Question about Goodman CLT60AER60 Air Conditioner

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Condensor fan won't run.

I have an older Goodman 3 ton (15 yrs old) and the condensor fan blade cut through one of the fan wires. The wires on this unit run through a piece of plastic pipe that is position above the fan blades. That pipe and wires fell onto the blades and one of the 3 wires was cut. I was easily able to splice the wire but the fan still won't work. Could the cut have caused something else to go bad?
I have twin units and the other one runs fine, so if needed I can swap parts to confirm whats bad. Just need to know what to try.

Thank you!

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The fan motor runs on 220 volts (2 - 110volt legs and 1 - common - hence 'three wires') - and when the wire was cut I suspect it cut thru a 'hot' leg - leaving you with the other 'hot' leg and the 'common,' effectively putting - 110 volts to your motor - which 'burned it up,' electrically.

Another possibility is that when the wire was cut - it could of 'cut your fan capacitor' out of the circuit - but I tend to doubt this because the internal overload should of protected it.

I'd change the motor.

good luck!



Posted on May 16, 2010

  • icemelts
    icemelts May 19, 2010

    Usually, three copper wires come into the home. Two are covered in black insulation and one has white insulation. Sometimes one wire is red instead of black. Each black or red wire is called a "hot" wire and has 110-volt AC. The white wire is called the "common" and is grounded at the power station. Measuring across the two hot wires results in 220 volts. Measuring the voltage between a black (or red) and white wire, results in 110-volt AC.

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Check the fuse, you may have shorted.. so some mfgrs put a fuse so that you don't cook the circuit board.
Best of luck

Posted on May 16, 2010

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The 3rd wire is not a common ground but just chassis safety ground.
With 220, there can never be a neutral ground.
The voltage must always be across the two power wires 180 out of phase. So the loss of one wire could never have cause a device to burn out.

In which case it is probably a fuse that blew when the metal blade pierced the insulation.

Easy enough to tell. Just open the splice back up and test for 110 volts to chassis ground or 220 across the two power leads.

Posted on May 17, 2010

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