This is a acid neutralizer tank that uses a granular neutralizer to change the PH of the water. There is a push valve at top of the unit that switches from treated water to untreated water. This valve has bad O ring seals and leaks profusely. How do I find a new valve to replace? Right now I have the system completely by-passed so the untreated water is flowing through the whole house. This is a problem because I know it is a matter of time that pinholes will develop in the copper pipes. I already have had to add patches to the pipes over the past 10 years. Can anyone help with information on how to rebuild the valve or where to find the replacement on line?
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Re: Culligan-water control valve leaks
If this is a Culligan neutralizer you will need to call Culligan for replacement parts as they are proprietary. You can pick up the seals for the by-pass at Culligan and replace them yourself. Depending on the PH of the water and your water usage the calcite should be replenished on a yearly basis. So you may want to have them out to do that also. RJ
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pH values are the acidity of a body of water. Neutral water has a value of 7.0 meaning that it has equal amounts of hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions. When more hydrogen ions are added the water then the number goes down and the water becomes more acidic, or if the amount of hydroxide ions goes up then the water becomes more alkaline.
pH levels in your fish tank can prove to be fatal if they aren't monitored properly. While there is no secret formula for the perfect pH level for all fish it is best to keep all the fish from the same bodies of water together. Salt water fish shouldn't be put in a tank with freshwater fish because they need different pH levels.
Throughout the day the pH level of your fish tank will change although these slight changes shouldn't be too harmful on your fish sudden changes will prove to be fatal. When you are moving fish from one tank to another you want to make sure that the two waters have the same pH levels. When you want to buy a new fish check the pH level of your fish tank and then the pH level of the water at the pet shop to make sure that the levels are not too different.
You should be checking the pH levels of your fish tank at least once a month, but more often is always better. When you take the pH level you should write it down in a log book. You should try to take the pH level at the same time every time you take a reading because at different times of the day the levels would be different. Try to keep yourself from going crazy, if the pH level is a few decimals off of perfect your fish will be okay. If the level is fairly regular you shouldn't have to do anything unless your fish show signs of distress.
For a pH of 6.0 to 6.9 a type of naturally occurring calcium carbonate media called Calcite is used to neutralize the pH. For water with a pH of less than 6.0, magnesium oxide is blended with Calcite to bring the pH to 7.0 or above. The Calcite or the blend of media is put in either an up-flow neutralizer tank or a down-flow neutralizer tank.
Acid neutralizer water systems are typically installed after the well pressure tank.
In down-flow neutralizer tanks the media flows from the top of the media inside a vertical filter tank down to the bottom of the tank, and up a distributor tube and out of the filter to the household piping. Down-flow neutralizer tanks also act as filters since sediment and other fine particles become trapped in the Calcite. This type of neutralizer is automatically or manually backwashed to keep the media clean.
In an upflow neutralizer the water flows down through the center distributor tube and enters the media bed at the bottom and flows up through the media before exiting the neutralizer and flowing out to the plumbing. Up-flow neutralizers do not get backwashed because the media is never compacted and no sediment is removed. Since the water is flowing up through the media the media is not compacted to theoretically it does not require backwashing.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both up-flow and down-flow neutralizers. The main advantage of the down-flow neutralizer is that it not only neutralizes the water, it also acts as a whole house sediment filter. Down-flow neutralizers are usually automatically backwashed, which cleans the Calcite media and prevents rust particles and other sediment from fouling or coating the media. Since additional Calcite or blended media must be added to most neutralizers once or twice a year, down-flow neutralizers are easier to backwash and put back in service than up-flow neutralizers which cannot be backwashed.
Up-flow neutralizers must use an internal top screen in to order to prevent the Calcite from entering the home plumbing system. Calcite has the appearance of white sand and can quickly damage valves and fixtures if the media enters the plumbing system. If the water contains iron, manganese or sulfides, these internal top screens can later become fouled and so are generally are not used for this reason. Instead of the internal top screen, a filter housing and cartridge filter are usually installed after the up-flow neutralizer tank to prevent any mineral from flowing into the plumbing system. AdChoices With down-flow neutralizers these upper screens or external filter housings are unnecessary since the Calcite is prevented from leaving the filter tank due to the bottom internal distributor screen. The bottom distributor does not get easily fouled due to the backwashing the down-flow neutralizer tank receives on a regular basis.
