Can someone please give me a step by step procedure on wiring my honeywell HE22OA humidifier. I am not clear how to do this. I have a plug in transformer, humidistat, sail switch and solinoid. Thank you
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Honeywell is a controls company and makes a variety of auto-pilots. If this is a no spark problem,does the lead from the igniter go to a big PC board or a module. If a module, check voltage to the spark module or thermostat voltage to the ignition module. If it comes from a large board, the board may be bad. I'll need more Info. if this does not cover it for you.
Hello, in order to turn your humidifier on with the furnace the 120 volts coming from your humidifer you must hook it up to a step down transformer, then the transformer will provide 24 volts to you humidistat and solenoid valve. So you need a wire from the HUM on your control board to transformer primary side and a wire from neutral on the board to primary side of transformer. Then you need low voltage wire from secondary side of transformer to humidistat from humidistat to humidifier.
If you don't have a volt meter, purchase one. I've seen them as low as $20.00 at Sears and even lower at Home Depot and other discount stores. The HUM terminals are most likely low voltage (24v). The "N" is the neutral. Assuming you have confirmed this is low voltage (24v, you will use HUM and "N" terminals. This control sequence is typically to allow for operation of your humidifier only when there is a call for your fan to run. The brown wires coming from your Humidifier are your low voltage circuit. One should be directly wired to "N". The other should be ran to your humidistat. The other side of the switch of your humidistat should be wired to the HUM terminal.
I hope you will find this helpful. Good Luck!!!!
This might have a bad valve,or It could be mis-wired.It should be wired to common and hum on the control board.You can test By checking the voltage when the unit is off,and valve should be closed. Good Luck --Nate
it is best to use a seperate transformer for the hummidifier, but in some cases you can use the low voltage t-stat wire that runs your furnace, you will need to have one wire run to common, and the other to the heating side of your low voltage, normally its the red wire hooked to the w circuit of your terminal board, if you do decide to go with an extra transformer, make sure you you have it wired to bring on the humidifier only when the unit calls for heat, hope that helps
I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES.
INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT.
IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE.
I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT.
YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT".
NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.
THAT MODEL COMES WITH A BUILT-IN AIR FLOW SWITCH (IF I RECALL CORRECTLY) THAT CAN GO BAD ...
IN THE OLD DAYS WE JUST POWERED THE HUMIDIFIER BY CONNECTING IT TO THE LOW SPEED (FOR HEAT) OF THE BLOWER MOTOR.
HONEYWELL HAS HAD PROBLEMS WITH THEIR RESIDENTIAL AIR-FLO SWITCHES ON HUMIDIFIERS AND THEIR ELECTRONIC AIR CLEANERS.
AND THEY ARE THE HIGHEST PRICED ON THE MARKET.