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Water in the drum anytime after drying a load of clothes is not normal.
Was the load prior to you having found the condensation fully dried? If not, check for lint in the vent system and make sure that air is coming out of the vent (the flap or louvers on the vent cap should open fully on a short vent line). Even so, this would not account for a small amount of standing water in the drum.
The first thing that came to mind was outside air being drawn in through the vent. If you have air conditioning and a well-sealed house, the warm, moist air hitting the cool drum (in a relatively dry atmosphere) may cause condensation. Check the outside vent to ensure that the vent cap flap (or louvers) is (are) closing all the way. Convection or air flow from the basement to a vent fan in an upper level might cause this.
Most of the time this problem is attributed to a blocked or more precisely, a partially blocked dryer vent system. When a dryer vent is blocked it stops the air flow and the heat backs up into the dryer turning the heat sensors on and off prematurely taking longer for the clothes to dry. Over time this may cause the heat overload fuse to blow and you will have no heat at all.
First take a look at the dryers ducting between the dryer and the wall to make sure the vent duct (normally a flexible style) has not been crushed or kinked.
If the dryer duct to the wall is in good shape then in most cases there is a blockage some where between the wall where the ducting connects to the vent and where it exhausts outside.
The major cause of a blocked dryer duct occurs when the water in the clothes is heated to a high temperature and turned into steam, which is then exhausted out the back of the dryer to outside. As the steam cools on its journey and gets closer to the outside of the house, it tends to get cooler and turns back into water droplets. This is going to be the point where the dried lint, as it escapes past the lint filter, sticks to the newly formed water drops and starts a gradual chocking down of the 4" diameter vent to 3",2",1" and finally stops all flow of air.
Remember, the dryer is designed to exhaust so many cfm's and the more choked the vent the more heat is backed up into the dryer.
If you cannot access the dryer ducting, because it is in the wall or ceiling, to look for the obstruction, then look in the yellow pages or contact the local appliance repair service company and get the name for a good duct cleaning company.
It would be best in your circumstance to slope your vent like one might slope a drain. 35 feet is waaaaay too long, 20 feet is max, and you can deduct 6 feet for every bend. If you can reconfigure your vent to a sloped drain, this will help.
The coolness of the basement is a contributing factor, but normally, it doesn't figure into the issue.
If you cannot shorten your run, or slope your line, you might do well with a trap that would have a mini sump pump in it. These are available from A/C companies, and are automatic in their operation. I have had one in one of my units, and the cost wasn't unreasonable. You can probably find one on-line (EBay?)
Venting into the basement may resolve your water issue, but you still have to deal with the lint that "escapes" the lint trap. Most of it will likely wind up in the air conditioner, and all over whatever you have in your basement.
A mini sump sounds like your best option, even if you have to set up a schedule to clean it out occasionally.
Best regards, --W/D--
I think your vent has lint in the line between the wall and the outside of your house not allowing the moisture to get out
1 when the dryer is running go outside and observe the vent to see if hot air is coming out
2 Turn dryer off, disconnect electric from wall
3 pull dryer out from wall
4 take a nut driver or screw and remove the clamp that attaches the flex vent pipe to the wall
4 Also remove the flex pipe from the dryer
5 Inspect inside vent connection inside dryer for any trapped lint
6 inspect inside flex line for any lint
7 Look inside wall vent for lint you can also reach in with your hand to feel for lint
8 If you have a leaf blower or can borrow one(electric is best) from your neighbor put the snout of the blower into the vent going into the wall seal the area between the snout and the vent pipe at the wall ( i use duct tape you can use wash clothes rags etc
9 start blower and blow any lint in the line out through outside THIS WILL CLEAR THE LINT
10 Reattach the flex to the wall vent and dryer , plug in. run a load and you should be back in business
Many home improvement stores such as Home Depot , Lowes etc carry Vent kits. I would encourage you to pick up one of these and install it through your outside wall. Normally, the outside portion of the vent has a flapper to keep outside air and critters from coming into your house when that vent is not in use and also has a short section of ( typically) 4 inch vent line that projects through the wall cavity and into the living space. Most flex lines should be atteched to that. If you are usintg a gas dryer, it is strongly encouraged and may be code requirements in some areas to use only solid ducting to the outside. Electric Dryers do not have the same exhaust gases and can be ducted with a plastic flex line. Hope that helps...
you need to first find out the best method of running your gas line to the location of your dryer..Make sure you also run a vent hose to dryer to the outside of your house, make sure you have 120 volt outlet, i would also run a 220 line as well just in case you need 220...
if the cloths are warm and wet the problem is not with the dryer but in the venting. check the air flow at the end of the line (where the exhaust leaves the building) if the air baffels are not fully opening when the drier is on there is probably an issue with the venting. remember to tape up the venting joints after inspecting it because it is also the exhaust for the gas. hope this helps.