Question about Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

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How to test defrost timer

I get ice build up in my freezer how can i test my timer thermistor etc. How han i manualy get it to defrost or try anyway thanks rob

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  • Master
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We ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

  • SAM JAYANTH CHANDRASEKAR

    this is how u check the thermostat.....

    again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.

    The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel.

    The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
    Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced.


    with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link....
    http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-P...

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Sea Breeze
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SOURCE: how to test defrost timer

Yours appears to have come with a Adaptive Defrost Control Part number 61005988 Usally when they go bad being electronic strange things happen.Defost stops or a fan and compressor. They are the most likely reason for defrost failure on your model. On the ADC for your model I dont believe you can manually get it to work for you. Just Replace, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Mar 26, 2010

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My Bosch B20CS80SNS/02 is over freezing


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.












Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM Freezer Frost Repair Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...



Feb 18, 2017 | Bosch Refrigerators

1 Answer

Whirlpool freezer has ice in the bottom of it


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.



Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Freezer Frost Repair Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM



Feb 10, 2017 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi have a HRTFF436S the crisper keeps freezing our fresh fruit and vegetables. Any ideas on why and what we can do?


check thermistors

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM Freezer Frost Repair Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement



Dec 30, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My Samsung RFG297HDRS have ice keep building up below freezer cabinet. Is there a solution other than removing ice every 2 week, It use to be once month.


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.











Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Freezer Frost Repair Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM



Sep 28, 2016 | Samsung RFG297HDRS Stainless Steel

2 Answers

Fridge side is not cold and freezer side ice building up on the back panel fan is working is it the thermistor causing that and how many ohm's thermistor should have


Defrost heater is open and needs to be replaced. Or maybe the defrost timer is no good along with defrost thermostat.

Check them out.

Nov 25, 2015 | Amana Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice building up in bottom of freezer, of side by side maytag


Hello there,
When you are experiencing ice build up in your refrigerator, it simply is due to a faulty defrost unit. The defrost unit is composed o9f the defrost timer, defrost thermostat and the defrost heater. Once the freezer is building up ice, the defrost unit turns on the heater, then the defrost thermostat turns off the compressor while the defrost timer, settings the routine timing for the activity.
Once a component out of the three develops a fault, the routine is stopped and then ice begins to build up in the back of the freezer or at the bottom depending on the type of refrigerator it is.
The solution to the problem is for you to have the defrost timer, defrost heater and defrost thermostat tested, that way you will be able to tell the faulty component and replace it with a new one.
To carry out the testing and replacing of these components, please read this tips, it will guide you on testing the components and replacing them.
Defrost thermostat http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10513592-test_defrost_thermostat http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10513650-replace_defrost_thermostat
Defrost timer http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523722-test_defrost_timer http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523742-replace_defrost_timer
defrost heater http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523771-test_defrost_heater http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523754-replace_defrost_heater
Hope this was helpful to you. All the best. Elect_Comp

Sep 26, 2011 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

GE model # GSS25JFPHWW looking for the defrost timer on this one is it behind the ice maker in the freezer


Defrost is controlled by the mother board, behind small rectangular panel on back of refrigerator. Part # WR55X10942 . (you can not use the board to manually defrost) If you are having a defrost problem, the most likely cause is the defrost heater (WR51X10055) and while you're at it, you might as well replace the defrost thermistor (WR55X10025) located at the top of the cooling coils. Manually defrost freezer by unloading freezer, removing shelves, and removing back panel inside freezer, then use hair dryer to melt frost. (you have to take those parts off anyway to get at the heater and thermistor)

Mar 31, 2011 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

How to test defrost timer


Yours appears to have come with a Adaptive Defrost Control Part number 61005988 Usally when they go bad being electronic strange things happen.Defost stops or a fan and compressor. They are the most likely reason for defrost failure on your model. On the ADC for your model I dont believe you can manually get it to work for you. Just Replace, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Mar 25, 2010 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Leaking kenmore side byside Refridgerator . It seems to leakout the freezer door side. Ice builds up at the bottom or floor of the freezer.


If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model when ice is gone take back cover off find drain hole and clean

Aug 14, 2009 | Refrigerators

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