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Dear, check water leakage from the heater's radiator. For this, disconnect water circulation to the car cabin heater. There are two water carrying hoses for the heater, one is to carry water to the heater and the other one is to carry it back to engine. One end of these two hoses is connected to the engine side and the other end of these hoses is connected to the heater side. You have to disconnect any first hose's end from the heater's side and second hose's end from the engine's side.
Now connect the hose end, which you had disconnected from the heater
If the hose is longer than 5 feet, that's part of the problem. The hose must slope down and straight to a floor drain. It relies on gravity to drain.
Although you just purchased it, the hose connector and inner tubing may be clogged. This is another reason water is diverted to the bucket. Turn the unit OFF & unplug it.
Using an appropriately sized, 18" long, plastic
Zip Tie, carefully insert the tip of Zip Tie into the hose connector and tubing.
Continue to push it in until you reach a bend in the tubing. You will
need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past this bend, until it either
bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Then slowly pull the Zip
Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will breakup any clogs.
As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared, as some water
may follow. Reconnect the hose, plug the unit in and turn the Master
ON/OFF Switch to ON. Set the humidity extraction level to 35% or
Maximum if you have a manually controlled unit. Allow the unit to run,
while you the hose for water flow. It may take 5 to 10 minutes for water to appear.
NOTE: If you don't have a Zip Tie, you may use something similar ( i.e.a long pipe cleaner), but NO wire coat hangers.
Hope this helps you to troubleshoot & solves the problem. Thanks for choosing FixYa.
It's not a question of how to reset the unit. It's a question of how to unclog either the hose or the hose connector tubing inside the unit.
The hose is easy to check and unclog. Turn the unit OFF and unplug it. Disconnect the hose from the connector and either look thru it or blow thru it. If you see light at the other end of the hose or air blows thru freely, the clog is not in the hose. It's in the hose connection tubing.
Using an 18" long, plastic Zip Tie, that's appropriately sized to fit in the hole of the hose connection. Carefully insert it unitl it reaches a bend in the tubing. Gingerly work it past this bend, until it either bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Slowly pull it out while rotating (twisting) it. This will dislodge any clogs. As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared for some water to follow. If you don't have an 18" long Plastic Zip Tie and don't want to run out to get one, you can use something similar that is flexible and log enough. DO NOT use a wire coat hanger.
Hope this helped you solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
You need to purchase a Hoselock tap connector. There are two basic types, one has a thread that screws on to a theaded tap and the other type is a compession fitting that can be secured to most other taps.
The full range of connectors can be found on their website
HI. This is a water inlet valve issue. I recommend testing this device. it may be faulty.
To access the inlet valve remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow. There are two wires (four, if it has two solenoids) connected to the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. If your valve has two solenoids, test the second one in the same way as the first.
NOTE_ IF the water inlet valve passes the above inspection, simply replace the floater switch
It sounds like someone has repaired this hose , due to the connectors . There should be no connectors except for 1 , below the freezer door . This hose can get hot from the compressor heat , and break .
My suggestion , would be to replace the water resivoir in the refrig section , behind the bottom crispers . This resevoir has a hose that goes completely to the water valve , without any connectors , and a hose that goes to the coupling under the freezer door , for the water dispensor . If you remove the bottom kick plate , the hose from the door , goes about 8 " to the coupling which connects to the line from the resevoir .
Remove the bottom kickplate and the hose at the bottom of the door goes underneath the refrig about 3 inches , to a hose connector . Push in on the end of the connector and pull out the hose . Close the freezer door and press water . If water comes sprays out from hose under frig , then your door is frozen internally .If no water sprays out of hose , then your watervalve is bad . One coil is for ice and the other is for water but they come togather as one.
Hey there, just follow these simple steps then you'll be on your way To connect the continuous drain option. Remove the water tank from the cabinet. Inside the cabinet (water tank area) you will find a section of hose hanging beside the water tank, which is plugged at the end. Remove the plug from the end of the hose and install the drain hose connector (included with this unit) into the end of this hose section. Route the end of the hose (with drain connection) into the water tank, then through the hole provided in the face of the water tank. Attach a section of garden hose (to suit your continuous drain option requirements) to the drain hose connector. Place the open end of the hose directly over the drain area in your basement floor. Please make sure the drain hose section routed through water tank does not interfere with the correct positioning of the water tank inside the cabinet, or the will fail-safe switch mechanism will be activated, not allowing the unit to operate.
1.) turn off water valve that supplies cold water to washer. 2.) unscrew the cold water hose-type connector immediately next to the set of 2 water connections in back of unit. 3.) look into the hose you just removed or into the water connector on machine. you will find a metal screen (like a window screen) that is cone-shaped...if none found then remove hose connection at other end of same hose...remove it and then clean it thoroughly and then re-assemble all.