Hello I have Current that is flowing throught the neutral wire. This is not just in my house but the whole Colony we reside. We were been informed that that this can spoil our electrial equipments such as aclcd etc.. The electrical dep is unable to locate where the problem is . They state that the transformer is fine and have no clue why this is happening. I have a 9KV 3 Phase meter. Please advise if this can cause any hazardours to my electrial equipments or how can this be fixed
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Re: Current in Neurtal wire
First, what country are you residing in? There are
questions regarding what type of system you have
to whether the current readings are true RMS.
Assuming this is a WYE connected system, the
current flowing through a neutral wire are not hazardous.
The system can be slightly unbalanced, meaning one or
two phase legs is carrying more or less load than the first
phase leg. Ideally we would like a minimum amount carried
on the neutral but being in the real world, it is only theory.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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The white wire is neutral which is how the current makes a complete path through the fan then back to the panel and operates the motor. the replacement switch you have is a two speed black(high) red (low) switch. If you had 3 speeds before and wish to continue getting all 3 you will need to get a compatible switch. Otherwise eliminate the medium speed (blue) wire and use the switch you have. If the fan has a wire connector system just cut the copper tip even and place a orange cap of wire cap the size that fits tightly to provide good protection.
For a pH of 6.0 to 6.9 a type of naturally occurring calcium carbonate media called Calcite is used to neutralize the pH. For water with a pH of less than 6.0, magnesium oxide is blended with Calcite to bring the pH to 7.0 or above. The Calcite or the blend of media is put in either an up-flow neutralizer tank or a down-flow neutralizer tank.
Acid neutralizer water systems are typically installed after the well pressure tank.
In down-flow neutralizer tanks the media flows from the top of the media inside a vertical filter tank down to the bottom of the tank, and up a distributor tube and out of the filter to the household piping. Down-flow neutralizer tanks also act as filters since sediment and other fine particles become trapped in the Calcite. This type of neutralizer is automatically or manually backwashed to keep the media clean.
In an upflow neutralizer the water flows down through the center distributor tube and enters the media bed at the bottom and flows up through the media before exiting the neutralizer and flowing out to the plumbing. Up-flow neutralizers do not get backwashed because the media is never compacted and no sediment is removed. Since the water is flowing up through the media the media is not compacted to theoretically it does not require backwashing.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both up-flow and down-flow neutralizers. The main advantage of the down-flow neutralizer is that it not only neutralizes the water, it also acts as a whole house sediment filter. Down-flow neutralizers are usually automatically backwashed, which cleans the Calcite media and prevents rust particles and other sediment from fouling or coating the media. Since additional Calcite or blended media must be added to most neutralizers once or twice a year, down-flow neutralizers are easier to backwash and put back in service than up-flow neutralizers which cannot be backwashed.
Up-flow neutralizers must use an internal top screen in to order to prevent the Calcite from entering the home plumbing system. Calcite has the appearance of white sand and can quickly damage valves and fixtures if the media enters the plumbing system. If the water contains iron, manganese or sulfides, these internal top screens can later become fouled and so are generally are not used for this reason. Instead of the internal top screen, a filter housing and cartridge filter are usually installed after the up-flow neutralizer tank to prevent any mineral from flowing into the plumbing system. AdChoices With down-flow neutralizers these upper screens or external filter housings are unnecessary since the Calcite is prevented from leaving the filter tank due to the bottom internal distributor screen. The bottom distributor does not get easily fouled due to the backwashing the down-flow neutralizer tank receives on a regular basis.
In filter tanks the media can flow around the media and create channels which allow the water to flow without properly contacting the media. This type of channeling is more of a problem with up-flow neutralizers and rarely happens with down-flow neutralizers due to the action of the backwash. For most residential applications down-flow neutralizers work better than up-flow neutralizers due to the filtration feature and the backwashing function.
A down-flow neutralizer can be backwashed on a regular basis to clean, re-classify and distribute the calcium media thoroughly. This backwashing allows the down-flow neutralizer to function properly and lower maintenance costs. The Calcite media dissolves better because it is cleaned and then compacted in the down-flow neutralizer tank.
Well water that is acidic can also sometimes be high in iron, manganese or hydrogen sulfide. If a greensand or other type of manganese media iron filter is used to treat the water for iron, the pH should be raised up to at least 6.8 to allow the iron filter media to work properly. A down-flow neutralizer is usually the best choice to put in front of an iron filter because the neutralizer acts as a pre-filter removing some oxidized iron prior to the iron filter. This lessens the load of iron that the greensand filter must treat. Iron, manganese and sulfides can coat the acid neutralizer media and render it unable to dissolve into the water and neutralize the pH.
There are some applications where up-flow Calcite neutralizers are more desirable than down-flow neutralizers. If the flow is more or less constant on a regular basis, such as when the neutralizer is used to fill a holding tank with neutralized water, the up-flow filter works fine. Since up-flow neutralizers have no automatic backwash control valve they are less expensive than down-flow neutralizers. If the water is of excellent quality with no sediment or iron and the flow rate is constant then the up-flow neutralizer costs less to use and uses no backwash water.
The neutral never connects to a switch. The switch turns OFF hot wire to each light, while the neutral remains continuous throughout whole house. The neutral is like the ground wire in residential single-phase wiring: both remain unbroken and continuous throughout house. Copy following link for double switch wiring diagrams, including boxes with neutral wire and boxes without neutral wire: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#double
In sponge filters water is forced through porous foam. Water flowing though the sponge allows the growth of a colony of beneficial bacteria which neutralizes toxic ammonia. Most sponge filters uses two sponges attached to one lift tube which is an advantage that the sponges can be cleaned one at a time, reducing bacterial loss.
Hello, the most common reason this happens is because the solenoid valve is bad and remains open allowing water to flow continously regardless if the furnace is on or off. I assume you have either a sail switch or current sensing relay energizing the humidifier when the heat is on, if not thats another reason it would run continously.
Hello, In order for the humidifier to turn on and off you need either a sail switch or current sensing relay. A sail switch senses air flow and will turn on the humidifier when the blower motor kicks on and a current sensing relay senses current through the blower motors common wire. If you have either of theses hooked up already and the solenoid valve remains open then the solenoid valve must be replaced.
1. Has someone installed a generator backup 2. Are there any in-ground sprinkler systems installed? 3. Does anybody there use a water well and pump? 4. Do any houses have solar panels installed? 5. Is the copper earth ground wire on your main transformer pole intact, or has it been damaged or cut? 6. Are all of your other power poles properly grounded? 7 Are all the houses properly grounded near the power meter with an earth ground pole?
The main difference is how the ground and neutral are terminated. In a 3-wire configuration, ground and neutral are connected together at the terminal block. In a 4-wire configuration these two wires are independent of each and are NOT to be connected together. The neutral wire will be terminated at the terminal block, while ground is connected to the ground lug on the appliance cabinet.
NOTE: New contruction homes after the year 2000 all have 4-wire configurations and you are required to have a 4-prong cord. However, if the home is older and still has a 3-prong oullet you can continue to use a 3-prong cord. You can still purchase them at any hardware store.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.