Kenmore dryer 110.875626011 will run but no heat. I checked for line voltage and continuity across the limits and the element which checks out. I also check the sensors on the exhaust tube. one has continuity and one does not. I temporarily bypassed that. Still no heat and no I get a F 23 code.

If your Kenmore electric dryer has stopped drying, there could be several reasons why:

1. Check the Power Supply: First, make sure the dryer is plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. If you have an electric dryer, make sure the outlet is functioning properly.
2. Check the Thermal Fuse: A blown thermal fuse can cause the dryer to stop heating. The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal fuse.
3. Check the Heating Element: A defective heating element can also cause the dryer to stop heating. The heating element is usually located behind the dryer drum. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the heating element.
4. Check the High-Limit Thermostat: A faulty high-limit thermostat can cause the dryer to stop heating. The high-limit thermostat is usually located on the heating element housing. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the high-limit thermostat.

If the dryer will not turn off, the problem could be a faulty timer or a stuck relay. You may need to have a technician diagnose and repair the issue.

Hello
Check high limit thermostat continuity. If ok ,Check for voltage at thermostat side of the heater element.If voltage present timer ok.Most likely centifugal switch at motor.Motor has to be running for element to work.

It's all fixable!

Check 220v at wall and back of dryer. Must be across the line
220
It will run but not heat on 110. Check breaker
Check element for continuity

hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Should have 240 volts at element.  If it has continuity, you will read the same voltage on either side.  Check across the element for 240.  If you only have 120 check for 240 across the two outside terminals where the cord hooks up.  More than likely either a half tripped breaker or defective breaker.  

No problem at all.The motor has a start and run winding.Your run winding is bad.The reason you have no heat is the run winding has to run to close the contacts on the motor switch.Replace the motor ,both problems solved. Hope this helps Please rate my response :)

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. I would need a model number from you to be more accurate. All Kenmore dryers are not contructed the same. The Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

I you are reading a voltage across the element I would expect that meant that the element had going open circuit. dryer elements should have continuity through them and thus you shouldn't read a potential voltage across them. Especially while it's off.

If the heating element is getting supplied voltage, even when it's off, that may have cause the element to cook itself.

Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.

Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.

I would say check voltage at the element to see if voltage is making it there. If it is, replace the element. If it isn't, track from the timer back to see where you are losing voltage.