Question about Microwave Ovens

6 Answers

Removing burned out bulb on GE Profile Mode JVM1480WA 001 with switch on and there was a "pop" and other light went out. Replaced both bulbs and circuit appears dead. All other functions and interior light are working.

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  • 4 more comments 
  • jkolson Apr 01, 2008

    Is this just a fuse problem or is it most likely a wiring problem?

  • jkolson Apr 01, 2008

    My error ... should be JVM1460

  • jkolson Apr 01, 2008

    Internal light is fine. It si the surface lights that are out.

  • jkolson Apr 01, 2008

    I have opened the bottom panel and the sockets and wiring from the two lights to the master board behind the the touch pad appear to be intact. Before I pulled the plug I turned the surface light touch pad on bright and then to night light and then off. each change appeared correctly on the digital display so that it appears that the touch pad for the surface light is okay. There is no outward indication of damage to th master board.

  • jkolson Apr 01, 2008

    I may not be clear or there is a connection between the door interlock switches and the "surface lights" that I do not understand. The microwave interior light continued to function correctly and would go on and off when opening and closing the door. The two "surface lights" that illuminate the stovetop below the microwave have operated as if they were independent of the door opening and closing and were turned on and off with the "surface light" pad on the microwave. All other functions,interior light and microwave on and off appear to be reacting to opening and closing the door in a normal manner.

  • jkolson Apr 01, 2008

    Not very helpful.
    All of the functions of the microwave are working!! I can cook with it.

    It is a space saver model mounted over a cooktop with vent fan and lights which shine down on the cooktop when turned on. The controls for the vent fan and light that shine down on the cooktop are on the microwave cotrol panel. The only thing not working are those two lights. As previously noted there does not appear to be any damage to the wiring and specifically the yellow wire that runs from the light sockets to the control board. Pleas look at my last two comments. Thak you

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6 Answers

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  • Master
  • 3,422 Answers

HI,

Did you check the interlock switches?Please read the below steps:

Testing and replacing of interlock switches: With the oven unplugged, put an ohmmeter across the AC input just before the
interlocks (but beyond the power relay or triac if it precedes these). Open
and close the door slowly several times - there should be no significant
change in resistance and it should be more than a few ohms. If it approaches
zero while opening or closing the door, the interlock switches and door
alignment should be checked. (You may need to disconnect one side of the
transformer primary since its resistance is a fraction of an ohm. Refer to
the schematic pasted inside the cover.)

Replace with switches having a precisely identical fit and equal or better
electrical specifications (terminal configuration, current rating). When
removing the old switch make a note as to where each wire goes. Check
the embossed marking on the old switch - don't depend on location as your
replacement might just have a different arrangement. Make sure the new
switch aligns correctly with the actuating mechanism and then check for
correct electrical operation with an ohmmeter before applying power.


Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution.

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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  • Master
  • 871 Answers

With regards to what Master_Tech has said,

if this was a fuse problem, it was supposed to be dead.

but you yourself mentioned that everything else works fine. so in essense, this would fall to the category of wiring problem.

look for wiring connections that has burnt feature on it and at the same time, try to check if the fuses are in good condition. if your already thinking twice, replace the old fuses with new ones.

thanks for using fixya.

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

  • earl norman llanera
    earl norman llanera Apr 01, 2008

    they are reacting because they are not independent as of the moment you close and open the door for that. it must be grounded.

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  • Master
  • 788 Answers

If you are comfortable with opening the oven you could look at the board for any burnt or broken/loose components. Then either replace that component of the entire board if you can find it.

IMHO it's probably cheaper and easier to replace the over, I just bought a GE 1100W 1.1cuft oven for $80 from Walmart and have a one year warranty.

Good Luck!

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

  • Dean Joly
    Dean Joly Apr 01, 2008

    Those lights then are probably independant of the microwave circuit. There may be a fuse for them and probably a seperate board.



    Use a multimeter to check for voltage throughout the circuit, especially from the board to the power supply, and from the board to the sockets. Be careful not to shock yourself.

