Dryer operates but will not heat up - Kenmore 64932 Electric Dryer

If not heating at all try this. Go to electrical panel box and find the breaker labeled Dryer. It should have 2 joined together levers. Turn it off and see that the dryer is OFF (this verifies you have the right one) Operate this breaker back and forth (on and off) at least ten times. Then put it in the ON position and try dryer again. If it works you have a bad (intermittent) circuit breaker. Get an electrical handyman to change the breaker. If changing the breaker does not fix it you may need an appliance repair person. Why this is. The cycling on and off of the heat at the dryer is rough on circuit breakers. If this dryer has been in place for some years and replaced another dryer it is probable that the circuit breaker was not changed. BTW the dryer functions (except heat) operate from one side of that 2 sided breaker, while the HEAT operates from both sides at HIGH current.

3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Your Heating element may have burned out. Repair clinic has some good repair videos, and a parts department. Sears parts direct is also another source for parts.

in electric dryers,no heat is often caused by burnt-out heating elements,then overheat thermostats,and lastly operating thermostats.this assumes power and drum operation are nominal. some elements are in a "containment vessel". the really tough ones are behind the drum WITHOUT a separate enclosure. as it. is with dryers,the drum belt is best untightened by undogging it from the idler pulley.

Hi,

Visually inspect the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse.
Make sure there is nothing blocking the front of the dryer. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Good Luck and have a nice dayRating the solution is highly appreciated

Hi,

If your dryer runs but doesn't heat, verify that all breakers (or fuses) are fine. If one is blown, the dryer may still operate but not heat.
Another common cause of a dryer failing to heat (or only partially heat) is a faulty element. You will need to replace it.

Good luck and have a nice day.
Rating the solution is highly appreciated.

SOUNDS LIKE ONE OF YOUR HEAT SENSERS

Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.

make sure you have 240 volts to dryer. may be as simple as resetiing your breaker. if you have only 120 volts the motor will run but not the heater. next id see the thermal fuse has failed,than check your heating element , your operating thermostat, your hi limit thermostat, centrifical switch in the motor, but most of the time the heating element has just failed

Check to see if your venting is plugged with lint or anything else. I had placed a new outside vent cover with a screen on it to keep the critters out of the vent pipe and that screen clogged up with lint. The dryer went thru all of its operations but the heat shut off right away because of this plugged vent.