Question about Whirlpool RF341BXKW Electric Kitchen Range

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Burner heating when it shouldn't.

Sometimes my left front burner won't shut off. The burner light is on, the switch is off, the surface light doesn't come on to warn being hot, and the burner in very warm to the touch? Any suggestions?

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Change the switch contacts sticking

Posted on Apr 02, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a kenmore stove model number 790,72403012 and 3 of the 4 burners are working. They all are getting a spark, but the front left won't fire up.


First, try to light the burner in question with a match. Just hold a match to the burner, then turn the gas on to low. If the burner doesn`t light, the problem is the gas supply to the burner. Next, lift the top cover and put the prop rod in the hole in the cover to support it. Hold a match to the left-front burner. Now, turn the control knob to "light". You should see the igniter spark and hear a snap. If this doesn`t happen, repeat this step with the left rear burner. If you hear the spark and snap.
If the igniter doesn`t work on the front left burner, but does on the rear left burner, the igniter does work. The problem is likely the control knob for the left front burner. The. Control knob includes the electrical switch the activates the igniter when you turn on that burner.

Jan 26, 2015 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I have intermittent problem with two of the four rings - sometimes they work sometimes they don't


see this causes and proceed for fix it. God bless you
Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Oct 02, 2012 | Neff Cooktops

2 Answers

Broiler burns but the bottom burner on the stove will not come on the glow igniter turns orange but the burner doesn't light also one eye doesn't light, the striker sparks but the burner...


Hello,

FOR THE OVEN NOT HEATING

The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both.
if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time

FOR THE SURFACE BURNER NOT LIGHTING The holes on the burner espically those around where the electrode are dirty/clogged. By using a paper clip/safety pin to push in and clear the holes then clean the burner up with some steel wool the burner should light. GENE

Aug 29, 2011 | Maytag PGR5710 Performa Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Why would an electric oven stop working? I tested the element


There are a few things to check for. Make sure the electrode ( the small metal piece that the spark comes off from ) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes and NOT a tooth pick as these can break off and make things worse. Example of a burner. The next thing to check for are theignition switches under the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a bad spark module, replace it. Sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches, try drying them with an hair dryer to see of this will help. Repair and checking tips for surface burners.

Nov 16, 2009 | GE Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I have a new ge range. When I turn on the left


mvek,
If you could see through the glass, you'd see "temperature sensors" located near the elements. They're very sensitive little guys, and rightly so! Their job is to detect temps and energize the warning light on the cooktop so users won't get burned.

To answer your question... It appears that there is an issue with the front left sensor (and possibly the right as well). The temp warning lamps should NEVER go off immediately. Please call for warranty repair (1-800-GE-CARES). This is an unsafe condition for you and your Family. The warning indicators are there for a reason and should indicate high temp's as long as high temp's are present.

SG

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Apr 11, 2009 | GE Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Surface unit indicator light is always on


One set of contacts in a surface unit switch is "welded" together, causing the burner indicator (pilot) light to remain on even when all burners are shut off.
With power disconnected to the range, remove the back cover behind the switches and pull one of the wires going from a surface unit switch to the indicator lamp. Make sure the bare wire is not touching anything and reconnect power. If the light goes out (and still goes on when the other burners are turned on) you found the bad switch. If light still on, repeat the procedure with another one of the burner switches (reconnecting the first) until you find which switch is the bad one. (most often it is the burner you use the most, generally the right front burner) If you post your full model number and tell me which switch it is, I can look up the part number for you.

Feb 06, 2009 | GE Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Front left burner wont work.


It sounds like the left front control or element has a high resistance short.

Jan 23, 2009 | Tappan TEF242 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Left Front and Right Rear burner does not heat up


Both burners should be replaced as well as the recepticles that it plugs into. There are recepticle kits available for this repair.

Jan 11, 2009 | Frigidaire FEF352 Electric Kitchen Range

3 Answers

Whirlpool electric range burner power light stays on but no heat


Hello givemeanidth.
Welcome to Fixya

You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.

What is the model number and the age of your range?

Waiting for your reply.
Huuum

Sep 02, 2008 | Whirlpool GR465LXLS Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

The right front burner won't heat


The switch probably failed. Remove power. Take off the top rear cover and inspect the switch for signs of discoloration (burned or brown areas). If looks OK then maybe the element failed.

May 28, 2008 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

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