I am experiencing this flap/display freakout, and I went to the page w/ the DIY fix
I'm not doing the whole repair, but I did nick his tip to remove the left plastic door hinge cover and disconnect the wires. Made it stop while I booked repair.
One other note: be sure to empty out your ice tray if this happens; the time that the flap spent opening and closing likely melted your ice. If it re-freezes around the corkscrew dispenser, I think that would be trouble.
Very common, this unit was mfg by samsung for ge and maytag. Its your hi voltage control board located on the back. You might call maytag and see if they will pick up the costs for this repair. There was recently a major rework kit for the samsung and ge units, but maytag opted not to follow the same. Call them and raise heck and let them know your food costs that spoiled and that your afraid to touch it because of the actions of this ele problem.. G luck
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The, 'Red' light is a infra red light. This light assembly on the right hand side of your freezer is the transmitter.
Directly across is the receiver. On the receiver is a spring loaded plastic flapper.
This is a safety device for your ice maker. When the freezer door is closed, the flapper is closed, allowing the infra red transmitter to complete the signal to the receiver. This allows the ice maker to discharge ice cubes. When the door is open the signal is broken, the flapper springs out blocking the circuit signal, and the ice maker will not discharge ice cubes.
There is a On/Off switch on the red transmitter. I do not know why you would want to turn it off. If you turn it off and the transmitter stays on then you have to replace both the transmitter and receiver.
The water is door spigot can be freezing up if the ice door is stuck open. When you actuate your ice in door function you hear a solenoid CLICK. That solenoid is supposed to open the ice door flapper. If the flapper is not funtioning correctly (stuck open) then in as few as as 2 - 3 days your water in door can freeze again. If you want unit specific information we need your make and model number to better help you.
The most common problem with this is the door/flapper is not closing snuggly. Usually a piece of ice holds it open but if this is happening all the time make sure the little ice door/flapper is closing all the way open the door and push it open and see how it is closing. If there is not water freezing on the left side of the freezer under the icemaker its self you have to have air getting into the freezer and usually its the ice door. good luck
It sounds like your crushed ice flapper might be stuck.
Open the freezer and remove the ice bin by pulling toward you. Dump the ice into a container if you wish to save it.
Turn the bin upside down and look at the opening in the front that the ice drops out. There is a white flapper door that is controlled by a metal rod going all the way to the back of the ice bin. If you move the metal arm up and down from the back you should see the flapper door open and close. Open is for cubed ice and closed causes the cubes to travel through the blades and be crushed.
The most common failure is ice or frost build up around the flapper door that causes it to stick shut and not move to the open or cubed position. You can unthaw by running warm water through it in the sink. Dry completely before returning it to the freezer. Clean out any ice chunks from the chute in the door that might be slowing down ice. That should fix the problem.
The light is switched on and off by a small lever which is pushed when closing or opening the door. This operates a microswitch. It would not make any grinding noise. Grinding noise can come from the fanmotor which would also stop when the fridge door is open.
Your product is an IDI (In Door Ice the bucket is in the door) or a Non-IDI? By the way, you mention the Ice maker. The thing is that if the ice maker is not runnning then you don't have ice to dispense and obviously the fact that the motor is working or not is irrelevant. So that's why I suppose that the problem is not the ice maker but the trajectory of the cubes from the bucket to outside of the door.
In the Non-IDI sometimes it happens that the safes in the bucket jump the locks were the bucket resides so the auger motor (the one that move the shaft so you get the Ice) is still running but you can't get ice because the bucket is not in the right position. Just try to relocate the bucket.
You can see if the motor is moving the shaft pressing the light switch that is at the top of the freezer. Then dispense, when you press the switch the main board thinks that the door is closed so you can dispense and see if the motor is moving the shaft.
Other failure mode is the flapper door, it depends if the dispenser works with full electronics or if it's an electromechanical dispenser. Full electronics dispenser use a stepper motor to move the flapper door so the failure is that when you press the pad and the flapper door is closing, if you press it again then it get stucked, the motor dispense but the flapper door is closed. With electromechanical dispenser, maybe is the dashpot mechanism.
If any of these solutions couldn't fix your problem please tell me. I think that I can solve this particular problem.
It is possible that the solenoid wire connections may have come loose. You will have to pop off the front cover of the display panel to gain access to the solenoid. To remove the panel, look below the bottom of the panel to find 2 screwdriver holes. Slide a screwdriver in one of them and gently pry open the panel.
Sounds like you need a new display pwb. The flapper for the ice works on a solenoid which is on a little board that is behind the display board. When the power is cut the flapper should close as it is on a spring. I don't believe that there is any worries of it catching fire. Have a tech come and replace the board for you.