LG front loader, water leaks from back panel vent that is attached to the top of the spinning basket via a hose, leaks during final spin cycle when loaded with heavy towels...and suggestions?

Unlikely as the water is pumped out during washes and rinses. As you say it is only during spin, my view is that you have a crack or a split in a hose or a plastic part which is opening up due to the movement or vibration of spinning. The other possibility is a bad seal at the top of the drum on a top loader, or somewhere on the outer case of a front loader. A full strip of the outer panels is the only way. You can do a wash and then tilt the machine backwards against a wall and use a flashlight to look up inside.

Follow the link for help diagnosing this error code http://www.lg.com/us/support/product-help/CT10000010-1337714738535-oe

Does your User Manual say anything about this being likely to happen?
Sounds as if there is a throw-up of water into this hosing in the spin cycle or some such thing?

Do check your water hoses are tightly screwed. I have seen cases where fine jets of water spray into odd places which cannot be seen when the machine is backed to the wall.

Poppa

http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/poppamadison

Is this a FRONT LOADER? Or, a TOP LOADER?

If you have a leaking FRONT LOADER, the following link explains how to access and inspect your washer for leaks:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576656-washer_leak__front_loader

In the majority of the cases with front loaders, the door bellow begins to leak. A routine inspection of the seal perimeter will tell you if there are any rips or tears. If the bellow is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load


If this is a TOP LOADER, the following link explains how to access and inspect your washer for leaks:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576648-washer_leak__top_loader

In the majority of cases with a top loader, the water pump begins to leak. These pumps are not serviceable and require replacing if damaged. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3794382-replacing_water_pump_whirlpool_top

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need.

Follow the tips in the link(s) provided and make sure you inspect all hoses and tub seals as well.

If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER, so I can determine what washer configuration you have. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: The drain issue you referring to may not be a problem at all. It is normal for some residual water to remain in the wash tub below the spin basket. This is the low point of the drain line and some water ALWAYS resides here. If the water is visible in the spin basket, then you have a legitimate concern. In addition: If this is a TOP LOADER, some models use a balance ring on the top of the wash tub that is filled with fluid. This helps to stabalize the wash tub during the spin cycles and minimize off-balance issues.

If it is a front loader, then remove the rear panel, remove the belt, and soin drum by hand, if it feels rough, or is noisy and rumbling, then the main drum bearings have failed.
This is a major repair.

My Maytag washer model #:sav515deww is leaking underneath during the spin cycle. I took off the 2 front panels. I have been told taht it is a bearing and a seal that are out. Replacement parts cost approx $90.00. Unit is 5 years old. Is it hard to fix? Thanks

is the machine level

Hi,
The first thing to do is get the machine up off the floor onto a base that allows you to slide under machine on your back with a flash light. Make sure whatever you decide to lift machine up onto is very stable and durable. Bricks, blocks, or a utility cart maybe. You need to look under machine to see where the leak is coming from. You want to make sure it is not going to fall on you. The machine is not that heavy, just awkward to lift or move because of it's size. So, you could slide something under each corner, one at a time, or ask a friend to help lift it onto a base. Now you are ready to go. Don't worry, this is really easy.
Get a towel, flashlight, and start machine on a small load with shortest cycle set.(probably delicate). After you start machine, slide under and and try to find where water is leaking from. The pump is going to be a plastic circular shape thing with ridges on outside. Probably dead front center and attached to motor. If water is leaking anywhere from plastic circle thing, then this is your problem. BUT, also follow all the black hoses that are under machine. Sometimes leak can be a cracked hose or loose attachment. That is real cheap and easy. The hoses are attached with metal ring deals. You take a pair of channel locks or big pliers and squeeze them to open. There are 2 or 3 hoses that attach to pump that will need to be removed if this is where leak is coming from. Then, the pump is only attached with metal clips that you pull out to release pump from motor. No tools needed. Take the pump to sears or local appliance shop and I guarantee they will have replacement.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.



• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.



• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.



• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Is this a front loader you have? the banging could be broken shocks.