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My Whirlpool clean touch 7 cycle 4 temperature gas dryer is not igniting?

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HI,

The gas burners won't ignite until the gas safety valve releases gas to the burner area. A temperature control system, or thermostat, helps the dryer to maintain an optimum temperature in the drum. This system can help to prevent any scorching of your clothes, and it also reduces the hazard of fire.

I would strongly recommend to get it repaired by a technician

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution.

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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I am not familiar with your particular model but there are 2 ways that the flame can be ignited. Older models use a pilot light which is a very small flame and uses little gas. More modern models (yours fits here) use a small igniter similar to those that are on gas grills. These igniters will fail over time. I would suspect that the igniter is bad.
Dan

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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Does the dryer work with the other temperature cycles?

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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Then there is problem in the power circuit sir

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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Kenmore Elite HE4 Gas Dryer Shuts off prematurely in the Auto Dry cycle and the Timed dry cycle


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Jul 19, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

What is wrong with a whirlpool 4 cycles 3 temperature dryer that will not get hot?


First clean the vents inside the dryer and to the outside be sure and clean around the blower wheel. Check the thermal fuse, the cutout fuse & all the thermostats. Check the heating element also check that it is not grounded to the heater box. Last check the centrifical switch on the motor as the heater runs through it.
Hope this will help you

Feb 27, 2014 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer heats up,, glow works, igniter works,, then cycles approx 3-4 times then stops cycling



Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.



if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....



If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.



check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

Oct 18, 2010 | Whirlpool LGV4634JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool gas dryer. Ignites at the start of cycle but not again.


Hi,
You will think this is crazy but change the ignitor and it will work again...

If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

Apr 22, 2010 | Amana ALG643RB Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Amana gas dyer wont turn model #lga30aw


Hi.

If the machine stays completely off, does not ignite, does not spark, does not turn, and does not show any sign of power, check the power outlet, and the power cord.

If the machine starts, ignites, but the drum does not turn, then the following parts must be tested:


PS2166310 Motor Switch Kit (part 3 diag 2 )

PS2021298 Motor Assembly (part 5 diag 2 )

PS2046298 TIMER, 4 CYCLE (part 5 Diag 1)

If the Dryer does not ignite or does not heat test the following:

If it does not ignite:

PS2039618 BURNER IGNITOR ASSY (part 7 - diag 4)

PS383994 Two Terminal Gas Valve Coil (p.8 -d.4)

PS383993 Secondary Coil Valve (p.12 d.4)

PS2046673 VALVE,ELBOW SHUT-OFF (p.14 - d.4)

PS2039380 Gas Valve Wire Harness

PS2201082 Limit Thermostat (part 7 - Diag 3)

If it turn but does not heath check also fan assembly and PS2046273 Cycling Thermostat (part 27 - Diag 2)




Here the diagrams

1
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2
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3
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4
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Mar 13, 2010 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

Gas Dryer. Heat for only one burn cycle.


Try vacuuming out the intake and exhaust of the burner to remove any lint or other debris. If no help, the main burner may need to be replaced.

Feb 03, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Drying on-and-off


I would replace the coils on the burner valve assy.

Mar 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

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