Hello! Change the 2 capacitors 100uF 10V on the power card on the rear speakers. The capacitors are laying side by side on the printed circuit where the 220 V transformer is fitted. I used 100uF 16V on my speakers. The flashing red LED changed immediately to steady blue.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If your subwoofer does not work on your altec lansing speakers, more than likely you blew the subwoofer amplifier board. I have an ADA-885 system and bought it brand new back in November 2000 and has been flawlessly operating great up until this past month when my subwoofer went out but my "satellite" speakers kept working. After disassembling the subwoofer box I first noticed that the subwoofer amplifier board is seperate from the rest of the grouped boards for the dolby and satellite speakers. The subwoofer box is designed to use the air from the subwoofer to actually cool the amplifier boards inside the unit, great feature until your subwoofer goes out, that is when your main amp will more than likely fail soon after the sub amp fails, as it uses the air from the subwoofer to keep the amps cool. I know this might be an older post but hopefully I can put it in the right category to hopefully be able to help someone out in the future.
You can test the ohms of the speaker with a multi tester. It's a dual voice coil speaker, 6 ohms each.
Well my system is broke and needs another subwoofer amplifier board so if anybody reads this and has this subwoofer, I need my sub amp fixed ! or if you have the subwoofer unit maybe and nothing else to go with it but the subwoofer lights up, give me a jingle, I'd buy it from you !!
Check the "speaker selector" on the front panel. Make sure A, B, or both are lit up. Also, make sure the "6 ch input" is"off" it's a button right below the volume knob on the right If it's still not working, post a comment and I'll help you troubleshoot further. Hope this helps
Bought a S10.3 in jan/2010, LED died a month later. I've repaired it by myself. After inspecting circuit, I've found that their design puts almost 14V of reverse bias upon that poor blue LED. These components are not usually expected to sustain more than 5V of reverse polarization. So, in my opinion, there is a design flaw. To make a long lasting repair, you just need to insert a general purpose diode in series with the LED, such as an inexpensive 1N4148 ($0.05). And, of course, any readily available 3V, 5mm, through-hole round blue LED (I think crystal clear should be better).
I have the same problem. I tried to get it fixed by sending it to my retailer (Best Buy) who then sent it to the LG company and they said everything was fine. But there was one problem with their diagnostic...it wasn't. The subwoofer worked fine when i originally bought it, but about a month later it would not work or it would work intermittently. It literally takes about an hour for this thing to start working, and now my right speaker has started to not work. My judgment is that this product is poorly made and the service people at LG are incompetent!
I bought my VE-28s and it did exactly that crackled, cerwin replaced part in amp but few months later problem persisted. they then replaced entire amp assembly and its been fine. i really push it to and its been fine. to test it, unplug the connection from amp/ reciever and see if it persists. if so its the sub, if not its the amp/ reciever. dont dump it, these subs really crank and can put out some deep loud bass.