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Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Cold air goes down and especially hangs right around the area where the heat is removed (cold is generated). A fan exists which continually moves the air around in the chamber so that there will be no warm spots. Opening the door allows a spring loaded switch to move toward the opening which shuts the air circulating fan off so that cold air will not be blown out of the fridge or freezer while the door is open.
Depress the switch. Does it click? Some switches do not make an audible click. Can you hear the fan turn on? The switch is in the door jamb. The fan is behind the vent holes in the compartment.
It happens alot in my 18+ years i have seen them leak 1 day later to 30 or 40 years later.If it was running and not stoping and freezer and fridge warm or hot it may be a leak if it runs alot and freezer is cold and fridge warm then it is not a freon leak.
We had the same issues with the water freezing and called a technician out. He added some extra insulation installed around the water lines inside the refrigerator and we also keep our frig at 40 degrees Fahrenheit, slightly above the manufacturers default setting. Hope this helps.
It happenedn to my performa fridge just yesterday. It was bought in 2005. Now there is humming and clicking sound from the lower back side once in a while and the fridge is not cold. the compressor is hot/warm and it seems to be where the noise is coming from.
We had a warm fridge and super cold freezer.....we unplugged for about 20 minutes and the fridge started to cool down again.... but only for a few days then back to warm.
We ended up unplugging and "defrosting" the whole unit for 24+ hours ....Now it works perfectly again.
I think it happens when one or both of the doors is not shut or sealed all the way and engine works too hard and "freezes" up the fans or some other part of the system.......I am just happy I did not have to buy a new fridge.
Actually this seems about right. The air flow in the fridge is usually from the back top of the fridge. That will be the cold spot then the air sinks down to the bottom and then recycles back into the freezer comp. to get cold again. Door shelf is usually warmer than the rest. As with most units, it takes some understanding of the air circulation pattern in order to find the sweet spots for dairy products and meat, veggies, etc. Check to see if there are slider adjustments on the drawers for temp or humidity, etc. Also make sure there are not parts missing from the inside of the fridge. Sometime a part that appears to only be a small plastic item gets broken over time and never replaced when it could actually be very important to air circulation. I recommend getting a small floating aquarium thermometer and setting it in a glass of water in order to get the "true" temp. of the products not just the air temp of the fridge. Put the glass in different locations over a weeks period to record what the temps are like in different areas of the fridge so you can make a "map" of the cold spots, etc. Leave the thermometer in for about 12 hours before you record the temps for that location. I think you will find the answers you need in order to place your food more effieciently in the fridge.
As for summer days, the unit will have to work harder in warm weather to cool than it does in the winter months of course but there is always a concern that you are not cooling 100%. The way to check that is to let the unit run for several hours (turn the temps down so it runs for at least an hour solid) then you would have to pull the whole interior rear freezer panel off the back to view the cooling coils and make sure they are fully frosted across the whole coil surface. If they are iced up only in a few inches of coils then you likely have leaked out the liquid refrigerant over the years and there's not enough to cool a full 100% of its capacity.
And your complaints are the same with even brand new models... it's about 60% of our service calls (not cooling properly or freezing food).
Couple things, both doing with air flow. If the fan in the lower freezer isn't working there will be no cold air moved into the upper fridge. If the defrost cycle happens to be dead then the coils down there will freeze solid and there can be no air flow over them to cool the upper area. You'll have to pull the lower drawer out and take off the interior rear panel to check these things. Hopefully it's just that the fan motor went out. It's real easy to change. Let me know what you find, if the coil is all iced up solid then there's more things you need to look into.