Ignitors click I just got this range a few weeks ago. I've noticed lately when use one or more of the burners, I'll see and hear the other burners ignition clicking. There's no pattern to it and we double check to make sure the burners not in use are in the off position and the burners in use are not set to light the burner. For example, I might have the left rear on medium and I'll see and hear the ignitor for the right front burner clicking like it wants to fire it up. Even though the knob is in the off position. Wondering if this is something that needs adjusting or if the auto sensing flame ignition thing is out of whack. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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I have the same problem, believe it's a bad potentiometer on the two left extra low burners. The other four use a micro switch that you can hear click when you turn the knob. My problem is can't figure out how to remove control panel.
Hello, when you turn on one of the burner, can you hear some clicking while you
turn on one of the burners? This is an electric ignitor, and when you turn one
burner on all the burner ignitor will click.
It is possible, that you are turning your burners on the stove to quick. Take
a look at one of knobs and you will see ignition--low---medium---high. To get
the burning ignited the knob needs to be position at the ignition site. You'll
hear it click-click-click and the burner will ignite.
Now, the oven. The oven ignitor is on a time delay. You will push the bake
button and across the screen will say something like this "Please set oven
temperature" You'll set the oven temperature to---let say 350 degrees---. Then
the screen will say "push start button" then you push the start button to turn
your oven on. Now, the screen will say "pre" this means that the oven is
pre-heating the oven to your desired temperature. Before all this happens there
is ignitor in the oven and it has a heater on the ignitor in oven. This heater
will heat up to desired temperature and once it reaches the that temperature the
ignitor will ignite and the gas will turn on.
Why--one would say for this procedure. The old kitchen stoves had a very bad
habit of of flash over---that is gas will built up in the over and once the
pilot light ignited the gas---wussh and it blow the oven door open. These ovens
would sometimes huff too.
Therefore, take your time and your biscuit will be OK
I am sorry Sandan2. I didn't finish reading your question. Never mind on what
I said here.
If the burners will not shut off sometimes, then there could a gas regulator
One very important question. Is your kitchen stove using Natural Gas or
LPG--liquid Petroleum Gas?
If it is using either type of fuel as mention above. It is very important
that you contact Appliance repair person that is certified by the state that you
live in that he/she is license by the state to work with gas appliances.
I wish you luck, but it very it important that you contact a certified
Technician... Also, move the stove away from the wall and look behind it. There
a black gas pipe and at the end is a brass valve, Take wrench and turn the gas
valve off. The gas valve will have a stainless steel flex line attached to it,
and the other end is to your stove. Don't use your stove.
If those gas burners and the oven are leaking gas. There is possibility
to blow you and your family with your home up. Don't use the stove, Until you
have it check out...please. GB you/your family...stewbison
I am not sure how you tested the capacitor but your issue is a classic one for a bad capacitor. The second problem is not very clear. With that being said, the wire could be grounding somewhere other than the ignitor. Please clarify a little more and I will help you work thru this.
Hello, first of all, I'm posting a link that has diagrams of your dryer and all of the parts within. This will help you determine where the components are located that I'll be mentioning. Now, you may find your problem if you follow this guide half way through. But the problem is probably located somewhere within the burner. So when you pull up this link, look at the burner diagram, and you'll locat the things i'm talking about. http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=glgr341as3&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=4
I urge you to get some type of meter for testing, whether it be a voltohm analog style meter, or even a digital one. They will be around 10 dollars for the anolog version, and 20 dollars and up for the digital versions. Dont let it intimidate you if you dont know how to use one. I've posted a link below that will show you EXACTLY how to use it for these tests. At the very bottom of the everything, I'm posting a few links that will show you how to change the defective parts out.
