Question about Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator

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I am not getting any water, I have changed to filter but still no water. i also check the water line , it's working. i also blew high pressured air thru the line to see if there is blockage, but no water. help!

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. The inlet valve assembly will be the culprit, here.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink or at the rear of your unit). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Posted on May 15, 2010

  • 29 more comments 
  • talessib May 15, 2010

    water inlet valve were do you find this, do I have to take off the panel in the back

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    If you would kindly post the entire model number, i will post a link to the necessary diagrams to help with this inspection. The valve is usually mounted on a bracket on the lower rear section of your unit. just follow the water lines from the wall to the refrigerator valve section on the backside.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    Most units of this nature will have the inlet valve exposed, but in your case, a panel may need to be removed to expose the entire valve for extraction...

    Please post the model number of the unit, asap.

    Thanks..


  • talessib May 15, 2010

    mf d2561heb sin 10801406gj

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    Thank you, one moment please...

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    Thank you for your patience. Ok, CLICK HERE to be directed to the diagram of the rear section of the cabinet. The affected apart you will be looking for is labeled number 10 on the diagram provided. The access panel that you will need to remove will be labeled number 1.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    The valve cover plate will be labeled number 2 on the diagram. The valve assembly will be directly behind the valve cover plate.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    I don't think it is unnecessary for the main concealment plate, on the compressor side, to be removed. i think you should be able to access the valve by just removing the valve access plate. it is much smaller.

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    water inlet valve the connection are fine , now what

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects: where is this/ on the diagram

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    The filter screens are a integrate part of the valve assembly. once you have pulled the lines always from the valve, look into the section of the valve where the lines go. This is where the filter screens are located. make sure there are no calcium build up in this area. you can take a toothbrush and clean this area, if needed. if the screens are clear, move on to the electrical testing procedure i have typed, above.

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    what # is it on the diagram

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    The filter screens are not labeled on the diagram, due to the fact that, they are not an external part. These screens are integrated into the dual valve assembly, which is one whole piece.

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    integrate part of the valve assembly: # is this

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    The screens are inside each valve opening. you will need to look into each valve opening(where the lines are fitted) to inspect for clogs.




  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    number 10

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    Do I just pull the water line out or do I use a screw driver to pry it away from the assembly

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    it's plastic I don't want to break it

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    These plastic lines just fit in the orifice. gently push and turn, slightly, while pulling after the slight turn to the left or right. It is not threaded or clipped.

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    okay the filter not blocked, Now what

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    There should be a connector on this unit that will need to be loosed to free the line. turn counter clockwise to release. all models differ, unfortunately.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    OK, now you will need to test the valve. I have posted the entire testing procedure above. follow carefully. you will need a multimeter in order to perform this necessary test.

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    okay that is fine, could there be a block by the filter connection inside the fridge

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    When did you install this filter? It may have reached its operational time limit. When this occurs, the filter will stop all water flow to the dispenser and ice maker, as well. Check all lines to and from the ice maker and dispenser. if they are dry, the filter may be the culprit.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    If the filter is quite new, it may not be installed correctly, or there may be a blockage at the filter feed.

  • talessib May 15, 2010

    anyting?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    By the way, what were the valve reading on both valves?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 15, 2010

    There are two terminals on each valve. Both valve solenoids should read evenly(200 to 500 ohms). if one valve solenoid read lower than the other, this dose not constitute a working valve. Actually, any valve assembly that reads 250 or below should be replaced. Just a side note here....

  • talessib May 16, 2010

    so if they were 250 then replace them? where can I get the part?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 16, 2010

    The 200 or 250 mark is the bare minimum rating. it shows a weak solenoid structure. a good strong reading should be in the 300 to 500 reading range. This particular valve can be purchased at the link below.

    CLICK HERE

    Quick question:

    When attempting to retrieve water from the dispenser, do you hear any clicking at the solenoids at the valve, or at the back side of the dispenser, by any chance?

    Are all the lines completely dry inside the unit?


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 16, 2010

    Is the ice maker receiving water correctly?

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