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Car Alternator, 2004 Citi Golf

  • We need to learn how we can connect to the alternator to have a continuous supply of current from the alternator while the engine is running?
  • How do we bypass the regulator?
  • In other words, we need two sources of power from the alternator, one to provide continuous power, two, power to the battery which will stil cut out when the battery is full.
  • Can you help please?
Martin Steyn

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First off, I am curious as to what you need those particular power sources for. Also from my experience regulators don't actually cut out when the battery is full. It actually just stops the amount of voltage at a certain point, in this case 14.4 volts, and stays steady at that fixed voltage. A helpful page could be I think it explains alternators very well. It might not be exactly what you are looking for but I hope it helps. Let me know how it goes.
-Andrew Hawkins

Posted on Apr 02, 2008

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Ok fuses hmm maybe the wrong size amp but what is sucking the life out of the alterneter

Your fuses have nothing to do with current draw, all they do is keep the wire that they are in line with from melting and starting your car on fire! The problem you have is the same as all the rest of the people who do not plan out their car stereo system. Your stock alternator is made to keep your battery charged while you drive it, with very little extra power needed for the power windows and AC. Most cars have a 80 to 110 amp output alternator, but that's not a continuous draw either. That is a top output while it's recharging things it will get super hot after a while of high output and will burn up the diodes in the regulator eventually. If you have a 100 amp alternator and it has 30 amps of power left over after charging the battery and running your AC it certainly will not be able to power up an amp that has a draw of 60 amps or more. Your alternator never has a chance to catch up to normal charging of your battery even. You'll find your battery will last about 1/2 of the rated life from never getting charged full ever, your alternator will die every summer and your amp will be another one of those that are stacked up on my work bench in need of parts due to burned up power mosfetts from under voltage and over amperage on the rails of your overdriven amp. You will be doing the same as the last ten others with this same problem, you will be shopping for a new HO alternator, new Battery and a new Amp but will not be doing this until after all these things have been replaced 2 or more times. Then you will remember this post I wrote for you telling you that these things need to be done first, before even getting started on building a system. Once you realize the cost of the entire project you would probably start thinking about getting components that will be drawing less current and not have to be replacing everything along the way. It took me 10 years of working with12 volt systems to come to this conclusion and the last 25 years trying to get others to understand the cost involved to do it right.

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2 Answers

Can you hook your amp straight to your alternator with no problems

Hi TW,
Please ignore the post here by 79 as anything but fiction.

An alternator produces DC current not AC. It does however fluctuate quite a bit. It's the low voltages that will stop your amp from functioning.

Whether you connect your amp to your alternator or your battery doesn't matter. They are connected to each other already. The battery stabilizes the current to your amp. When the amp requires more than the alt can supply, the battery fills in.

Personally, the battery is easier to connect to.

Best regards

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Ok, if it only happens when the engine is running and the noise changes with the gas, that's alternator whine. Alternator whine is caused by the ambient noise in the voltage which is produced by the alternator. Alternators don't make DC current, they make AC current. The AC current is then converted to DC current and then sent to the rest of the car. The noise comes from an imperfect conversion from AC to DC. That noise travels down the power cable to the amp and causes noise in your speakers. This is often called "dirty power". Dirty power can be variations in voltage, inconsistent current, or noise within the voltage. One of the simplest ways to clean up noise in a car stereo system is to use capacitors. If you add a capacitor to your system just before the amplifier's power cable, it will help filter out the noise from the alternator. Start with 1/2 Farad or 1 Farad. That should be plenty to clean up the noise. The capacitors will also have a positive effect on your amplifier's thermal and sound performance, but you may not notice it.

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The fuse in the red wire that connects to the battery blows everytime i connect the negative and positive up 2 my battery. it blows when i dont even have the red chord hooked up 2 the amp. whats the...

Hello super11dt,

Sounds like the power and ground wire are shorting. Check the power wire with a multimeter. Sometimes, the insulation gets rubbed off and it contacts the vehicle metal causing a short. The solution is to pull a new wire and install a grommet or bushing wherever it goes through the firewall.

Actually, the negative (ground) wire should not be run to the battery at all. It should be secured to the metal of the vehicle as close to the amp as you can get, preferably within about 3 feet.

Hope this helps.

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Your current alternator is strained and cannot give the required current draw of your amp. Most aftermarket amps have exterior fuses. Try adding these up for a round-about current draw number. I would bet that your amp is killing the availible power from the electrical charging system of your car. You could always go up to a higher fuse, (I run a 200 amp breaker) bu this will only make your stereo work and your alternator fail prematurely. Try searching ebay or go to ohio generator for a stronger output alternator.

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My orion d5000 cuts out at high voloume for a few seconds then comes back on ????? why

Hello m3_sam,

You did not say what you have the amp wired to and what impedance. Since the amp produces more power at a lower impedance, it does make a difference.

At 4 ohms, the HCCA-D5000 delivers 1000 watts RMS. The higher the volume, the more the amp needs to draw from the battery.

Assuming everything is installed according to specifications, especially the dual 4AWG power and ground connections, it's likely that your vehicle battery/alternator is simpy not able to keep up with the current demand of the amp at high volume. You should probably consider upgrading your vehicle alternator and/or battery. In addition, consider a "Big Three" upgrade. This involves replacing or supplementing the battery positive, vehicle negative, and alternator cables to ones of larger gauge that will allow more current flow. Installation of a capacitor could possible solve the problem, but with the current demands of your amp, I wouldn't count on it.

Hope this helps.

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Keep in mind the input current to the amp is not continuous. Yes, the fuses on the 3501 are rated at 2x30A, but that means that at any one time, if the peak current goes above 60A, (theoretically) a fuse should blow. But in reality, the amp will draw much less current than that under normal operation. Even by adding the 300/4 to the mix, in my opinion, you will be ok.

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Go by the fuse rating on the amplifier as a default. i.e. - If on amp has a 40 amp fuse on the outside and another has a 30 amp fuse on the outside, then you need to supply at least 70 amps of current. the formula works like this: amps X volts = watts. Doing the math here, for an amp to produce 1000w of power @ your vehicle's 12v power, you need 83 amps of current. Most cars produce 14v from the alternator when running, so this is really only needing 71 amps. Make sure your car's alternator can supply the excess current when running. Most modern amplifiers are efficient enough to produce their wattage with even less current than that.

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Your battery is probably not able to supply the current needed to power the amp and your alternator is not supplying enough charging current when idling. Check these two and the wiring to the amp.
Should be some sort of decent stranded copper wiring able to handle the power consumption of the amp. When you have access to a multimeter do check the voltage at the amps 12 volt power leads and when this is below 12 volt when idling I would suspect wiring and/or alternator/battery.

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