Question about KitchenAid KAWS850L Dryer

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Dryer doesn't heat.

KitchenAid Prestige electric dryer. 10 years old. Everything works but it doesn't heat. I cleared out the lint in the vent going outside and took off the dryer vent and made sure it was clear and re-attached. The lint sceen is clean and clear. The heat setting lights on the front of the dryer are on.

Help.

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THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS YOUR POWER. THE OUTLET HAS TWO ANGLED HOLES THAT SHOULD TOTAL 240VOLTS ACROSS THEM. THE L SHAPED HOLE IS THE GROUND AND THERE SHOULD BE 120VOLTS FROM EACH ANGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE. THE DRYER'S MOTOR ONLY RUNS ON 120 VOLTS ( FROM ONE ANLGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE). THE HEATING ELEMENT CIRCUIT RUNS FROM ONE ANGLED HOLE TO THE OTHER(240VOLTS)
THE DRYER WILL RUN BUT NOT HEAT WITH ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED.

IF POWER IS O.K., THE NEXT THING TO DO IS PULL THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER. THE HEAT ELEMENT IS IN A BOX ON THE RIGHT SIDE WITH TWO RED WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. IF YOU HAVE A METER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HEATER. IF YOU HAVE
240VOLTS THERE, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, THE ROUND ITEM NEAR THE BOTTOM IS A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT. IF YOU HAVE 240VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS ON THE THERMOSTAT, IT IS BAD. PART #
279769 COMES WITH THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL FUSE FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE THE SAME WAY.
IF IT IS BAD, YOU WILL SEE 240VOLTS ACROSS IT.

IF ALL THOSE COMPONENTS ARE GOOD, IT COULD BE THE TIMER, TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH, OR THE MOTOR'S CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH. YOU WOULD HAVE TO READ THE WIRING DIAGRAM INSIDE THE CONTROL PANEL TO CHECK THOSE ITEMS.

Posted on Apr 03, 2008

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In the above solution "dryer doesn't heat", I believe the dryer needs to be running in order for current to be sent to these components to be tested, so be careful. 240 volts is nothing to fool around with. Probably not for a cluts, someone with a pacemaker or other heart problems in case you slip and shock yourself. Make sure your control settings are in a mode that heats and not in cool down or air dry. There is also another fuse link to check that is white, about a 1/4" wide and 1.25" long, towards the bottom, between the heater and fan, attached by one screw. With the dryer off, it can be checked for continuity using an ohm meter set on 1 ohm or next highest setting if you don't have one ohm on yours. When its cool, disconnect the wire leads and test. Zero ohms means its good, there is no resistance and its conducting current.

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

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