Which of the following is the most likely cause of a slight burning smell -- heat roller, pressure roller, thermistor, thermal switch, something else? The heat roller has some scarring and the fuser assembly cover has some brown (heat?) discoloration marks, but the printer seems to work ok otherwise.
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Re: A slight burning smell from the fuser region ...
Although a faulty thermistor could be to blame for the fuser running above target temperature, the usual explanation for a slight burning smell is a bit of paper debris stuck inside the fuser, slowly scorching away to nothing.
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If the mark is persistent on each page and repetitive with very precise spacing, you need to determine which roller it's coming from. It could be coming from the transfer roller, before the fuser, the fuser itself, or the fuser pressure roller. Measure the spacing distance of the mark(s), then measure the diameter of the 3 above mnetioned rollers, multiply by pi (3.14159265) and compare the results to determine exactly which roller is causing the issue, then replace that particular roller. Hopefully it's not the fuser as you'd be better-off replacing the fuser film (main fuser roller lining). The fuser and pressure roller are a pain to source, and run abou $65+ for the pressure roller, and about $90+ for the fuser, not to mention this 2 last rollers will take about 1-1.5 hours to replace. They are not hard to replace using common tools. Don't forget to locate the printer service manual over the internet first.
The odor is coming from what is called the 'fuser' which heats and bonds the toner to the paper stock.
There may be some light residue from the manufacture of the fuser roller which is heated to a high temperature to enable the fusing to take place.
It may linger for several days but is unlikely to be hazardous in nature otherwise Samsung wouldn't allow it to remain on the assembly.
Laser printers often smell 'hot' due to this process but I have not heard of any hazard caused by fumes.
One caveat though; the fuser roller is coated with Teflon or an equivalent coating.
I nearly died from Teflon which was in a gaseous state many years ago but it was exposed to temperatures of greater than 450F which is dangerous since the effect is that of a nerve gas called phosgene.
Since that is a temperature one can easily reach on a stove-top, we have NO coated cookware in our home.
If you notice that the plastic near the warmest place on your machine feels uncommonly hot, it might be best to shut it down since it may be possible for the thermostatic control to fail so the fuser is heated to an abnormally high temperature.
I'm fairly sure there is a thermal fuse to prevent catastrophic failure but wouldn't count on it.
Hi, The burning smell can be cause by the Fuser. Maybe a piece of paper got jammed or if you have used any special media like labels or glossy paper if any of that got stuck in the fuser it will stay there until its burned out. Another thing could be that the HVPS is shorting out thus causing the smoke and the burning smell. The best option is to inspect the interior of the fuser and make sure there are no paper jammed in it.
You have a fault that indicates the heat rollers in your fuser are not reaching the prescribed temperature. Chances are you have a peice of paper in the fuser blocking the sensor.
If you open up the right-side door the fuser is the black box-like unit. It has small tabs that allow you to open the access hatch to look inside at the rollers. Unfortunately the sensors are behind the rollers, inside the plastic casing for the fuser.
If you cannot readily see a paper causing a jam, I'd recommend you have a service technician remove and inspect the fuser. Keep in mind that during normal operations the fuser can put out quite a bit of heat, so be very careful when touching any part of it or you could easily burn your finger tips.
The grinding noise is the clashing of gears. The fuser is composed of 2 rollers, a metal or ceramic with a heater inside (bulb) and a silicon roller to apply pressure. The 'hot' roller is geared and the silicon roller can be geared or free floating. There is at least 1 paper sensor in the the fuser to let the unit know whether paper is there and there when it should or should not be. Sometimes, the sensor gets slightly dislodged and can actually cause a jam. If you are hearing a gear clash, the paper is being pushed through the machine and instead of being pushed through the fuser, it stops because the fuser rollers are not turning. The rest of the machine keeps pushing, crinkling the paper. If there is crinkling, then gears that drive the fuser need to be checked. It is this gear cluster and/or the fuser that need to be replaced.
What is most likely happening is the pressure and heat roller bearings and bushings are very gummed up. When you remove a the fuser when its cold, try turning the heat roller gear, I would assume it is very very tight to spin.
What you can do it take the fuser apart, soak the pressure ( soft roller) roll bearings in some alcohol and then clean the heat roll ( aluminium) roller bushings and the end of the heat roll. Make sure you lubricate with some silicon lube the ends where the pressure roll mounts into the small holes in the nip fingers. That should help.
You can call a business called , ( you can google, The Parts Drop) and talk to Britt there. I am pretty sure he has the bearings for that machine. I don't work there, just have done business with them for years and they are top knotch.
You probably want to replace the gear also. Sometimes it can look really good, but be worn just enough to cause a problem.
Make sure you take a real good look at the condition of the rollers before you spend money replacing small parts, so that you don't wind up replacing 40 or so dollars worth of parts only to find out you do need the entire fuser.
That is caused 99 percent of the time by the fuser.
There is a solid aluminum roll and a silicon rubber ( pressure) roller in the fuser. The pressure roller either developes some flat spots from park ( non running) time and over time heat and use cause it to deform and become out of round. What then happens is when the paper enters the fuser it does so with a slight twist, and the pressure of the fuser, for lack of a better term, Irons in that crease during the fusing process.
Gave the explaination so you would understand what is happening.
As with any device that heats up you will see a draw on a 115 volt outlet depending on what else is on the same BREAKER, not outlet. 350 watts is only about 3A compared to some hairdryers that exceed 15A. A 220 unit would help but not much. I suggest making sure you "put it to sleep" as soon as possible after printing unless you are just constantly printing and can't wait for the warm ups.