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Lanxar VW12D no sound after excess play

Running two 12 Lanxar DVC's in enclosed box. 4000 watt 286 VIBE amp. 2 ohm stable. Had voice coils bridged and amp bridged. Thinking this is 1 ohm load.? After losing one sub, removed subwoofers bridged on amp and ran as stereo. Switched 10 gauge wire, one sub plays with same wire, the other doesn't. I hear the scratching noise if I run the speaker wire over the terminal but nothing else. Sub doesn't even sound blown.
Left fuse was blown. Replaced. Same problem. Only thing I haven't done is replace the 60 amp fuse under the hood.
The other subwoofer works fine off the same channel as the one that didn't. Verified channels are fine. What else can I check?

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  • Dalynn Turner Apr 03, 2008

    Hazardsneon:



    "Sub doesn't even sound blown" aka: can't hear the cone unraveled; like the sound of someone shaking something; I guess is how you describe it.

    I read somewhere to hook the subwoofer up to a battery and it should pop if it is still good. I haven't had a chance to try it though. I do have a multimeter though. Not very fluent in it's use though.

    We are in a massive thunderstorm area, so it may be a couple days before I get to test the voice coils. Uggghhh...

  • Dalynn Turner Apr 06, 2008

    Hazardsneon:



    I was able to unlock the voice coil after tapping the + and - on the battery terminal. Later found out that both subs work. Yay! Further diagnosis, I found if I switched the RCA cables around on the RCA jacks the opposite channel on the amp would work. So looks like I have a ground wire on the RCA connector that has lost connection. Is there any way I can replace the connector. Can't afford 40 to $50 pair of RCA's LOL! Also I have two 4 ohm Dual Voice Coils. I believe my sub locked up when I was running the sub's at 1 ohm (could be wrong). I had sub's wired in parallel and bridged on amp. Amp is only 2 ohm stereo stable. Believe I burned RCA connector which caused 30 amp fuse on amp to blow... Am I correct?

  • Dalynn Turner Apr 11, 2008

    Hazardsneon:



    Hmmm..? I ran my subs in parallel and unbridged the amp. Not sure what the diff. is though.? I bought a pair of home audio Gold Series plated RCA's for $15. Sound great on amp! Radio Shack paid me $10 to take them off their shelf LOL! Hense... They were originally $25 ;) I didn't know you could hook up Home audio RCA's on car audio though. That's awesome!

    I thought I had blown the fuse... But I didn't *weird*. I replaced it, because I thought that's why the left channel wasn't working. The ground on the connector had burned, so I think the sub got locked up when the RCA connector fried. You know how you hook up the RCA's and the sub's start working. I was thinking along those lines. On to new problems. LOL! Now I don't have any sound on my EQ Pro Audio class. What Gives?!

  • Dalynn Turner Apr 14, 2008

    Andrew a.k.a. Hazardsneon:



    I have a American Pro Bass Machine Power Equalizer V.S. 1471 that I bought from a liquidation sale. Pretty standard spec's.



    7 BAND ACTIVE GRAPHIC EQUALIZER WITH VARIABLE SUBWOOFER/FADER CONTROL, 4 CHANNEL OUTPUT, 50W MAX POWER
    7 BAND PASSIVE EQ
    SUBWOOFER VARIABLE FREQUENCY CONTROL
    SUBWOOFER PRE-AMP LINE OUT
    SUBWOOFER LEVEL CONTROL
    4 SPEAKER HOOK-UP
    HIGH & LOW LEVEL INPUT
    DUAL LED LEVEL METER DISPLAY (R & L)
    FADER/VOLUME CONTROL
    POWER ON/OFF SWITCH
    BYPASS SWITCH
    HALF DIN MOUNTING
    DUAL COLOR FACE ILLUMINATION
    CD JACK INPUT



    Picture at:



    http://www.americanproaudio.com/accessor...



    Didn't see a gain on the back anywhere though.

    Let me make sure I'm getting this right. The low level input goes to the headunit. Output goes to the amp, right? I didn't get any sound from the amp preouts either on the EQ.

    I wasn't able to get power at first, because I had a bad ground. So I hooked it up straight to the battery and it lit up. So I went back and got it to power up with the headunit, now I don't even get a scratching noise from the 3-ways when connected to the EQ. I opened it up. Looks like I might have burned a resistor or transistor, ( I see a brown spot) but I don't understand the mechanics behind system boards. If you want I'll write a post so you can get credit for this. You can email me at computeranalyst@live.com if you would rather, but I definitely appreciate the help =)

  • Dalynn Turner Apr 14, 2008

    Hazardsneon:



    Any way you can make me a wiring diagram for a 4 ohm load? When I look at all the diagrams on the internet they don't show you how to wire it outside the box LOL!

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I'm not understanding what you mean by the "Sub doesn't even sound blown" if it doesn't play at all. One thing you can check is if you gently push in on the cone you shouldn't hear anything, if you hear a scratching noise and can feel resistance then you have a problem. If you have an OHM meter, you can check the voice coil impedance, it is a down and dirty way of checking to see if it is good or not. Measure all of the voice coils that you have and they should all read about the same, not necessarily exactly the same but pretty close. This test should tell you a lot. If it seems to test out fine there is something wrong else where. Let me know if you need more help.
-Andrew Hawkins

Posted on Apr 03, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Andrew Hawkins
    Andrew Hawkins Apr 04, 2008

    Well when you hook the speaker up to the battery. make sure you hold one wire on and only tap the other. Do not hold it on or you will probably wreck the sub. With the multimeter, just set it to OHMs and in the smallest OHM setting. Best of luck.
    -Andrew Hawkins

  • Andrew Hawkins
    Andrew Hawkins Apr 07, 2008

    In my experience I would say that the RCAs and the blown fuse are coincidental. To fix the RCAs you could go to a radio shack and they would have an RCA jack that you could solder on. Or, they do make relatively inexpensive new RCAs that are good quality. For the blown fuse, it was because you are presenting a 1 OHM load on a 2 OHM stable amp. What you need to do is wire each sub in series and then in parallel at the amp. So at each speaker you should have 8 OHMs then at the amp you will have 4 OHMs. Unfortunately, this is the best you could do with this amp/sub combination, with out blowing fuses or possibly the amp. Good luck man.
    -Andrew Hawkins

  • Andrew Hawkins
    Andrew Hawkins Apr 11, 2008

    I'm happy you got your system working again. I just looked at the specs on the amp and you will get the most out of it if you wire the voice coils in series, the subs in parallel and bridge the amp. The spec that told me was 1x4000 watts at 4 ohms bridged. The way you currently have it, you will get 2x1650 watts and 2 ohms. Believe me, in this case you would want to go in that direction. So, what is the exact model of the EQ? and what exactly does it do or not do? I remember one time I had an EQ that had an AUX input and I thought it was burned out, but I found out it had a gain on the back that was turned all the way down. Let me know.

    -Andrew Hawkins

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