Does not always come on. When it does, has silver lines running up and down and sound usually comes on, then goes right back off. Makes crackling and popping sounds with a loud hum. Also, loud static sounds. Also, the logo that appears when the tv is turned on is not readable.
The power supply in this model was terrible about having bad capacitors. The bad capacitors in this unit will have the top of teh can bowed out and browned. A qualified technician should be able to repair or replace the power supply.
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you will have 2 lines at the tank. 1 is the supply line with one end having the fuel filter on it and sitting at the bottom of the tank. it generally runs to the inlet side of the carb. the output side of the carb usually goes to the primer bulb inlet, the last hose usually goes from the outlet of the primer bulb back to the fuel tank but only goes in 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. it should only be in far enough to seal the hole and allow the fuel back in to the tank
that silver box is called TV tuner (see picture ) ............ but in your case that is not the problem ......... after 4 or 5 yrs (depending on usuage ) in some TVs on mainboard & CRT tube's circuit board at some soldering joints cracks develops ... then due to loose contact TV behaves as you have described ........ when you are hitting that lightly on its side then these cracks at soldering joints are getting connected temporarly & for few seconds or minutes you are getting normal picture ....... so solution is most of the soldering joints on mainboard & on CRT circuit board has to be resoldered ....... only good tv service engineer can do this without shorting joints or damaging components..... so that silver box ( TV tuner ) is not the problem because when it gets deffective then you will get picture that comes when tv is switched on ---- usually it will be blue screen ......& also if you connect dvd you will get picture normally ...only thing is that you won't get picture from cable or antenna ..............
Your power supply board is dead, u know basic electronics' and soldering? Most of the times, the power supply board just have dead leakages gases capacitors.These capacitors always bulges up on it top,or puff up on it top.Replaced these gases leakages capacitors will get your TV power stable,and work again.Or tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a whole refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
Hoping this will help in solving the problem...
The usual cause is a shorted horizontal output transistor. The way this chassis is designed, the supply makes 140 volts which is always on and applied to the transistor. The heavy load on the power supply causes it to make that chirping sound as it keeps trying to start, then shuts down right away.
The h-out is Q14401, RCA part number 237470. A 2SC5148 can replace it.
You need to check the output voltages of the power supply to see which one goes off. It may be due to short circuits some where.If otherwise, power supply board is dead, do you know basic electronics' and soldering? Most of the times, the power supply board just have dead leakages gases capacitors.These capacitors always bulges up on it top,or puff up on it top.Replaced these gases leakages capacitors will get your TV power stable,and work again.Or tries websites like Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a whole refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
nothing else ie no display, no lights if so dead main board no be economical for repair
if it has display ok then there is paper stuck, take out back door, check there..
also with the power off, check inside right up inside against far left and right walls of unit, paper gets stuck inside and then the bit that moves up and down along the silver bar(carriage and print head) slams the paper up against the wall. You need to reach in with two fingers and get it.
These models usually suffer from a bad color wheel. You will know that the color wheel is at fault if the sounds goes away right when the lamp shuts off. Look at the back of the set and watch for the lamp to shut down. The color wheel is not a consumer replaceable item.
The most common problem (I have fixed lots) is the Vertical amplifier has developed a loose connection. It probably just needs resoldering. As things expand it makes and looses connection you picture goes in and out. The vertical chip is a large black chip that gets hot, over time it degrades the solder until a connection is damaged. Most newer sets have a protection circuit that senses the lack of height, and shuts down the picture tube to save it. When the picture dropped to a line on older TVs and left that way too long it would burn a line into the face of the picture tube. You then had to have the picture tube replaced along with the vertical amp. it's kinda like a screensaver for your TV.