  • Dean Joly
    Dean Joly Apr 01, 2008

    The only way of knowing is to troubleshoot and in this case I would check for power at every possible location until I found the source of the problem. If the light controls are on the board and the LCD is detecting your button presses then I would think that voltage is not reaching the bulbs. Check for voltage between a ground point and the yellow wire. The voltage should also rise as you raise the intensity of the lights. If no voltage than the board that the yellow wire connects to is most likely the problem or the ground between the light sockets and the chassis is open.

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  • Master
  • 770 Answers

Cant find a JVM1480 model can you check that?

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Apr 01, 2008

    There is a 1460 then it jumps to a 1490 model but cant see a 1480

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Apr 01, 2008

    Either way the units lights are controlled by a door interlock switch (small mico-switch) you will need to check that first for proper operation

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Apr 01, 2008

    Not a fuse problem unless the unit is completely dead

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Apr 01, 2008

    you are correct now i know it is the surface lights that helps they are controlled by the main control board there is a black relay box on the board they go out you can be careful and open the ctrl panel tilt it out and tap on the relay see if it unsticks and turns on if not it needs to be replaced

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Apr 01, 2008

    to test the you can swap the fan and light wires on the relay board and turn on the fan if the lights work the relay is bad

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Apr 01, 2008

    Have you swapped the wires to see if the power goes to the unit?? you can jumper them as well it would be like the relay is closed and feeding power down to the lamps

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  • Master
  • 1,894 Answers

I think you need to check your control circuit

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

  • dewan nafees ahmed Apr 01, 2008

    it means bad connections

  • dewan nafees ahmed Apr 01, 2008

    Totally dead oven

    First, check power to the outlet using a lamp or radio you know works. The
    fuse or circuit breaker at your service panel may have blown/tripped due to
    an overload or fault in the microwave oven or some other appliance. You may
    just have too many appliances plugged into this circuit - microwave ovens are
    high current appliances and should be on a dedicated circuit if possible. If
    you attempt to run a heating appliance like a toaster or fryer at the same
    time, you *will* blow the fuse or trip the circuit breaker. A refrigerator
    should never be plugged into the same circuit for this reason as well - you
    really don't want it to be without power because of your popcorn!

    If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from
    the circuit to which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other
    outlets may be fed from the same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the
    circuit breaker. If the same thing happens again, you have a problem with
    the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If plugging in the
    microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately,
    there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.


    The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and
    the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to
    happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check
    the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost
    anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.


    Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank
    following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore,
    some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the
    clock is set to a valid time.


    Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although
    a dead controller is a possibility.


    If the main fuse is upstream of the controller, then any short circuit
    in the microwave generator will also disable the controller and display.
    If this is the case, then putting in a new fuse will enable the
    touchpad/display to function but may blow again as soon as a cook cycle
    is initiated if there is an actual fault in the microwave circuits.


    Therefore, try a new fuse. If this blows immediately, there may be a
    short very near the line cord, in the controller, or a defective triac
    (if your oven uses a triac). Or, even a shorted oven lamp - remove and
    inspect the light bulb and socket.


    If it does not blow, initiate a cook cycle (with a cup of water inside). If
    the oven now works, the fuse may simply have been tired of living. This is
    common.


    If the fuse still blows immediately, confirm that the controller is
    operational by unplugging the microwave generator, power relay, and/or
    triac from the controller. If a new fuse does not now blow when a cook
    cycle is initiated - and it appears to operate normally - then one of
    the components in the microwave generator is defective (shorted)

    Some models have a thermal fuse as well and this may have failed for no
    reason or a cooling fan may not be working and the oven overheated (in
    which case it probably would have died while you were cooking something
    for an important guest - assuming you would use a microwave oven for such
    a thing!).


    Other possible causes: bad controller power supply or bad controller chip.



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  • Master
  • 813 Answers

Hi frined

u have to go with a good techision he will chaged if do ur self it make to problem to damge it so go with good technision

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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That's on page 33 of the owner's manual. If you've misplaced yours, it's archived online here.

Cooktop Light/
Night Light

Replace the burned-out
bulb with a 40-watt
incandescent bulb
(WB36X10003), available
from your GE supplier.

1 To replace the bulb(s),
first disconnect the power
at the main fuse or circuit
breaker panel or pull the
plug.
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From the owner's manual:

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Replace the grille and screws.

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