Question about Breville Die Cast 800ESXL Espresso Machine

1 Answer

Unit does not power up.

I read your solutions on this issue and surely the resistor was bad but as I replaced it, I damaged the circuit bord and now need to replace the complete board. I need help to locate a circuit bord for my machine.


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  • jayrv Jun 04, 2008

    unit will not power up. is there a fuse or breaker inside machine?



  • Anonymous Jun 04, 2008

    Made sure the unit was plugged into a receptical that had an output of 120 volts. This part is OK.

    Is it possible to get access to the parts manual for this unit so that if in fact I have a bad resistor, I will know the replacement part number?

    I also would like to make sure that I have a clue as to the easiest way to remove the correct cover etc. so that I don't do unnecessary removale of covers etc.



  • Anonymous Jun 08, 2008

    i had a similar problem and solved by info here (cant find the post now). the machine was not powering on at all- totally dead. i saw a solution to replace the zener diode no 6 (24v 1 w) ladeled ZD6 next to two capacitors on the PC board and that did the trick. working as new now. thanks for the help.

  • Anonymous Jun 25, 2008

    Unit will not power up at all, it works yesterday.

  • Anonymous Jun 28, 2008

    The Unit doesn't power up. It was

  • peyton278 Jun 29, 2008

    I have the same day - no power - totally dead. Where do I get these parts? How do I install them? Can someone help me do this or is it easy for a laywoman?

    Thanks for your help!


  • heida Jul 16, 2008

    When you press the Steam Button it no longer responds to touch and cannot be turned on to start steam process. Other functions are OK. We were told by Breville to take it to a repair guy in Honolulu to fix. They sat on it for months and finally said they could not get a replacement part. We had to pick the machine up. Now Breville longer responds to our e-mails sent asking what we should do next since the repairman they sent us to was unable to fix the problem even though they initially said they could. rmly



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Posted on Apr 02, 2008


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Heater blower motor quit...need to find ground for resistor

I suggest you find your fuse/ relay center check fuses and try new relay, I think the relay is 75% at fault most of the time.
Blazerk from Altima forum suggest
Back probe the blower motor Blue/Yellow circuit and tap it to ground, if that doesn't make the blower operate, the blower motor/power transistor assembly is bad. When the blower motor does operate while grounding that circuit, the climate control panel may be faulty, repeat the test from the connector at the control panel to verify the wiring is not damaged. Also, When verifying voltage, Use the power and ground wires to the blower motor. Other grounds may give you faulty readings.
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How can you check if a resister is bad

I use the ohmmeter function on my digital multimeter (DMM). You can get a basic DMM from Sears or Radio Shack for about $30.

First, (safety check) measure the voltage across the terminals unless you know there is no power in the circuit, or better yet, disconnect the resistor so other components don't give you a false reading. Attempting to read the value of a resistor in a live circuit will give you a meaningless number at best, and may severely damage your meter at worst. It could also damage other parts in the circuit.

Now switch your meter to the lowest ? range (Greek capital Omega, for Ohm) greater than the expected value of the resistor. Connect one test lead to each end of the resistor. The number you read should be the expected value plus or minus the tolerance (e. g., a 100 ? 5% resistor should read somewhere between 95.0 - 105.0 on the 200 ? range.). A bad resistor will usually show up as 1___ (over-range) because it will be burned out and open. Some very old carbon composition resistors will short (read much less than 1 ?) when they fail.

Often, a visual inspection will identify a bad resistor - if you can see that it's burned and broken, it's bad and further testing is unnecessary. The ohmmeter is for all the other cases.

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Got a 5000 euro power the output module has gone i think as it turns of after 2 seconds can you get a replacement part copy

I had to repair mine. An arc had occured between circuit traces and a heatsink in the power amp and that took out a half dozen transistors, a switching regulator chip, two power resistors, diodes. The parts are all available BUT you must be very careful to weed out ALL the bad ones.

AFTER repair, put a 150 wat light bulb in series when powering up to avoid damage IF there still is a bad component in the circuit.

After cutting out the damaged board and replacing the parts it is all working again.

I had to trace out some of the circuit to troubleshoot as Behringer won't give out schematics.