If you're lucky enough to have a viewing port; To observe the burner, look for a small cap located on the front of the dryer. either to the left or the right. You can pry it off with a flat head screwdriver. This cap is a viewing port to observe the burner assembly. Now you want to start the dryer on a cycle that will require the dryer to engage the burner. You are waiting to see if the ignitor is going to glow; knowing this will cut the possible causes of gas dryer heating problems in half. If you dont have one of these holes to see through, you will have to remove the top and front of the dryer.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, you know that it's okay, you also know that the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer is okay. NEXT, you'll want to see if it turns OFF. If it didnt I'll cover that later. If the ignitor clicks off after a few seconds of glowing bright orange, You know that the flame switch mounted to the left of the burner tube is OKAY as well. At the moment the click of the flame switch is observed, the burner valve should release gas for burner ignition. If the ignitor turns off with no ignition, and you are positive you're getting gas supply to the dryer, you likely will have to replace the two coil valve solenoids on the top of the burner. The valve itself is extremely reliable and rarely needs replaced. The two safety coils may gradually fail over weeks, or even months giving longer dry times and only partial heating. As safety coils are failing, they'll work fine for only a short amount of time, and then after about 30 minutes of cycling on and off to maintain the drum's temperature, they will break down and cease to open the valve leaving you with cool or wet clothing at the end of the cycle.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF you likely have a bad flame switch (flame sensor).
Perhaps; THE IGNITOR DOESN'T HEAT UP AT ALL, you will have to check the possible causes in order of likelihood. You will need to check......... 1. THE THERMAL FUSE- This is usually a small white strip with two wires attached. It is designed to burn out when it senses that the dryer has reached an unsafe temperature. If you find it to be the problem, you'll want to make sure that the ducting is moving air out of the house unobstructed. The easiest way to check this fuse is a voltohm meter. You can get them for under 20 dollars. Dont worry, I've posted a link at the top that shows you how to use one. Dont be intimidated by it, it's super easy once you know a few details of how to use it. http://applianceassistant.com/safety/how_to_use_a_volt_meter.php OK, back to the thermal fuse. Make sure dryer is unplugged, disconnect the two wires on the fuse, You will set the meter to read ohms on the lowest setting. The setting is usually RX1, or RX1K. Touch a test lead to each terminal and you should get a reading of ZERO ohms (you could also say ZERO resistance), meaning that the fuse is allowing electricity to flow through it and on to the IGNITOR. IF> you the fuse tests open, you'll need to replace it. IF it's okay, you need to keep going. Now you need to lift the top and remove the front. From the inside, you can see the burner valve, the valve coils, the ignitor, and the flame switch a little better now.
SNENARIO: The ignitor isn't glowing, you've tested the thermal fuse and it was okay. Now you want to test the FLAME SWITCH and the IGNITOR.
TO TEST THE IGNITOR: You will use the same test for the thermal fuse. Disconnect the plug coming directly of the wires of the ignitor. The plug on the ignitor side will have two prongs in it. You will touch the meter's leads to these two prongs. This time you should get a little resistance, meaning if you're using an anolog voltohm meter, the needle should be just a touch above zero. If the needle doesnt move at all, that means that it's open and "BAD." If the IGNITOR tests okay, then move on to the flame switch.
TO TEST THE FLAME SWITCH: Test it the same way as the fuse and the ignitor. Remove the 2 wires that are connected to it. Remove the screw that holds the flame switch on and take it out to test it. Touch the 2 test leads to the terminals that the wires were connected to. This should look the same as the fuse, having ZERO resistance. This means that power can flow freely. If the needle doesn't move at all, then the resistance is infinity, meaning the component is bad. You should use caution when removing the wires from the flame switch, you should support the terminal with a pair of needle nose pliers and use another pair of pliers to remove the connectors from the terminals of the flame switch. You should never pull the wires themselves.
If all of these components are okay, then you've successully completed the common 90% of heating problems in a gas dryer. Any component that is tested above should be replaced if it tests bad. The other 10% should be left to a technician. You need to have an understanding of your wiring diagram specific to that dryer to see where the problem is in the circuits. MOST of the time, your problem should be solved before you even get to this point.
Sound`s to me you need a new hot surface ignitor. Sorry to hear you may have changed the valve & regulator for nothing, but that happen`s quite often when you get the symptom`s you`ve described, I`ve even seen tech`s. do it. The reality is 9 times out of 10 when a hot surface ignition gas/lpg oven won`t light it is the ignitor.
Pick up part number 74007498 for approx. $40 and you`ll be cooking.
Hope that help`s. If so please take a second and rate the solution I provided here at fixya for you.
Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. Amperage should be 2.5-3A. If less than 2.5A - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace. Ignitor part numbers : WB2X9154, 4342528, SGR403, 5304401265;
Those ignitors are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires. If not comfortable splicing wires - replace it with the first one in the list, should be direct replacement.