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Whirlpool Washer no spin cylcle

I have a Whirlpool model # LXR9254EQ1 washer that the spin cylcle stopped working on. It makes noise like it is trying to start but the tub will not spin on any setting ie. Regular wash, Delicates, perm press etc. Any ideas how to fix this?

Thanks,

Jay

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  • mnttowin Jun 23, 2008

    I have the same problem buy my washer is LRX9245EQ1. On the Whirlpool site it does not have a motor coupler but it does have a coupler motor and it is unavailable. Any suggestions?

  • Michael Grimshaw May 11, 2010

    jsrock, that's a great description of how to change the lid switch, but if "it's trying to start," then the lid switch is fine.



    If the "noise" is a constant hum and the washer drains, then it's probably the motor coupler ($20 part). Same thing if it's a loud rattling or grinding noise. If it sounds completely normal - including the clutch noise at the start of the spin, then the clutch has oil on it, and our unfortunate friend needs a motor coupler, gearcase, and a clutch ($350 in parts, a.k.a. a new washer.) If the motor is making a loud pulsing noise, it's the motor ($100) or the start capacitor ($30) (though not very common.)



    And that, my friend, is why I asked Jay this very important question: "Can you describe the noise?"

  • Michael Grimshaw May 11, 2010

    Can you describe the noise?

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Motor coupler strikes again!

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

Thanks for the rapid replies. It was indeed the motor coupler. I will replace it today.

Jay

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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This could be a symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions (or if I'm incorrect in my assumption) please back and let me know.

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

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