The amplifier in this is a class "D" switching type. Be very careful of running the unit if the speakers are not connected.

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Blown fuse and replaced it and burned the amp

BIG problem! You should NOT have replaced the fuse as additional damage has been done. I repaired a PMP5000 and I can tell you likely what you will find: The smoke and smell came from two power resistors that are part of the soft start circuit that now are toast. You will likely find several components in the main portion of the power supply that are toast. These will include transistors, resistors, diodes, and probably the small 8 pin switching regulator chip. There is a small power supply that comes on first which enables a relay that shorts out those soft start resistors AFTER the power amplifier BALANCES and normalizes.
The unit I repaired had severe damage due to arc-over at one power amp section. Three power transistors were destroyed there and board traces and charring had to be handled in that section.
The repaired unit had to be brought up with a light bulb in series with the line power cord to prevent further damage until all bad parts were discovered and repaired. You will need to take the unit to a shop that is expperienced with the product. The repair cost MAY be pretty high.

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Durango vent blower fan

The blower motor resistors are known for going bad. Usually its because the blower starts drawing too much current. What I would recommend doing if you can and have the tools, is to check the blower motor connector to make sure 12 volts is present. If so than I would recommend replacing the blower motor resistor. Then if the same issue ever happens again and the blower motor resistor is bad again, you will need to replace the blower motor and the blower resistor as the final repair.
Here is some info about testing the resistor using a multimeter it you have one:

Both the front blower motor resistor and the optional rear heater-A/C unit blower motor resistor can be diagnosed using the procedure that follows. For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to Air Conditioning/Heater in Group 8W - Wiring Diagrams.
  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the blower motor resistor block.
  3. Check for continuity between each of the blower motor switch input terminals of the resistor and the resistor output terminal. In each case there should be continuity. If OK, repair the wire harness circuits between the blower motor switch and the blower motor resistor block or blower motor as required. If not OK, replace the faulty blower motor resistor block.
Here is the information on replacing the resistor:

  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. From the passenger foot well area, remove the two hex screws used to secure the blower motor resistor.
  3. Unplug the front blower motor resistor from the wire harness connector.
  4. Remove the front blower motor resistor from the HVAC unit.
Here is an exploded view of the HVAC box. The resistor is #63 in the picture and the actual part may appear slightly different:

spacer.gif 1100_024_0003.gif spacer.gif spacer.gif View Full Image spacer.gif

If any issues such as no voltage at blower connector or damaged or melted connector at the resistor then let me know.

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Power on but nothing else

My DVD22 did exactly the same. The solution mentioned by shelompidid not apply to me since my model already had the fix factory fitted.

The other problem mentioned on page 21 of the service manual did the trick for me, although the complaint does not seem to be directly relavant:

"Complaint: Will Not Read Disc; Other Functions May Be Disabled
See h/k service bulletins HK2004-03 and HK2005-02, as the issues covered there involve similar
Probable Cause: EC19 and EC20 (1000μf 16v capacitors) may be defective in the power supply. This can be checked by measuring the +3.3v and +5v voltages that are associated with EC19, 20 to see if they are low (more than 0.1v low). The SPMS output voltages are marked on the PCB adjacent to the large 13 pin header. While there is only one 3.3v pin, there are several +5v pins, and care should be taken to measure the correct one(s), which are either two +5v pins approximately in the center of the header.

I could actually see on the power supply board that these two caps were damaged, although they were not completely popped. An additional cap which was damaged on my board was EC4.

When I measured the voltages the middle D +5V was reading about 4,6V. I did not expect a problem until I read the statement above on page 21 stating it should not be low by more than 0,1V. My A+14 and A-14 voltages also read about +/-17 to +/-18V.

I replaced all three caps: EC4, EC19 and EC20 with 25V caps instead of 16V caps. The voltage for D +5V now read exactly 5,01V! The A+/-14 read +/-16V (some improvement).

My unit is operating fine after replacing these 3 caps! I suspect that the damage to the caps could have been spikes on the AC suppy some stage, maybe due to lightning. Pretty amazing that only the power supply have damage and not the main pcb.

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