Washer leak at the bottom of door on left & right side at initial start of wash arm rotation after filling with water. If stopped & restarted by opening door it only leaks a drop if any. I replaced the Tub 3 sided gasket (left, top &right side), that didn't do anything. The door seems to close tightly on new gasket.
Thank for any help.
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I had the same problem I own a Kenmore Elite dishwasher. Diverter motor needs to be replaced. The diverter motor is connected to a plate that controls the flow of water to each washer arm. When the plate moves it has holes that align to the proper tube that supplies water to a washer arm. When the diverter motor is broken it is unable to rotate and cannot direct flow of water. When this happens water will only be able to come out of one spray arm in my case the back sprayer or turbo wash. The diverter motor is located under the dish washer and the diverter plate is located under the bottom sprayer arm.
does it leak all the time or did it just start?try running it with nothing in it and see if it leaks,if the dishes were racked wrong the water can get deflected and leak out through the door,also,remove the bottom rack,look at the screws going around the bottom part under the wash arm,if any of those are loose it causes a wave in the dish washer and the water leaks from under the door.if it's leaking from one of the corners the gasket could be bad
The center spray arm may not be turning straight and level, causing water to spray over the top of the splash shield. The shield needs to be adjusted to block water as it is sprayed from the center arm.
1. Remove the bottom door seal and reinstall, making sure there is not less than 3/8 inch of seal showing below bottom of internal door panel before closing the door.
2. Check tub seal, at the bottom the tub, seal makes a right angle and points to front of tub. In tub bottom there is a block molded in the tub, the tub seal is to fill this block but not extend over.
3. Select the shortest wash cycle or just use a rinse and hold cycle if available. Run the cycle, making sure the water spray changes from bottom to center not less than twice before making any adjustments.
4. If splash over is found, work only one side at a time. Remove black door seal enough to raise the splash shield up off the bottom of the tub not more than 1/8 inch and reinstall door seal properly. Retry and check for leaks.
5. If leak persists, remove door seal again. This time raise shield an additional 1/16 of an inch, then reinstall tub seal. After the first adjustment of 1/8 inch, any other adjustments will be no more than 1/16 inch at a time.
6. After splash over is stopped on one side go to the opposite side if needed.
It does sound like an inner door seal ,however If you get upset at Sears and complain they may help you as they say the squeaky hinge gets the oil..And with Sears the more you squeak the better your chances of results ...Good Luck
Sounds like you're talking about the fill hose. If so, it connects to an open fitting on the left side of the tub. It should have very little pressure on it and only when the machine is filling. A clamp there is not usually necessary. You can put a clamp on it if you want, but if it's leaking there you probably have another issue. make sure that the inlet thru the side of the tub is clear and free of build-up or debris. Make sure the fill valve is mounted in it's proper position and the hose has no tight bends/kinks in it. If it leaks when the machine is "washing", not filling then you may have an issue with a bent/warped bottom wash arm or the tub inlet may be cracked or separated from the tub (unusual) but would need more detail to say for sure.
After further inspection of my dishwasher I found a bad gasket under the lower wash arm. Over the years it finally gave up and was shooting a torrent of water through the water in the bottom of the wash tub. When all that water hit the door liner it went up into the lower door vents, into to wire harness, and onto the floor.
1. make sure dishwasher is level front to back and side to side.
2. check the main washer arm (WD22X154) on the bottom side for leaks. If you use heated dry, the heating elements can cause the part of the spray arm directly over it to soften and eventually leak. When water comes out that leak it can spray at the bottom of the door, splashing water inside it and resulting in your leak.
3. if 1 and 2 OK, watch how you load the lower rack. If dishes or a bowl direct water from the lower wash arm to spray against the bottom of the door, especially at the center of the door bottom, the resulting splash inside the door allows water to hit the outer door panel and drip out a one or both corners of the door.
You said, water splashing over tub into door panel. It leaks with or without
being loaded with dishes. You checked the lower wash arm but found no visible cracks or breaks. The leaking water is clear not soapy.
What is the brand and model number? And how old is it???
There are a couple reasons water may be leaking out the door of a dishwasher. 1. The water is most likely coming out the bottom of the door where there is no rubber seal. 2. The rubber seal is around the door jam on top and both sides and not on the bottom. This means if the dishwasher has to much detergent in it the soap suds push only the water higher than the front edge of the wash basin and out the bottom of the door where there is no seal! 3. Fill only the soap cup that can close for the secondary wash. The open cup is a pre-wash and mostly not needed unless the food is baked on.This just wastes money to fill both of them every time. 4. And if you are using liquid detergent you only need half the amount from the powdered soap! try less soap. Remember to much soap too can cause the water overflow. 5. And the last would be that the drain is clogged and caused a back up large or small and then the overflow! is there water in the bottom when the wash is done? Soap is usually the culprit, not that there can't be a leak in an old drain or water supply hose! Go with the soap idea first!
Let me know how you are! How old is the washer ?
Please remember to leave a rating before you go! Thank You ,Huuum
Here is an interesting report I just read!!!!!!!!!!
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old washer
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model? The answer depends mostly on the age of your washer, how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your washer is under warranty or less than four years old , paying for a repair makes sense. Note that washers under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician; readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your washer is out of warranty and is four to seven years old, it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair. But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage, given that today's models have added features. Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008, are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new washer. Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive washer eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent of washers you replace are likely to end up in a landfill. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help! Please do not forget to give a rating before you sign off!