Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Two possibilities: (MOST LIKELY THE FIRST)
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the
transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on May 15, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: fixn my GE washer spin cycle
you are correct, the "leak" was from the over flow, and the "no spin" were all caused by the incorrect level indication. could not blow out the tubing so I replaced it...everything works fine now. thanks for your help!
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
Isolate power and water supply and gain access to the main drum motor. Check for condition of carbon brushes by removing them and repla
ce if severely worn. Check wiring loom around motor and right back to module controller. The clicking is obviously power being supplied to motor via the loom to the motor. finally check for any dry solder joints or burnt areas on the circuit board controlling the motor.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
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During Drain Routine
During the Drain Routine, the water level is checked continuously. Normal drain will occur until the
pressure switch senses no water in the wash tub and there is no foam (suds). The drain pump will
operate an additional 15 seconds after the pressure switch reports no water or foam.
If the drain routine operates for four (4) minutes and the pressure switch senses any foam (suds) in
the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will start the "Kill-Foam" Routine. (See description of this
Routine below.) After the Kill-foam Routine is concluded, the Drain Routine will restart. If, after
four (4) minutes the pressure switch still senses foam in the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will
go into Failure Mode. The digital display will show, F02.
During Spin (Extract) Routine
During the Spin/Extract Routine the water level is checked continuously. If, during this routine, the
pressure switch senses the presence of foam (suds) in the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will
stop the drive motor and the basket will stop spinning. The electronic control will count the number
of spin repetitions that are attempted due to foam (suds). There are a maximum of three (3)
attempts for each Spin/Extract Routine.
1. The Remaining Time counter is stopped.
2. The digital display shows Sud.
3. The Drain Pump is turned OFF.
4. The Central Control Unit will fill the wash tub with 1 gal. (4 L) of cold water.
5. While the tub is filling the basket will tumble 1 sec. ON/15 Sec. OFF.
6. Once the tub is filled, the drive motor will turn OFF and the basket will rest without any
movement for five (5) minutes.
7. After the five (5) minute rest, the remaining time counter will restart and the digital display
will show the remaining time left in the routine.
NOTE: If the Kill-Foam routine was initiated during a Spin/Extract Routine, the tumbling action
will be reduced to a cycle of 3 sec. ON/13 sec. OFF. If, at the end of either the Drain or Spin/
Extract Routines, a suds condition still remains, the digital display will show Sud.
Sud will also be displayed for a short period at the end of a cycle, if a Suds condition was
detected during the cycle. This will alert the consumer to reduce the amount of detergent in
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