Question about Weber Genesis Silver B Grill

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One of the two bars which ignite will not ignite.

Once turned on, only one bar will light. Not much heat coming out from one bar.

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When you say bar, do you mean burner? Click on my username and scroll down on my profile til you find my tips and tricks on gas grill lighting issues. Maybe it can help.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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I have a Brivis Buffalo 85, pilot light is on main burners will not ignite when turned on? It seems like gas isnt allowed to bar which turns on main burners

Usually a thermocouple or similar device is employed to allow fuel to flow once the unit sees that there is sufficient heat to ignite the fuel. Otherwise it can be a fuel valve that "sees" an unusual flow of gas which sets off the safety.

May 07, 2014 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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We have a Raypak Water Heater Boiler Model # H9-2002. Our problem is the boiler don't give to much heat The Safety Ignition light is red and I check the Fenwal Diagnostic Status Codes it is blinking 3...

is it a combi boiler pressure system if it is they need about 6 bar of water you have to top them up once in a while there are taps on them you turn one off and the other on dont turn the gas one off look at the instuctions you will hear the water coming in and turn it off when it gets to 6 bar about half way up on your gauge do not fill up passed the red line its about half way between 0 and the red

Nov 06, 2011 | Pool & Spa

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After ten minutes the dryer stops and the filter light is lit

The glow-bar system sends electric current through a heating type of element until it glows hot enough to light the gas (this is used on most older style dryers) An I.R. sensor (infrared sensor) determines when the glow-bar is hot enough to light the gas, it then sends a signal to the gas valve to turn on.

To test this system, open the front cover where the burners are; start the dryer in the heat cycle; you should see the glow bar getting red hot (the glow-bar sits inside the burner box just above the burner tubes - there are two types; a round one that has spirals, and a flat one that looks like half of a coat hanger except smaller. If you have a hard time identifying them go look at the pictures of them in the store section) If nothing glows you will need to take a voltage reading across the glow-bar leads (there are 2) as you first start the dryer. No voltage means it's something else. Voltage means replace the bar (a replacement glow-bar should be kept in stock).

If the glow-bar lights and does not go off then the I.R. Sensor has failed. (I usually replace the glow-bar along with the I.R. sensor because one will take the other out, and it's just good maint. procedure to do as such.)

If the glow-bar lights for about a minute then goes off and you do not hear a click sound come from the gas valve (this click sound is the coil in the gas valve opening) then it's probably a bad gas valve coil (see below). If the glow-bar lights, then turns off (in about a minute) and the gas valve clicks on (and you can hear and/or smell that the gas valve is open) the burner tube holes are plugged and/or the glow-bar needs to be adjusted closer to the burner tube. To clean the burner tubes, you can either shoot compressed air into them, or remove them and run water through them. If it's an older dryer it's best to remove them and run water through them so as to get all the compressed lint completely out.
If you have a spark ignition (looks like a spark plug wire from a fact it is.) The way that this system works is, instead of lighting the gas with a glow-bar, it lights it with a spark. To test the system, open the burner cover, turn the dryer on in heat mode, you should hear the gas valve click, and the spark igniter sparking, (in fact, it may even light the gas, but then goes right back off.) If this is the case then most likely the ignition cable is bad. Most people think that just because they can hear the spark, and see the gas light that the cable is OK, however, the ignition module sends a small amount of voltage the opposite direction through ground, through the fire, and through the high voltage ignition cable back to the ignition unit to let it know that the gas has lit. If the ignition cable has a even the slightest crack in the carbon core cable; that small amount of voltage cannot jump that crack like the higher voltage.... So replace the cable. (if it's a weekend and your faced with a downed dryer; either buy one from an auto parts store, or borrow one from someone's car...) The other thing that it may be is plugged burner tubes, if it looks like there is a lot of lint in the burner compartment you may want to try blowing out the burner tubes or removing them and rinsing them out with water.

Check circuit breaker. If it's a 220V machine be sure you have all legs of your power.

Check your neutral leads (I can't tell you how many times I've seen wire nuts come loose...) I've also had alot of power cords (especially 120V) go bad; check them.

Check control fuses, there's usually more than one. Sometimes they put them in the computer control board.

If there is a transformer in the main circuit (There may be two-one for the heat circuit, the other for the control circuit) be sure to make sure you have incoming and out going voltage according to the schematic voltage or it should say on the transformer.

Make sure door switch is adjusted properly or hasn't failed.

Check belt or chain.

Check the conduit going into the motor, sometimes older motors get hot and the mount fails causing them to rotate in their craddle and pulling out the conduit and wires. After repairing the wires you can run a large hose clamp around the motor so as to secure it. This will keep you going long enough until it's replaced.

If the dryer works only while you hold the start button on, it means the start circuit in the motor has failed (120V - 220V single phase system) I've seen people put tape over the button, however this should only be a temp. fix...replace the motor. For a three phase system, it's most likely the start relay is bad.
Be sure to check the main start contactor, these seem to fail quite frequently, they are usually located behind the dryer in the rear control panel.

Dec 21, 2010 | Bosch Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?

If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Glow bar starts, gas valve opens, gas start burning in all four ports, glow bar turns off and gas valve closes. no flame roll-out is it the board bad?

Depending upon how long the burners stay on it could be a bad or dirty flame rod, read on.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 16, 2010 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Dryer turns on. no heat and timer does not advance?

sounds like glow bar or photo sensor not working properly. should be access panel to veiw ignition system, if glow bar turns white hot when dryer is started, try to clean face of photo senser and re-start. unplug dryer before cleaning sensor. timer will not start until dryer comes up to temp.

May 15, 2009 | Maytag SDG4606A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

The oven doesn't work ,the ignator doesn't light up. no gas coming

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

Nov 02, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

4 Answers

Does not heat

There is NO starter on a gas dryer burner assembly. The burner is controlled by gas valve coils and a glow bar igniter. Once the igniter reaches the appropriate current level, the gas valves open and you have ignition. The common problem is a weak igniter. You need to do a current measurement to make sure the igniter is within tolerance. If it is within specs, then I would agree with docjohn174 about replacing the coils. If its not within specs, you need to replace the igniter. Depending on the type of igniter you have, the current rating is as follows:


Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

I still need an accurate model number in order to confirm WHICH type of igniter you have.

Oct 03, 2008 | Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Oven won't heat

try replacing the oven igniter/ glow bar the thing you see light up it sounds like it is weak you can tell if it glows with a white color in the bar it should glow a bright orange color

Aug 28, 2007 | Tappan TGFS_63 Gas Kitchen Range

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