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Re: code for dryer vent connections
Yes, the semi-rigid metal flex tubing is recommended because it resists crushing, crimping, collapsing and heat. The old plastic flex hoses would collapse easily, develop more clogs, melt and rodents could chew through them easily. When installing a new flex hose, the SHORTER and STRAIGHTER you can keep the run, the better. The more bends you have, the greater possiblity you have of creating areas where lint can clog. I hope this helps you. Post back if you need further guidance.
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Yes, you can use a flex hose, however, remember there must be as short a connection between the dryer and the wall as possible, and you for sure do not want a kink in the hose. The flex hose can be cut to fit with metal snips. ( There is a metal coil inside the plastic) Many poeople do not know about free flowing air from the dryer to outside, and so wind up with dryers that will overheat and/or not dry their clothers. Be blessed.
The front panel has a little plastic cover over a peep hole to check the gas valve operation. You can pry that off and watch to see if the ignitor is getting super red hot to light the gas. In some cases you need to replace the thermal fuse due to overheating(usually blocked vent causes that). The thermal fuse is small, plastic, rectangular shaped, and located on the exhaust outlet area. It has two wire connectors. Remove one and check for continuity. If you read open then replace that and check for ignitor operation. Make sure your vent hose is not kinked and is as short as possible. Use a metal flex hose or duct tube. Stay away from vinyl or plastic as they are a big fire hazzard.
It's not the temperature of the air that is the problem. The air is seldom over 160 Deg F. If you have a vent fire the piping needs to last long enough without melting to starve the fire of oxygen in the hopes of extinguishing. Rigid aluminum piping is best suited for this, Rigid flexible is next. The tin foil and white plastic offer little resistance to melting if a fire should begin. The melting would allow the fire to replenish oxygen and support the burning process. The main caution here is to keep your dryer and vent clean...at least annually.
If the duct inside your wall is rigid metal all the way from the dryer to the house exit you need to do nothing to it . Replace the vent between the dryer and the wall with rigid metal 4" piping or hard flexible aluminum piping. If the duct inside your wall is either of the least effective types you need a new run of vent for the dryer to avoid a fire.
You can't use white plastic or flimsy flexible aluminum that feels like aluminum foil when you touch it.
Go to a hardware store and ask for a dryer hook-up kit. You can run the vent to an outside source through a wall or if needed you can exit the exhaust through a roof although I would not do this unless it was the last resort. Instructions for the dryer hook-up are included with the materials.
It consist of connecting a vent hose usually 4 inches to the dryer outlet and running the hose usually a flex hose to another outlet that vents the dryer air outside. The outside connection should have a door that closes when the dryer is not in use to keep rodents and pest out.
AF flashes if a restricted airflow condition exists. Check to make sure the lint screen is clean, the door seal is in place and the vent is not obstructed. I suspect it's the vent connecting the dryer to the wall or the vent pipe in the wall to the outside. Without moving your dryer, look behind it to see if the flex duct is crushed or pinched. If it is, it's pinching off your air flow, too. Pull the dryer out straighten or replace the hose (you can get vent hose at Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware) then slide the dryer back being careful to keep it about 8" from the wall (8" is the recommended distance from the back of the dryer to the wall, btw). If the flex vent is NOT pinched off, then you should call a chimney sweep to come out and clean the vent pipe that's in the wall.
*Note---> If you want to test this diagnosis to verify it, just disconnect the flex hose from the wall and run a load of clothes. The error code should not reappear.
Your motor could be seizing. It'd make sense because it's making noise when trying too hard to turn when there's a heavy load in it. Or a load at all for that matter. I would say motor needs replaced...
You don't say how much fluff is escaping, but some things to check are -
1) That the lint screen is fully seated into the top of the dryer vent 2) All the way to where it discharges the house, is clean and free of restriction 3) Check that the dryer door gasket and lint screen cover gasket's are in good condition and do not allow air leakage.
Make certain the flex duct leading from the back of the dryer is connected tightly to the dryer and the vent duct, and make sure the flex duct is not split or broken.
Many home improvement stores such as Home Depot , Lowes etc carry Vent kits. I would encourage you to pick up one of these and install it through your outside wall. Normally, the outside portion of the vent has a flapper to keep outside air and critters from coming into your house when that vent is not in use and also has a short section of ( typically) 4 inch vent line that projects through the wall cavity and into the living space. Most flex lines should be atteched to that. If you are usintg a gas dryer, it is strongly encouraged and may be code requirements in some areas to use only solid ducting to the outside. Electric Dryers do not have the same exhaust gases and can be ducted with a plastic flex line. Hope that helps...