Question about Jenn-Air JGS9900BDS Stainless Steel Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Ignitors click I just got this range a few weeks ago. I've noticed lately when use one or more of the burners, I'll see and hear the other burners ignition clicking. There's no pattern to it and we double check to make sure the burners not in use are in the off position and the burners in use are not set to light the burner. For example, I might have the left rear on medium and I'll see and hear the ignitor for the right front burner clicking like it wants to fire it up. Even though the knob is in the off position. Wondering if this is something that needs adjusting or if the auto sensing flame ignition thing is out of whack. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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  • Matt Thomas Mar 31, 2008

    thanks for replying. the problem is that the clicking continues until we are done with the burners. last night we boiled water on one of the burners, yet all the other burner ignitors were clicking the whole time we boiled water....we made sure that the other burners were in the off position. any other thoughts?

  • Matt Thomas Apr 01, 2008

    thanks again for replying, i appreciate it. could there be any other cause? this has been happening for the last 10 days or so. we thought it was just something that would go away since it was brand new. but we haven't really had the need to wash it yet, just a cloth across the cook top is all, no water or excessive moisture in or on the burners themselves. ?????

  • Anonymous Apr 24, 2008

    We're having the same problem as Matt Thomas. We just bought our range last week. Model is different, Jenn-Air JGS8860BDP. The service tech says this is a gas pressure problem. Since Matt is having the same problem, I think its a Jenn-Air problem!

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2008

    it is a jenn air problem. service for 1.5 years and no solution. they have checked the gas pressure, changed the ignitors, changed the plates. Tech says because I am high altitude but don't think that is it either. Mine is when i put on the double burner.. I also have broiler problem and fan for convection. They are going to replace. mine is a double burner. The model I see now says triple burner. does anyone have a triple burner that still has this problem? best solution for 1 year was to shave down near where ignites and turn cap upside down and not turn to full btu for power boiling. This helped for awhile but started failing again



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Thats normal long as they all quit after the one your using lites and you turn it off light

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

  • robert samples Mar 31, 2008

    if you got water down in them then it should stop in a couple of days when they dry this happens when people wash the tops too just wait a couple of days

  • robert samples Apr 01, 2008

    no thats too long if you just got this range then call for service its still under warrenty



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Hello, when you turn on one of the burner, can you hear some clicking while you turn on one of the burners? This is an electric ignitor, and when you turn one burner on all the burner ignitor will click.

It is possible, that you are turning your burners on the stove to quick. Take a look at one of knobs and you will see ignition--low---medium---high. To get the burning ignited the knob needs to be position at the ignition site. You'll hear it click-click-click and the burner will ignite.

Now, the oven. The oven ignitor is on a time delay. You will push the bake button and across the screen will say something like this "Please set oven temperature" You'll set the oven temperature to---let say 350 degrees---. Then the screen will say "push start button" then you push the start button to turn your oven on. Now, the screen will say "pre" this means that the oven is pre-heating the oven to your desired temperature. Before all this happens there is ignitor in the oven and it has a heater on the ignitor in oven. This heater will heat up to desired temperature and once it reaches the that temperature the ignitor will ignite and the gas will turn on.

Why--one would say for this procedure. The old kitchen stoves had a very bad habit of of flash over---that is gas will built up in the over and once the pilot light ignited the gas---wussh and it blow the oven door open. These ovens would sometimes huff too.

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I am sorry Sandan2. I didn't finish reading your question. Never mind on what I said here.

If the burners will not shut off sometimes, then there could a gas regulator problem.

One very important question. Is your kitchen stove using Natural Gas or LPG--liquid Petroleum Gas?

If it is using either type of fuel as mention above. It is very important that you contact Appliance repair person that is certified by the state that you live in that he/she is license by the state to work with gas appliances.

I wish you luck, but it very it important that you contact a certified Technician... Also, move the stove away from the wall and look behind it. There a black gas pipe and at the end is a brass valve, Take wrench and turn the gas valve off. The gas valve will have a stainless steel flex line attached to it, and the other end is to your stove. Don't use your stove.

If those gas burners and the oven are leaking gas. There is possibility to blow you and your family with your home up. Don't use the stove, Until you have it check out...please. GB you/your family...stewbison

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I am not sure how you tested the capacitor but your issue is a classic one for a bad capacitor. The second problem is not very clear. With that being said, the wire could be grounding somewhere other than the ignitor. Please clarify a little more and I will help you work thru this.

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Dryer wont fire up glow plug lights up the you hear click and shut down then 30 seconds later it'll repeat its a model # GLGR341AS3 Frigidaire dryer any advice would be helpful THANK YOU

Hello, first of all, I'm posting a link that has diagrams of your dryer and all of the parts within. This will help you determine where the components are located that I'll be mentioning. Now, you may find your problem if you follow this guide half way through. But the problem is probably located somewhere within the burner. So when you pull up this link, look at the burner diagram, and you'll locat the things i'm talking about.

