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Whirlpool Duet Washer knocks during spin cycle

I have a Whirlpool Duet Washing Marchine (model GHW9100LW1) that is giving me problems. Recently, the washing machine has begun making a loud "knock" with every rotation.

I was curious what could be causing the noise, so I looked in the hole in the upper righthand corner on the back of the machine.

Inside, there is a yellowish piece of plastic that looks like it might be an exhaust pipe... with every rotation, the side of that piece bumps against the metal on the side of the washer. That is what is causing the noise. I suppose that whatever usually keeps the drum steady is starting to fail.

Does any one have any ideas as to how I could correct this problem? The washing machine is out of warranty, and I would rather save the money and do the work myself.

Any help would be greatly appreciated... let me know if you need more information.

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  • larkinjc Apr 01, 2008

    JsRock... thank you. Based upon your suggestion, I removed the top. I discovered the source of the noise - the suds overflow - had simply shaken loose from where it was supposed to be. (It was supposed to be partially coming out of the hole in the back that I was looking through! It had slipped loose and was resting against the drum. But, the drum still shakes...



    Anyway, I looked farther down, and I noticed the reason the thing shakes so much. One of the shock absorbers is broken... or disconnected. I snapped a photo, and I am going to try to post it here...



    So, can I simply put that metal piece back into the plastic receiver? Or do I have to buy an entirely new shock? I tried... it seems I would have to remove one side completely in order to re-insert it. Any thoughts or suggestions?



  • larkinjc Apr 02, 2008

    JsRock,



    Thanks again! I actually ended up removing the back panel and re-assembling the shock. I ran two loads last night, and the knocking noises, and a lot of the shaking was gone.



    Problems solved. Zero money spent. I am very happy. Thank you for all of your help.

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The pipe you mentioned is for the Suds overflow, I believe. It runs to a round opening with a grid-type cover over it on the back of the machine, right? Try removing the back panel to get a better look at what it causing the tube to knock against the casing. It could be that something has come loose and just needs to be tightened. You may be able to access this area by removing the top panel as well. There are three 7mm torx screws that hold the top in place from the back. Remove the screws and the panel should slide back and lift off. Many of the hoses on these machine are simply held in place by zip ties.
The parts that keep the drum steady are sets of shocks under the wash tub. I believe this model has four of them. There are also a couple of support springs that hold the tub in place at the top. Remove the top, back and lower front panels to get a better view of the support system and make sure they are all in place.

If you decide you need any parts, you can find them at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. The Sears site offers and illustrated view which aids in determing the correct part. Both sites offer competitive pricing and will ship directly to you. Repairclinic.com offers a do-it-yourself repair manual (item# 1025824) for $21.85. Just type in your complete model number on either site and follow the drop down menus. It may be worth your while to take a look. Post back and let me know what you find.

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Apr 01, 2008

    The shocks have come apart sometimes on some of the washers I have worked on. I have been able to put them back together and have them work just fine. You may be able to get it back together by lifting up on the drum to create enough clearance to get the pieces to slide back together. However, if you're going to have to remove the shock to get it to go back together it only makes sense to go ahead and replace it. There are two teflon pins holding it in place. The easiest way I have found to get them to come out it to slide a deep socket over the pointed end of the pin. It should be a socket the fits rather snug so that it squeezes the locking tabs in (you will see them on either side of the pin). With the socket firmly in place, you can grab the opposite end of the pin with a pair of pliers (flat hexagon shaped side) and steadily pull the pin out of the hole. Only grab the edge on one side of the flat end of the pin. Do not use the pliers to squeeze this end, or it will crush it. This process is not always easy. That's why I recommend you only do it once. Use care not to damage the pins. A new support shock kit only comes with one replacment pin (don't know why). If you need any further assistance, let me know.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Apr 02, 2008

    You are welcome. Glad to help. You might want to keep the info I gave you handy, just in case you need to replace any parts in the future.

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The shocks have come apart sometimes on some of the washers I have worked on. I have been able to put them back together and have them work just fine. Try it and run it with a small load to see if it can run stable during the spin cycle. If not, be prepared to replace the shock. If you decide to go that route, post back and let me know. I'll give you advice on how to do it. Thanks for the photo. It helps to be able to see some things from your perspective. It make it easier to diagnose.

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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