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Re: od error code
If the error code still appears it means that the reed switch that senses if the lid is in the closed position is either jammed or faulty. You can try to temporarily bypass it and see what happens, but don't leave it in that condition. If necessary, have it replaced.
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Error "od" means that your washer thinks the door is open. If the door isn't really open then you'll need to replace your door latch assembly to fix the issue because it has failed. Try to unplug the washer for 60 seconds to see if the electronics will reset. If that doesn't work, then call the repairman back because you have an issue with your door latch assembly.
OD: Opened Door not sensed by machine control board. in this case the lid switch needs attention. or washer door. hope this helps ! 1.Make sure
door is closed. Check for loose wire connections
at switch and/ or machine control board. .Check for failed door monitor
switch. good-day !
od meaning from the Service Manual for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A; Open the Lid: The lid has not been opened for the last three completed cycles. The OD and OP error codes are trouble shot the same way. See if this link will help.
I feel you have lost signaling from the Left Hand Lid Lock for Lid is Open/ Lid is Closed. First check is to place a magnet over the Left Hand grey bumper and while watching the LED display see if the OP error code clears.If it does you have a lid magnet out of position.See the Service Manual for access to the Lid Magnet. See Pic;
If an external magnet over the Left Hand grey bumper doesn’t clear the OP error code with the lid open then See this Link for troubleshootingLeft Hand Lid Lock Troubleshooting.I discuss the OD error code but the OP error code troubleshooting is very similar. If the lid Magnet is not out of position then I feel you have a broken lead at the Magnetic Reed relay or severe corrosion issues with the Left Hand Lid Lock preventing Lid Open/Lid Closed status signaling to the Control Board in the Console.
Hey geonkarla637, Good job on troubleshooting, let’s focus on the Left Hand Lid Lock.It has the dual signaling functions to allow the Machine to operate as designed.The first signaling function is “Lid is Open/Lid Closed” signaling the “OP” error code for lid is OPEN if you press the Start button at the Start of a cycle or during a pause and resume portion of a cycle and “OD” error code if the machine has not seen the lid open for three completed machine cycles your issue. The second signaling function is “Failed to Lock” the “FL” error code. Because the Control Board programming is looking for the contact open/closure transitions at appropriate times of the wash cycle from the Magnetic Reed Relay in the left lid lock.I see no way to fool it by bypassing the magnetic reed relay in the Left Hand Lid lock assembly and have the machine work as designed. What I would do next is remove the Left Lid Lock and very carefully open it up.I found it is very easy to break off the enclosure locking tabs.I use a fine flat jewelers screw driver and X-acto blade and work around the locking tabs to open the case halves.I wedge small paper clip ends in the case halves as I work around the tabs.Again I stress they break off in a heartbeat take it slow and no coffee for 24hrs before you begin this operation …. (: How do the black and red wire on the reed relay look?If they look like this I would take a low wattage soldering iron fine pencile tip 25W no more than 60W iron and solder back on the broken end if that has happened.If you don’t want to deal with that you need to replace the Left Hand Lid Lock .
I would also use a drop or two of WD-40 on the slide switch in that signals “Lid Is Locked”.I’m going to include a pic of my attempt to document the Left Hand Lid Lock Control Board inputs and signaling outputs.I have labeled the Pins on that lock assembly for my reference, I cannot correlate them one for one to the schematic packed in the machine console.I have measured and watched the +12VDC input and output transitions with my DVM for the Lid Is Closed and Lid is Locked on the Control Board at connector P3.If your Left Hand Lid Lock is signaling correctly out of the assembly then I would trace the +12VDC signaling back to the control board.From your previous troubleshooting you have insured there is no corrosion on the male Left Hand Lid Lock assembly and the mating plug end. Please let me know what you find, I hope this helps; I’m a rookie owner still learning how to troubleshoot/repair the machine. As a side note I unplugged the Right Hand Lid Lock and taped up the plug end.I would never replace that lid lock if it failed my choice; I find it helps to simplify troubleshooting. Good Luck …………..Rich
Maytag's service center emailed me back saying that I needed to purchase a magnet for the right side of the lid, even after I sent them photos of the lid. There is no magnet on the right side, so don't be fooled! The lid comes apart fairly easily. First, with a screwdriver, apply a little downward pressure and pry out the center liquid/powder holder. It is hinged on the bottom and will come right out. Next, pull out on the bottom corners and the lid liner will come straight down. Now you can verify that the magnet (on the left side!) is there and seated correctly. If that is the case, go ahead and reassemble. Unplug the washer. Lift up the top portion of the washer (at the crease). You may need a screwdriver to pry up on it. I didn't. I just pulled up on it. It comes up fairly easily. Now you can see the locks, mounted with one bolt on either side. Inspect the wiring for any wear or damage. Next, remove the locks one at a time, unhook the wire connector and plug them back in. Reassemble. Leave the lid up (not sure if it matters, but I did) and plug the washer back in. That's all I did and it worked! The "od" alarm didn't come back.
od code is supposed to mean that lid has not been opened for the last 3 completed cycles. Also, apparently you tried the service mode and found the door lock to be working. So, unless the problem is with the electronic board itself the only other thing that could be happening is a faulty sensing switch at the door lid or a bad connection to it. I would try shorting the leads from the switch and see if the problem goes away. Then you might just need a new switch.