When ac is plugged in the power light blink & notebook unresponsive
My ac post broke and i currently have the adapter spliced and soldered to the board.. but even before i Frankenstein'ed it in this fashion... the power light blink & notebook unresponsive when the ac is plugged in. it also wont charge my battery. when ac is not live.. the notebook works using battry power, but being the battery is LOW it shuts down after a few seconds. and plugging in ac causes it to overide battery power and shut down. ??????????????????????? HELP ME PLEASE...
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You want the AC adapter, not the charging unit. If there is sufficient undamaged cord, you can splice both the wires together and use the AC adapter.
Carefully identify the wires - one will have a raised rib or line printed on it. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation off each end of all wires. Matching the wire pairs, twist the stripped wires together. Fold the stripped wire back in line, and wrap the spliced wire connection with electrical tape. Do this for the other wire. Inspect you work to ensure the spliced wires are completely covered and do not touch each other. Wrap the entire spliced section in electrical tape and hook it up to the charging base.
Ebay has a selection of replacement ac chargers. Look on the back of the charging unit for the model number, and observe the voltage and current ratings.
You probably need a new one, you could try to get a replacement from casio or try to get an after marked one. They sell the adapters that have multiple ends and voltage settings, if you go this way you need to be careful. Look at the old adapter, you need to know how the voltage (Will probably be between 6 and 12) and the current which is measures in amps (A). Will probably look something like this:
9V ~ 2.5A
you need to make sure that the new adapter has the SAME voltage (V). Having a higher or lower voltage can and probably will damage the keyboard, so it is important that this is the same. As for the current (A) you do not need an adapter with the same number here, but it is a good idea to use the original number as a minimum. The current is the measurement of how much electricity the adapter can supply to the unit, if the number is too low, it could potentially damage the keyboard and the adapter, but if its higher there is no problem. And obviously you need the right end on your new adapter to fit your keyboard. Say you found a new adapter with the correct voltage and current but the wrong end, if you were ambitious you could cut the end of your old adapter and splice it on to your new one, however, as these adapters are supplying dc current you need to make sure you do not switch the polarity (positive and negative), if you do damage will may ensue. You will need a multimeter to check the polarity of the new adapter make sure you splice the right wires together. (you will need to know what the keyboard need, sometimes it is indicated on the back near where the power plugs in.
I am starting to ramble, if you do intend to get another adapter and splice I would be happy to help you the rest of the way, but i will end it here for now.
Condensation could occur on any surface that was cold and then exposed to moist warm air but to create that inside a set?
If the white deposit isn't really moist, it may be the residue from a circuit board that was poorly cleaned.
These are about 95% wave soldered on the underside and the solder has loads of flux floating on top of the solder to ensure a good flow of solder on leads and the board.
The flux can produce a white deposit if it isn't thoroughly removed in a solvent bath.
The component side of the board is mostly soldered via a 'reflow' method that reheats a tin/lead film on the component and the 'land' on which it is soldered. The amount of flux used in this process is quite small and rarely any flux survives even a lousy cleaning cycle.
I've seen a bunch of circuit boards and have occasionally seen traces of flux irregularly present on them but never enough to appear like a consistent film.
If you have a film or deposit surrounding individual components, especially capacitors, this can be caused by the loss of electrolyte from a failing capacitor and is a sign of coming (or already developed) problems. Once this chemical (which does leave white deposits) has leaked, the capacitor is shot and needs replacement.
The board with 200-100-SH700 on it may be the problem. I came up empty trying to find anything with that number, there should be some other number either ink-stamped on the board or on a paper sticker. Google can be your friend if you find the right number. Somewhere there may be someone with one of the same with a broken screen. Ebay?
You can find the broken piece on line to purchase,This can be repalced by soldering it to the motherboard.You will need to find someone to replace this probably a tv repair technician who is good at soldering small circiut boards.You can also purchase the motherboard and replace it
Motherboard is bad and will have to be replaced unless of course the AC Jack on the back of the laptop is loose. That would cause the ac adapter not to charge and then you would have to take the motherboard out and put solder on each leg on the bottom of the ac jack to make sure it stays in place then the ac adapter can charge the battery properly.
Even going thru the solder method the motherboard could still be bad and have nothing to do with the ac jack.