I urge you to get some type of meter for testing, whether it be a voltohm analog style meter, or even a digital one. They will be around 10 dollars for the anolog version, and 20 dollars and up for the digital versions. Dont let it intimidate you if you dont know how to use one. I've posted a link below that will show you EXACTLY how to use it for these tests. At the very bottom of the everything, I'm posting a few links that will show you how to change the defective parts out.

If you're lucky enough to have a viewing port; To observe the burner, look for a small cap located on the front of the dryer. either to the left or the right. You can pry it off with a flat head screwdriver.
This cap is a viewing port to observe the burner assembly. Now you want to start the dryer on a cycle that will require the dryer to engage the burner. You are waiting to see if the ignitor is going to glow; knowing this will cut the possible causes of gas dryer heating problems in half. If you dont have one of these holes to see through, you will have to remove the top and front of the dryer.

IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, you know that it's okay, you also know that the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer is okay.
NEXT, you'll want to see if it turns OFF. If it didnt I'll cover that later. If the ignitor clicks off after a few seconds of glowing bright orange, You know that the flame switch mounted to the left of the burner tube is OKAY as well.
At the moment the click of the flame switch is observed, the burner valve should release gas for burner ignition. If the ignitor turns off with no ignition, and you are positive you're getting gas supply to the dryer, you likely will have to replace the two coil valve solenoids on the top of the burner. The valve itself is extremely reliable and rarely needs replaced.
The two safety coils may gradually fail over weeks, or even months giving longer dry times and only partial heating. As safety coils are failing, they'll work fine for only a short amount of time, and then after about 30 minutes of cycling on and off to maintain the drum's temperature, they will break down and cease to open the valve leaving you with cool or wet clothing at the end of the cycle.

IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF you likely have a bad flame switch (flame sensor).

Perhaps; THE IGNITOR DOESN'T HEAT UP AT ALL, you will have to check the possible causes in order of likelihood. You will need to check.........
1. THE THERMAL FUSE- This is usually a small white strip with two wires attached. It is designed to burn out when it senses that the dryer has reached an unsafe temperature. If you find it to be the problem, you'll want to make sure that the ducting is moving air out of the house unobstructed.
The easiest way to check this fuse is a voltohm meter. You can get them for under 20 dollars. Dont worry, I've posted a link at the top that shows you how to use one. Dont be intimidated by it, it's super easy once you know a few details of how to use it.
OK, back to the thermal fuse. Make sure dryer is unplugged, disconnect the two wires on the fuse, You will set the meter to read ohms on the lowest setting.
The setting is usually RX1, or RX1K. Touch a test lead to each terminal and you should get a reading of ZERO ohms (you could also say ZERO resistance), meaning that the fuse is allowing electricity to flow through it and on to the IGNITOR. IF> you the fuse tests open, you'll need to replace it. IF it's okay, you need to keep going.
Now you need to lift the top and remove the front.
From the inside, you can see the burner valve, the valve coils, the ignitor, and the flame switch a little better now.

SNENARIO: The ignitor isn't glowing, you've tested the thermal fuse and it was okay.
Now you want to test the FLAME SWITCH and the IGNITOR.

You will use the same test for the thermal fuse. Disconnect the plug coming directly of the wires of the ignitor. The plug on the ignitor side will have two prongs in it. You will touch the meter's leads to these two prongs. This time you should get a little resistance, meaning if you're using
an anolog voltohm meter, the needle should be just a touch above zero. If the needle doesnt move at all, that means that it's open and "BAD." If the IGNITOR tests okay, then move on to the flame switch.

Test it the same way as the fuse and the ignitor. Remove the 2 wires that are connected to it. Remove the screw that holds the flame switch on and take it out to test it. Touch the 2 test leads to the terminals that the wires were connected to. This should look the same as the fuse, having ZERO resistance. This means that power can flow freely. If the needle doesn't move at all, then the resistance is infinity, meaning the component is bad. You should use caution when removing the wires from the flame switch, you should support the terminal with a pair of needle nose pliers and use another pair of pliers to remove the connectors from the terminals of the flame switch. You should never pull the wires themselves.

If all of these components are okay, then you've successully completed the common 90% of heating problems in a gas dryer. Any component that is tested above should be replaced if it tests bad.
The other 10% should be left to a technician. You need to have an understanding of your wiring diagram specific to that dryer to see where the problem is in the circuits. MOST of the time, your problem should be solved before you even get to this point. FLAME SENSOR REPLACEMENT. GAS VALVE SOLENOID REPLACEMENT HOW TO REPLACE AN IGNITOR

GOOD LUCK. I will be happy to assist you further if you need me to. I hope this helps solve your problem.



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Pick up part number 74007498 for approx. $40 and you`ll be cooking.

Hope that help`s. If so please take a second and rate the solution I provided here at fixya for you.

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macmarkus :)

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