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There are small DIP switches in the fan head and small switches in the remote. The head and the remote have to match. If you have two remotes, you can set fan heads and remotes to different channels. Video shows it.
Most garage door openers have dip switches for the code set. Open the the access panel on the back of the remote and look inside to see if there are a series of small sliding switches with 0 or 1 on either side.. Should be like 6 of them and very tiny. That is your code and that means you have dip switches. This means that if you get another remote you set the dips in the same sequence.. On the motor there will be another access panel with the same set of dip switches. As long as they match they will communicate. As far as the outside control box you would need to look up the manufacture case set manual. These boxes are an on off switch that opens a circuit digitally and opens the door.
I have a hunter fanaway ceiling fan with remote it came with. they work fine. i want to set an additional remote for use at different light switch location. there are NO DIP SWITCHES in it, and i can't figure out how to pair it. super frustrated. i've tried turning power off, then back on & trying to pair with no luck. the light on the remote does turn on when you push a button, so the battery is fine.
any ideas? i've looked everywhere online
If you look for the Synopsis Pointing Device icon, possibly in the task bar, Right click on it and select Properties. There will be everything you need to switch it back on there.
It does not matter. What is important is the the settings are the same as your computer and the program printing to it. FYI: The last switch is the "STOP BIT" switch.
Look in the printing program and in the PC's control panel, in the "HARDWARE DEVICES" and choose the serial device. If they are set the same, make sure the PC's BIOS has the serial devices turned on. TRIVIA: Most printers and computers are set to N-8-1
The dip switches on the remote and on the fan have to match - which makes the remote and the fan on the same radio frequency so they can talk to each other. They all come with the same default setup of the dip switches (all in the "on" position and therefore they are all on the same radio frequency). That's fine unless there is a similar remote control fan nearby. So a remote might talk to several new fans if they are similar brand or same remote etc on the default dip switch settings and therefore same radio frequency. It's up to you to change the dip switches if you need to. You need to. They give you the ability to change the frequency so you don't control a similar fan down the hall, upstairs etc , while also controlling the one in the room that you intended to control ie your problem. As long as the remote and the fan match, they will talk to each other. So you have to change the dip switches on one of the remotes and the fan you are using that remote on to something different, but matching. There are usually four dip switches, usually all in the "on" position. So, for example, change the first dip switch to off on the remote and do the same to the fan - turn first dip switch off. You'll probably have to take the fan down and take off the top to get at the dip switches. That should fix the problem. My fan: Hampton Bay 54 In. Brushed Steel with Remote Model 55295
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