Question about Ovens
More of a question then i problem..when you turn the knob of any of the top rings, you can hear the gas come through,you push the knob inward and it ignites,which is how it is suppose to be. Now when it comes to the grill or oven knobs when you turn them no gas can be heard coming through until you actually push the knob inwards to ignite it, which then as to be held inward for a number of seconds or the flame doesnt stay lit...is this the way the oven and grill are spose to work??
HI thanks for your question. the part that's at fault, is the igniter. it glows but not hot enough to ignite all the gas. replace the igniter. thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
Yes very simple. There is a bulb the flame is heating with a small tube that runs to the gas valve this is the saftey sensor that is bad called a thermo-couple , they are common to go out and should be easy to find online. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
all gas range ovens have a small metal box in the back upper area of the broiler burner; a gas line runs into this box as do two wires; this is a "flame control " gas valve; the way it works is: after the pilot has been lit as you turn the oven temp control a heating element in the box causes a small valve to open allowing a larger amount of gas into the oven burner to ignite the whole burner If you can only get pilot flame on high replace this valve
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
If the elements 'look' okay, they probably are. The 'infinite control switch' is probably the problem. With out the use of a meter, it's guess work. Unless you can see a connection problem.
Posted on Sep 03, 2009
Testimonial: "very useful thanks"
On standing pilot ovens the maker uses a safety device to kill the gas in case the pilot blows out. As long as the pilot is lit the gas safety magnet hold the gas flap open inside the safety valve.To save energy the pilot has 2 flames. The standby pilot keeps the cooper/nickel probe/sensor warm so the oven will light faster, the 2nd pilot is much larger, only appears when the oven control is turned on and this is what opens that valve. So when you turn the oven knob on the gas leaves the control and goes downtown to burner land. If that pilot is lit and that slow opening flap inside that valve is open, then the gas will enter the burner tube and ignite when it hits the pilot. Pretty slick ain't it? So what can go wrong? With age the flap inside the safety valve will wear out, get weak, work a little, then take forever to light and eventually just goes bye bye. When you get ready to replace the valve it ain't gonna be adjusted exactamundo, you gotta tweak it. To do so after bubble testing for leaks and lighting the pilot you turn it on and observe the flames. It needs to be not more than half way up the flame spreader. If it is to small of a flame it will take forever to bake even a pie shell, if it is too much their could be burned bottom and in some cases fire hazards. OOPs.
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks ! I will use this to investigate further... u da man !"
SOURCE: My `70's Tappan wall unit
Probably the safety valve is stuck closed or the bi-metal inside has died. You could try cleaning the probe on the pilot assembly and repositioning it so more flame can hit or clean the buildup around the pilot to make it a little hotter. When replacing the safety valve it will not be preset. Sit it beside the old one and get the orifice height the same and you will be in the ballpark of where you want that flame. More Here
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
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