In filter tanks the media can flow around the media and create channels which allow the water to flow without properly contacting the media. This type of channeling is more of a problem with up-flow neutralizers and rarely happens with down-flow neutralizers due to the action of the backwash. For most residential applications down-flow neutralizers work better than up-flow neutralizers due to the filtration feature and the backwashing function.
A down-flow neutralizer can be backwashed on a regular basis to clean, re-classify and distribute the calcium media thoroughly. This backwashing allows the down-flow neutralizer to function properly and lower maintenance costs. The Calcite media dissolves better because it is cleaned and then compacted in the down-flow neutralizer tank.
Well water that is acidic can also sometimes be high in iron, manganese or hydrogen sulfide. If a greensand or other type of manganese media iron filter is used to treat the water for iron, the pH should be raised up to at least 6.8 to allow the iron filter media to work properly. A down-flow neutralizer is usually the best choice to put in front of an iron filter because the neutralizer acts as a pre-filter removing some oxidized iron prior to the iron filter. This lessens the load of iron that the greensand filter must treat. Iron, manganese and sulfides can coat the acid neutralizer media and render it unable to dissolve into the water and neutralize the pH.
There are some applications where up-flow Calcite neutralizers are more desirable than down-flow neutralizers. If the flow is more or less constant on a regular basis, such as when the neutralizer is used to fill a holding tank with neutralized water, the up-flow filter works fine. Since up-flow neutralizers have no automatic backwash control valve they are less expensive than down-flow neutralizers. If the water is of excellent quality with no sediment or iron and the flow rate is constant then the up-flow neutralizer costs less to use and uses no backwash water.
I would suggest by-passing the system if the leak is substantial. Also make sure the leak is not coming from the main piston. Frequently leaks occur here, water runs down and collects around the top of tank before running down the side. Take the cover off, run the system through a manual regeneration and observe for any leaks. If the tank was hit it is most likely the leak is coming from connections between control and softener by-pass valve. If leak is coming from the tank and valve connection you will need to take the valve off to see if there is a crack at the tank threads. If so tank needs to be replaced. Here is a link for Culligan site that will have the manual for your machine. http://www.culligan.com/en/service-and-maintenance/customer-support/owners-guide/
Is this a gunnite spa/pool? Normally a rough surface indicates water that is too acid (I.E. pH is way low) The water wants to be 7.4 pH (7.2 to 7.6) ... and it will get there one way or the other. If this is the case in your pool, the water has taken the lime from the gunnite to satisfy the high acid level.
Please check your pH and other factors. Make sure your water is properly balanced to stop the lime migration ... Also check the calcium level ... should be around 300 ppm though it is ok as low as 175 and as high as 1000.
just like any other living things, plants and animals require certain conditions to thrive. for the fish it will be adequate food, enough air supply and room temperature. for the plant, adequate light and water is critical. you mentioned the acidity of the water, to be on the safe side make sure the PH of the water is neutral or near neutral at PH 7. if you meet all these conditions, your pet and plants should be fine. thanks
It depends on how old it is. Older Culligan systems(pre 1999) have separate inlet and outlet on tank and have washers that fit inside the "FEET" that slide onto tank. Newer style systems have center opening tanks with o-rings that seat on tank. You need to see what model it is. Bypass the system, run through a manual regeneration to relieve pressure, then you can change the washer or o-ring. They are only available at Culligan. RJ
Too much pressure in holding tank will not cause leaks in the RO unit. All too much pressure in tank will do is cause low or no product water in RO tank. Older Culligan RO systems (H8, H83, H5) had fittings that used metal locking washers and these can cut the RO line after the RO has been moved around while changing filters. Newer styles (AC30, Water Tower) use quick connect fittings and the RO line may work loose after filter changes and system being moved around under sink. Turn the incoming water off to RO, turn the water off on RO tank, open the RO faucet to relieve pressure and pull the line off feeding the RO tank, inspect (you may want to cut off a small portion of the line at the filter) check the o-ring and re-install. RJ
Check the salt tank too see if it is overflowing. There could also be a crack in the bottom of the brine tank causing it to leak. You need to determine where the leak is coming from. Many times water is leaking from the valve, running down the tank and collecting under/around the salt tank. As far as not cycling make sure the meter cable is plugged in, power to unit, etc. The valve may not be switching tanks, there can be many causes for this. Bottom line is By-Pass the softener until a service tech can come out. These Culligan twin tank systems (9000,9100,8500, Twin-Flo) are actually fleck valves so any water treatment dealer that sells/services Fleck valves can repair this system. RJ