An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: replace broiler element
Heater elements don't have any colors on the terminals. They will work any way you connect them.
In general, wires are always connected to wires of the same color.
I am concerned that you may be doing something other than replacing the broiler element. If so, it is very important to return the machine to the way you found it. If you can't remember what that was, you should call a professional repair technician.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
see the next steps and proceed according with commong sense: God bless you Usually,
when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned
out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick
tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows
red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may
last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns
out, you need to replace it. To determine if the heating element is
burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of thi
I did some work recently on a free-standing electric range.
The broiler element was heating up just a little. It was not getting red hot.
The range was practically new.
I discovered the crimp-on spade terminals to the broiler element had lost their springiness and were not making good contact with the element terminals. The ends of the wires going to the broiler element also showed signs of excess heating due to resistive contacts.
I bought a pack of new, high temperature crimp terminals at the appliance parts store, stripped the wires, and crimped the terminals on.
The original crimp terminals were right-angle. The new crimp terminals are straight. I didn't have a specialized tool for right-angle crimps. The straight crimps worked fine.
Just make sure there's plenty of clearance between the rear cover and the wires coming off the crimps to the Calrod.
Broil element now works great.
By the way, other ranges I've worked on use screw-on terminals instead of press-fit spade terminals. Not sure if press-fit spade terminals hold up after many years of service.
Maybe if an emergency repair needs to be done, could try drilling a hole carefully through the assembled spade terminal and putting in a 4-40 screw to recover the contact without having to buy replacement terminals.
I just finished repairing mine so I thought I would share. Symptoms: 1. stove top burners function correctly 2. ERC (electronic oven control with the readout) functioning with no error code 3. Could set temperature of oven or broiler and turn on. 4. Could here the "click" of the relays but oven or broiler would not heat and temperature reading would stay at 100.
After consulting the owners manual it become quickly apparent this was useless. Spent a lot of time on the web trying to find a wiring diagram and finally located it undr the stove top. DUH! After looking at the diagrams it seemed that the common connections to both the broiler and oven elements are: 1. Line 2 (L2 on the diagram) of the incoming 230 volt power. 2. Thermal switch supplying Line 1 (L1 on the diagram) to the ERC 3. The ERC and/ or relays on the ERC supplying power from L1 to the elements.
With a multimeter on the resistance function and power off, I checked the thermal switch and it was ok. There are 2 switches located close together and the one in question is the larger one and has a small red reset button on top. This button resets this switch if it activates due to a temperature over 300 degrees. The other switch turns a fan on and off and is not pertinent to this problem.
I then turned the power on and confirmed power at the L1 terminal of the ERC. I turned the oven on and waited for the "click" of the realy and checked for power at the BA terminal of the ERC. This BA terminal is the output to the oven heating element. It was dead. I repeated for the BR terminal (broiler element output) and it to was dead. To check for power one can use any red wire on a top burner switch for one lead of the meter with the other lead to the terminal in question. Be very careful if one posses no electrical experience as one could get electrocuted. If unsure find someone with experience to check with power on.
Seems the problem was in the ERC as there was power going in and nothing coming out to the elements. The clicking of the relays showed that they were functioning. I took the ERC apart and "rang out" the poer circuit for the elements and found that the power to the oven relay was interlocked through the broiler relay. This is probably to keep both elements from hating at the same time. I found a bad solder joint at the connection of the first (broiler) relay to L1. This explains why neither element would work. Afetr resoldering the connection I reassembled everything and tested. All is now functioning correctly.
normally theres 2 wires on the right side spade lug looking in from the oven front where it plugs in and both of the bake elements have a black wire on the spades and the right side has 2 wires off that terminal,but to simplify the correct connection take a volt-meter (NOT connecting the element) and connect to the single black wire on the left spade on the element on one meter probe and connect the right side to the other wires at a time and then switch on the oven and broiler at separate times and see which wires read 240volts when that switch is energized at that time
This code means "BAKE/BROIL range over temperature" Problem is in either temperature sensor or the control board. Check the temp sensor and wiring from it to the control board first (connector #3, contacts 8 and 10, violet wires) . At room temperature the temp sensor resistance should be around 1080 Ohms. Also check temp sensor for short to ground. If no problems found with the sensor - replace control board. OBTW - for the broil problem - check the fuse inline with the broil element (continuity between Conn #2, wire 1, blue and conn #4, wire 3, red). It should read several ohms. Good luck!
doble check the unit wiring, might have a wire out of place
it the display is showing the broil element on then check and see if you have proper voltage at the element, work bat to the board and find the problem