Question about Kenmore 44102 Front Load Washer

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Water still trickles in after the entire wash cycle is completed

My unit model is Kennmore 417 411 4200 , and looks idential to the photo for the 44102, I will assume it is almost the same unit. My wash cycle completes and then water still trickles in. If I wait too long, it fill the entile machine. If I tunr off the water, it is fine ? I will guess there is some type of faulty value ? Any ideas ?
Thanks Phil Barry, Dunedin, Florida

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  • invecta18 Apr 02, 2008

    Is the a Pdf or similar with an exploded view ot the parts you mentioned in your solution. Or even better yet a repair manual available for this. I believe , being a Kennmore, it is most likely a Whirpool or other brand who makes it for Sears. Thanks

  • invecta18 Apr 03, 2008

    Is this the flow valve you are refering to. Rehttp://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/...


    I assume if water it leaking in, it has to be going through this value, and if it is working properly, it should shut off ? Right ?

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  • Master
  • 3,037 Answers

Check the flow meter first. The flow meter has a reed switch on the side of it. Sometimes this switch fails and doesn't respond to the magnetic wheel inside the flow switch. It is suppose to provide a pulse action as the wheel turns. The CCU interprets these pulses to determine flow rate. Just because the wheel inside the meter turns, does not necessarily mean the reed switch is functioning.

Posted on Apr 02, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Apr 02, 2008

    I'm
    assuming your washer is over the one year mark so I would also
    recommend running a cleaning cycle to dissolve any accumulations in the
    washer that may have caused this problem (where air tubing connects to
    the lower drum). Use Cascade Complete dishwashing detergent (I use .5
    cup of powdered version) and run the machine on the Sanitary Cycle.
    Smaller machines than ours can use slightly lessor amounts of the
    detergent. After operating the washer a few minutes to completely
    dissolve the detergent, pause the washer, open the door and swab down
    the complete bellows assembly including the hidden folds and adjoining
    areas where the bellows attaches to the drum. Go around the entire
    perimeter of the bellows and adjoining drum, concentrating between the
    8 & 4 o'clock positions where lint and debris collect the heaviest.
    Then throw a couple more rags in the machine to aid in splashing the
    solution and let the cycle complete. The enzymes will dissolve any
    bio-film or other build up that may have accumulated over time. Don't
    add any chlorine bleach to this cycle otherwise the bleach will destroy
    the enzymes. Make sure to also wear hand protection while doing this
    because the solution is harsh.
    This cleaning cycle is more
    important if you use mostly cold or low temp wash temperatures and/or
    tend to be skimpy with detergent dosing. To be on the safe side I
    complete this cleaning routine about once a year. I use at least a few
    Sanitary Cycles per month and also use the Stain Treat cycle often.
    Owners that don't, should run this routine more often. After nearly
    five years of use, my HE3t still remains spotless and sanitary.
    One
    last remark on the diagnosing of the pressure switch and flow meter.
    The pressure switch will normally trip its first set of contacts within
    about a minute or less of filling at the beginning of a wash phase (not
    rinse phase). Then the water solenoids will start increasing the water
    level in increments (Catalyst function). You can tell if the pressure
    switch is malfunctioning if there are no on and off cycles of the water
    solenoid valves during the initial fill phase. If the water enters in a
    constant manner without pauses, the pressure switch has not tripped
    it's first set of contacts. This pausing only occurs during pre-wash,
    auto-soak and wash phases. This is considered the "Catalyst" portion of
    the fill where concentrated detergent is gradually applyed and
    dissolved into the laundry for improved cleaning performance.
    At
    this point (if no pauses are detected), the tubing connected to the
    pressure switch should be checked for air leaks, disconnection or
    obstructions. If the Catalyst function is operating fine (water pulses
    on and off), the culprit of an HF error is normally a malfunctioning
    flow meter. A good indicator is substantially higher water levels than
    normal, provided the flow switch has tripped its first set of contacts.



  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Apr 02, 2008

    looking for one for you

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Apr 02, 2008

    try this website, let me know if it helps or not or whether you need something else

    http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_25.asp

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Apr 03, 2008

    yes and yes to your last questions

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