Channel 2 works without problem but, channel 1 doesn't work at all. Not a sound. Only suspicious thing is that the minute you turn the main power switch on the red clip limiter LED for channel 1 volume pot instantly comes on and stays on constantly regardless of where that volume pot is set. I have checked the rear micro switches to make sure that the amp is not bridged and have definitely isolated the problem to channel 1. Does the red clip limiter light coming on and staying on possibly indicate a direct short in the input stage somewhere or do you feel as though this is more likely an indication of say, an open power transistor in the final stage? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I live in the DFW area and would also appreciate a possible local repair reference if possible. Your time is greatly appreciated, Gregg Orange
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Re: QSC 2450 Power amplifier
I have a pyle pro 1000 watt max 2 channel mono and 2 channel stereo and when i get that thing loud the little red light cums on basically what i mean is that the amp on channel one is cooked i myself i wouldn't even use it y cause more damage
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My thoughts are that the amp has a poor channel separation but usually you can only hear a very quiet trace of the sound through the undriven channel. I agree with Taurus and make sure that the switch is making contact and moving all the pins to the proper points. This is a Home stereo amp, it comes with an extended 6 year warranty if you register it, I would check into getting a warranty repair before doing anything to it! Looks like a nice quality piece, those dip switches are a little bit confusing but the way it's built it is necessary to have them. It has a Dual Mono amp section so there is no way that any sound can be crossing over unless the swithches are directing it. The only way that can happen is in Parallel or in Mono. You could be in Stereo / Mono which would input both channels and output 3 settings a 1, 2 in Stereo & a Mono, Try hooking a speaker up to the Mono/ Bridge outputs and see if it's louder than just hooked up to 1 or 2. Parallel inputs will give you Mono 1 & 2 with Bridge off, and might give you Mono 1 & 2 with a bridged Mono if the bridge is on, like 3 channels all mono with one getting twice as much power as the 1 & 2 will put out. Although they have it labeled to not use it in those settings it's possible to do. I can see why you would be checking the switches. It may actually be labeled incorrectly , as strange as it seems, many Chinese products have been made with labeling errors. Plus and minus have been wrong on Asian Made car amps so it's not that inconceivable that this may have some incorrect settings shown?
Check speaker wiring. An amp final channel usually blows because of excessive draw from speakers. This often happens because one of the speaker is shorted inside or because of a wiring problem. Also ensure that speakers are responding to specifications. Speakers that are out of the amp Ohms range will do the same thing in a while.
Naturally you can also blow an amp final by pumping volume to the max for a while. The transistors or the STK ICs in the final section will overheat and blow.
Easiest way, get any old speaker 4 or 8 ohm and hook it up to channel 1 then plug an rca lead into channel 1, power up amp and touch finger on rca and you should hear pop or scratchy sound from speaker . Audio circuit for channel 1 is good . repeat for channels 2 3 4 .
Transfer Channel 2 speakers to Channel 1 to check if it does put out a sound. If it does, it means that your Channel 2 amplifier is defective. However, if it doesn't, then your Channel 2 speaker is defective. So, have this checked to find out the result. Defective items needs replacement or be repaired. Send us your e-mail for the result so we can further extend our assistance.
Its possible to repair, but you have to crack the amp open and prod around a bit. I found that the failure is usually in the power components or the MOSFET drivers. If you have 1 channel out, I would focus on the MOSFETS (if you dont know what they look like just Google MOSFET - they are the black 3-legged chips and are usually mounted to aluminum to disperse the heat). Some things to look for: - burnt / melted solder traces (where the MOSFETS connect to the main board) - disconnected leads (same place as above).
If you find any connection that looks suspicious, it wont hurt to re-melt the solder around the joint to make sure its a good connection.
Make sure your speaker wiring does not come close to the 12v power cable running for your amplifier. If your amplifier's 12v power cable runs on the drivers side of the vehicle, run your speaker cables on the passengers side and make sure your tweeters have a high pass filter to stop any pickup of engine sound (When you are driving you *WILL* notice it at high RPM. a HPF (High Pass Filter) will also stop those nasty hissing sounds on S's.