Question about Philips Magnavox 42MF521D/37 Television

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Blue led is on solid no blinking but no high voltage on vs va vscan vset and ve test points. the three buffer boards were replaced after being blown. but still no pictureboard number is lj44-00092e

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  • Philips Master
  • 5,807 Answers

Hi

jshea1959,
blue led is on solid no blinking but no high - thumb_lj44-00092e.jpg LJ44-00092E SMPS Power Board
LJ44-00092E SMPS POWER BOARD (CBA SMPS)





These are links in which you can choose to :

a ) have it repaired

http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/LJ44-00092E-P11466C13.aspx


b ) DIY repair

PHILIPS MAGNAVOX Plasma Repair Kit for LJ44-00092E



http://cgi.ebay.com/PHILIPS-MAGNAVOX-Plasma-Repair-Kit-LJ44-00092E-/130391338223



c ) replaced

Philips 996500039214 Power Supply Item #: sj-996500039214




http://www.shopjimmy.com/philips-996500039214-power-supply.htm




Have a check also on the board for IC561( TO-220-4R package ),

50V 47uF cap

should you need to look for possible bad component


it may look like these:




5eb80b1.jpg

Hope these helps,

regards,

palaboy


Posted on May 20, 2010

  • 8 more comments 
  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 21, 2010

    these may looks like the board , you are having:







  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 31, 2010
  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana May 31, 2010

    • Adjust your solder tool so that a temperature around 360°C
    - 380°C is reached and stabilized at the solder joint.
    Heating time of the solder-joint should not exceed ~ 4 sec.


    Avoid temperatures above 400°C, otherwise wear-out of tips will rise drastically
    and flux-fluid will be destroyed. To avoid wear-out of tips, switch “off”
    unused equipment or reduce heat.

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jun 29, 2010

    Additional Info:





    From the table below, ( these can also be found labeled on the panel
    chassis )



    You may need to start measuring voltages from the Preconditioner ( VS )



    then the VA voltages to Vscan to the right of the guide.

















    You may need to have:





    a Multimeter





    How to use a multimeter





    And a lot of patience





    How to test for Continuity








    How to solder boards properly


    How to test MOSFET





    Here are some of the schematics :







  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jun 29, 2010

    One possible cause is the PWM Generator ( oscillator )

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jun 30, 2010




    • here is additional info on :





  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jun 30, 2010



    continuation:








  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jun 30, 2010

    7610

  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jul 02, 2010


    • additional info:







  • Rommel Cana
    Rommel Cana Jul 02, 2010

    additional info:













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  • Philips Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Download.p4c.philips.com/files/.../42mf521d_37/42mf521d_37_pss_aen.pdf
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/equipment_mfg/MAGNAVOX_2.html
www.scribd.com/.../Philips-Training-Manual-TV-Plasma-Display-Panel-Chasis-FTV1-9 -
www.scribd.com/.../Philips-Training-Manual-TVHD-Chasis-L05HD -
www.scribd.com/.../Philips-q528e-Service-Training-Manual-Part2 - 22 hours ago -
At top link is your user manual, below that are a pair of service and repair manuals, below them are some training manuals so you can better understand how it all works. Please get them all they are very valuable resources. And, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's) Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, magnifying glass or eyepiece, a good strong Light. OH and you MUST have the original remote control too, as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.



So, it is nearly always my professional opinion that one should always get a "Quote" form the manufacturers recommended service center, Philips, in your case, i recommend you contact a local or head office and ask for a referral to an authorised service center. I cannot stress how important that last point is. It is even worth the cost of shipping. you see an authorised service agent, will have trained staff, trained on their brand, also they have first hand access to parts, original parts. This will actually save you money and ensure you can actually get it back fixed. Of course asking for a "Quote" also gives on the option of repair or replace. Often my clients,do not go through with repair, unless it is moderate, but in some of the more costly jobs they see it, as do i, that a replacement, with a warranty, is a better option. As an aside here, one could then tear the TV down, and sell the Known Good bits. You'd be surprised who needs parts, i myself often must by from third party sources to effect a repair. So money could be recouped, somewhat,and help out someone else.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • Joseph Shea May 16, 2010

    I have tried all the links and none worked most ststed the file or doc was not found on this server. What next. my model number of the set is 42mf231d/37b the boards replaced were lj92-01203a or lj41-02761a lower y buffer board which had a fried ic on it which burnt two surface diodes numbers d5018 d5009 resistors r5090 and r5028 these are on the lj92-01200a or lj41-02759a board both were replaced but the high voltages which fire the screen are not there but the low voltages are. my service manual is incomplete it is a early printing giving no info on the pdp and no parts list. there must be a newer printing avail. mine is in pdf format. i am using the 42pf5321d.pdf version from philips. i do have most all the test equipment you suggested. my scope is 40mhz dual trace i dont have a signal gen or tracer

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