Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Water filled...attempts to start the wash cycle, but stops. will not wash, spin, or drain.

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  • Master
  • 1,937 Answers

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities: (MOST LIKELY THE FIRST)


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Posted on May 15, 2010

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SOURCE: fixn my GE washer spin cycle

you are correct, the "leak" was from the over flow, and the "no spin" were all caused by the incorrect level indication. could not blow out the tubing so I replaced it...everything works fine now. thanks for your help!

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SOURCE: WFD 2460 will not start wash cycle after it has filled with water

Isolate power and water supply and gain access to the main drum motor. Check for condition of carbon brushes by removing them and repla
ce if severely worn. Check wiring loom around motor and right back to module controller. The clicking is obviously power being supplied to motor via the loom to the motor. finally check for any dry solder joints or burnt areas on the circuit board controlling the motor.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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SOURCE: Control panel reads E61 at wash cycle and E66 and drain and spin

Can you tell me what make this machine is? As it sounds like a heater problem??

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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SOURCE: Kenmore front-load washer stops at rinse cycle

When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

dblred
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine stops mid-cycle, water doesn't drain

Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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