I have a Samsung bottom freezer. About two weeks ago I noticed the refrigerator door was sticking and it was getting hard to open. Now, in the last couple of days the freezer has not been cooling properly. The ice doesn't freeze, ice cream is melty, and the temp reads 28 degrees (29 after you open it) I unplugged the fridge for 10 minutes, and then plugged it back in. The fridge cooled to its normal temp quickly and with no problem, the freezer however remained and still remains at 28 degrees. I put on the power freeze to see if that would help cool it but it doesn't. I don't know what to do. My first question is, does the issue with the fridge door sticking have something to do with the freezer not cooling properly?
Air must circulate in the freezer when working properly. I am guessing the recirculating vent in the freezer may be blocked which would not bring warmer air back to the coil to be cooled. As for the door, I theorize there may be too much negative pressure which pulls the door in while you were pulling out ... don't have solution yet.
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To me This is on all Makes and models build up of frost means warmer humid air is entering into colder air this will cause a frost build up from entrance of warm air coming in so your looking at your air flow in all compartments of your ref,freezer so on.
blocked air will give false readings to sensors when compartment is asking for lower temp colder temp will be noticed.
bad or obstructed door seals door not closing properly
Follow your frost line it will point the way.
it's only 4 weeks old ./ don't mess with it it has a warranty you may void it if you work on it . it is probably in the main digital control in th fresh food .. but i would call the seller and they can set up a service for it .. mm
sounds like the evap thermistor took a ****. in the back of your freezer you have cover that sits over the refrigerator coil. under this coil sits a heater element that is turned on and off to defrost the refrigerator coil based on how long you've had the door open. the evap thermistor reads the temp inside the freezer.. close to the refrigerator coil.. and tells the heater element to turn off after it reaches a set temp where it can be sure that the ice has melted off the refrigeration coil which is about 60 deg. if your thermistor has taken a ****.. your heater element will only shut off based on the "fail safe" time (which is based on how long you've had your fridge door open) leading to a hot freezer.
i suspect your at home more on the weekend.. inside the fridge.. getting cold beers.. and that is why it ends up hotter on the weekend.
Our 550 bottom freezer drawer froze shut earlier this week and the motor made an unusual sound, like it was working too hard. Two of us eventually were able to open the drawer to find that it had frozen shut due to a leak which filled the ice tray solid and then adhered to the actual door, freezing it shut.
We emptied the fridge and freezer, turned the control dials down to 0, but neither the motor nor the light would go off. We finally killed the circuit breaker to get the appliance to shut down.
It's cleaned and defrosted and we noticed that the gasket has torn in three places, two on the fridge door and one on the freezer door. The freezer door could be from our tugging, but the refrigerator door is normal wear and tear. We filled the tears with some kind of putty and when it is dry we will start everything up again.
This is not the first problem of this nature we have experienced with our subzero 550, but it is the most dramatic. Each previous time we have called a repair man out and he has been unable to fix it.
if i read the english right, the compressor runs but the freezer fan only runs for a short time. no fan then no cooling.
there is a fan stat so that the fan only runs when the evap is down to temp. this may be faulty. also on some hotpoint, the fan switches off when door opened. check door switch operating ok. this may also explain problem with fridge lamp