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If you have a separate 'power' or sub-woofer amp, check that it still has power and did not blow a fuse. Is there an internal selection inside the unit for enabling the internal amp vs an external amp? Some will disable the internal amp using a setup setting, and just provide low level output that is expected to be amplified by an external amp. If it 'forgot' you might have to set it to use the internal amp again. Or vice-versa, depending.
That amplifier is 900W x 1 @ 2ohms.
If your subs are 4ohm SVC wired Parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, each sub will only see 1/2 of the rated power. (450W ea.)
Your gain (sensitivity) setting should be between 75% and 85% to max. You will be fine.
good day, check your spkr impedance, if 4oms use a posive spkr dividing network. if stills blows up replace a higher amperage of your fuse. ex.4A raise it up to 5A. the your amps consume higier current if more spkr wattage.
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.