Wheel does not stay true

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code C1226 Buick: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Cadillac: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Chevrolet: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Chrysler: Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Dodge: Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Ford: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. GMC: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Jeep: Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Lincoln: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. Mazda: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. Mercury: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. Mitsubishi: FR inlet valve Oldsmobile: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Pontiac: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Saturn: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Toyota: Open or short in hydraulic brake booster solenoid circuit (SA2/SPC/SPFR/SPFL/SMV1/SMV2/SBAL)

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there is a blower wheel tool that is used to remove the blower wheel if you were able to remove the wheel and the key is still in the wheel you have to soak it with some WD-40 spray it and leave it for a to penatrate then rest it on something flat and usd a punch to tap it out

one of the big wheels has an adjustment on the center pivot that tilts that wheel to keep the band running true
turn that adjustment while turning the band by hand and you will see the band run back onto the wheel ( or off it if you go the wrong way)

That is an indication that the clock spring (large wire bundle) in the steering column is broken. You can spend upwards of 400 usd having the dealer fix it. Or you can look here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=2000+Chevrolet+Blazer+S10+Clock+Spring and check youtube for videos on do it yourself.

If what you stated is true, then an answer here is useless since you would have not been able to drive this vehicle after that, and have had it towed and repaired.

Several things could cause wheel shuddering. Sit the pram back on it's rear wheels and handle than spin the front wheel and watch it spin. Is it spinning evenly in both directions? Both wheel and tyre. Up and down and side to side. Are the bearings running freely with no excessive noise? Check the swivel action of the front axle. You should be able to figure out where the imbalance is coming from. It the wheels not running true a bicycle shop should be able to fix it or you can source a new wheel from Kolcraft. www.kolcraft.com/customer-service/contact-kolcraft/

If it is the wheel not the tier / i guess ether way ,/ ACE, or TRUE VALUE, should Carry the wheel, depending on how old it is you maybe able to call your local salvage yard [ If you really want to go green]. Hope this is some help to you .PS feel free to let us know how it works out . Good Day.

My husband and I just put this trike together and had a similar problem - the front wheel always turned the pedals and we couldn't figure out how to stop this. The manual for the trike is awful and very hard to understand. After spending a LOT of time analyzing the pictures and doing all sorts of weird things to the pedals, I found a posting on a website that said they'd had the same problem, but had removed and re-attached the front wheel and the problem was suddenly fixed. Sounds too good to be true, right? Well, we noticed that in one of the manual's pictures that the air valve for the front tire was facing the other direction - we'd actually put the tire on backwards. I took the tire off, put it back on facing the other way, and suddenly it all works as it's supposed to.

The thing is, you actually don't have to "do" anything to change from free to fixed and keep the pedals stable. If my daughter pushes the pedals around, they move around, and if she keeps her feet steady on them, the wheel continues to go around while the pedals stay put. It truly is automatic, which the diagram in the manual does a terrible job of conveying.

Hope this helps someone. We like this trike, but the directions are beastly!