I need to know the carburetor adustments, it has s...

When you say "stay running", how long does it actually run for? Will it ALWAYS start and run, even if it dies, or will it sometimes not run at all and only turn over?

Idle air mixture screw needs adusting

https://youtu.be/73eNXgFQOC4

3 oz of 2 stroke oil to a gallon of gas will give you the 50/1 ratio, heres some other info you may need since your working with it Ok first the plug gap is around .030". Next you have to have compression. With the sparkplug in you should be able to feel the "hard" spots while pulling the starter rope. The rope should not just pull out smoothly. Now for the carburetor. Start by screwing the hi and lo jets in as far as they will go. Gently screw them in, don't force them or you will damage the needle and seat. Now turn them out 11/2 turns each. The idle speed will be adjusted later. Make sure that the fuel is fresh and has the right amount of oil in it. Now start it up and let it warm up. You may have to use the throttle to keep it running. Adust the idle screw so that it will run on it's own. Now adjust the lo jet until you get the highest rpm, adjust the idle to keep it at a good idle. Now adjust the hi jet, you do this at full throttle until you get the hight rpm. Let it idle, now open the throttle, if it hesitates turn the lo jet out about 1/8-1/4 turns and try it again.

Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it
run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,
but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you
buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will
get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the
number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns
they were in/out.
Please rate me, Thanks
Good Luck, I hope this helped

Hello Liz;
The shop manual for my 359 says the initial settings for "H" and "L" are 1 turn CCW from lightly seated, then adjust for performance. If your saw is already running just adjust for performance. I have tried many different procedures for performance and this is the best I have found.
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

• CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
• Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
• Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
• There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.

HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/)
15 = week produced – March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
HusqvarnaInternational.com
http://corporate.husqvarna.com/?p=contact&afw_lang=en

I am going to close the your second post for this. If I misunderstood your question or you have more questions post back (below) please.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Does it respond better with the choke on? Has the bike sat for an extended period of time (a year or more)? If either answer is 'yes', then you need to have the carburetors disassembled, cleand and put back together (overhauled).

PROTECT YOUR EYES AND BARE SKIN WHEN USING SPRAY CARBURETOR CLEANER!!

adelello, if you left gas in it as you said, you would also need to drain and clean out the old stale fuel from the carburetor float bowl and the fuel line, cleaning the main jet wouldn't be a bad idea either.
To do this, get an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner with the long tube attached to the nozzle, remove the float bowl from the bottom of the carburetor being careful not to lose the float needle (most of the time it will stay attached to the float as long as it doesn't drop all the way down). If the gasket for the float bowl is rubber, carefully remove it before spraying the carb cleaner because it will swell the rubber and make it useless. Spray the carb cleaner in the bowl and clean it, take the plastic tube and route it up into the center of the carburetor (don't bend it to where it pinches it off, just a bit of a curve) where the bowl nut screws in and spray it with 2 or 3 shots of cleaner letting it drip down into some sort of tray to catch the run off. The cut off bottom of a quart oil bottle works real well for this purpose.
As for checking to see if it fires, the proper way is with a spark tester but you can use your carburetor cleaner (I never use ether) and spray a little in the carburetor to see if it starts briefly and runs off that.This will also give you the opportunity to check the condition of your air filter if you haven't already done so.

SOUNDS LIKE THE CARB NEEDS CLEAND AND A NEW PRIMER THE CARB MAY NEED A KIT LET ME KNOW IF THIS HELPS

SOUNDS LIKE YOU MAY NEED TO TAKE IT TO A SHOP IT COULD NEED A CARB KIT AND THE MUFLER MAY NEED TO BE CLEAND OR REPLACED