Sometimes my left front burner won't shut off. The burner light is on, the switch is off, the surface light doesn't come on to warn being hot, and the burner in very warm to the touch? Any suggestions?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First, try to light the burner in question with a match. Just hold a match to the burner, then turn the gas on to low. If the burner doesn`t light, the problem is the gas supply to the burner. Next, lift the top cover and put the prop rod in the hole in the cover to support it. Hold a match to the left-front burner. Now, turn the control knob to "light". You should see the igniter spark and hear a snap. If this doesn`t happen, repeat this step with the left rear burner. If you hear the spark and snap. If the igniter doesn`t work on the front left burner, but does on the rear left burner, the igniter does work. The problem is likely the control knob for the left front burner. The. Control knob includes the electrical switch the activates the igniter when you turn on that burner.
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time
FOR THE SURFACE BURNER NOT LIGHTING
The holes on the burner espically those around where the electrode are dirty/clogged. By using a paper clip/safety pin to push in and clear the holes then clean the burner up with some steel wool the burner should light.
There are a few things to check for. Make sure the electrode ( the small metal piece that the spark comes off from ) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes andNOTa tooth pick as these can break off and make things worse.Example of a burner. The next thing to check for are theignition switchesunder the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a badsparkmodule, replace it. Sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches, try drying them with an hair dryer to see of this will help.Repair and checking tips for surface burners.
mvek, If you could see through the glass, you'd see "temperature sensors" located near the elements. They're very sensitive little guys, and rightly so! Their job is to detect temps and energize the warning light on the cooktop so users won't get burned.
To answer your question... It appears that there is an issue with the front left sensor (and possibly the right as well). The temp warning lamps should NEVER go off immediately. Please call for warranty repair (1-800-GE-CARES). This is an unsafe condition for you and your Family. The warning indicators are there for a reason and should indicate high temp's as long as high temp's are present.
When the burner went, it took out the switch that controls it. The contacts inside the switch have welded together. That switch needs to be replaced. You should also look at the receptacle that the burner plus into. That may have been the original cause of all the problems. The contacts in them often wear causing the burner to src inside the receptacle. These parts should be readily available from Sears: burner control (infinie) switch, Burner receptacle.
One set of contacts in a surface unit switch is "welded" together, causing the burner indicator (pilot) light to remain on even when all burners are shut off.
With power disconnected to the range, remove the back cover behind the switches and pull one of the wires going from a surface unit switch to the indicator lamp. Make sure the bare wire is not touching anything and reconnect power. If the light goes out (and still goes on when the other burners are turned on) you found the bad switch. If light still on, repeat the procedure with another one of the burner switches (reconnecting the first) until you find which switch is the bad one. (most often it is the burner you use the most, generally the right front burner) If you post your full model number and tell me which switch it is, I can look up the part number for you.
You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone
burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat
control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on
or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs
broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure
no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner,
no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same
size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the
one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the
breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to
that one burner only.
What is the model number and the age of your range?
Look at the back of your range there should be schemetic for your power control board. look for defective burner wire going into relay. There should be 5 relays in rows. Realy is the problem. I had the same problem with my front left burner stuck on high. After replacing everything works okay.