Cone repair the copper wires on my cones melted how would i go forth with fixing them? they are pioneer champion series. 4 ohm

Yes, it can, subject to the possibility of small differences in performance that may or may not be noticable. I have just repaired a 1254MR BW (4 ohm) driver by replacing the basket with a 1208-4 SPS BWX (4 ohm) basket. There was some visible difference in the basket construction, but the new one fitted onto the old magnet assembly perfectly, and the mounting holes for fixing the driver into the enclosure are identically positioned. This was in one of a pair of Impulse 200 speakers (passive version), and after the repair I found no noticable difference between the two. However, I should mention that they are installed approx 15m apart in a fairly reverberant hall - this wasn't an accurate side-by-side comparison. Incidentally, the voice coil on the replaced 1254MR BW basket looked and tested perfect - the fault was in one of the flat copper tapes that connect between the voice coil and the joints on the cone, to which the flexible braid wires attach.

All you need is speaker wires or lamp electrical wires. Go to your local hardware store and ask for 16/2 AWG wire

cut the rubber like tarr coating of right at the cone. make you a longer wire that u can put in the broken wires place and sodern the wires back up. then finish by appling a heat resistant electrical addhesive at each connection. SOLVED

most likely its bad id suggest you get a replacement

sounds like maybe the wiring from the cone to the magnet is ripped or broken.... which is why when you push the cone in it works because it pushes it far enough to make the wires touch just barely, but when you let it go the wires seperate and you get no sound.

Your wire is built with slack, so when the cone goes in and out during a song, the wire can move with it and not get broken. but when you cone moves too in or too far out, then that wire can snap or become disconnected.

I have fixed this by soldering the copper wire, but you may lose some power because your copper wire might be a bit shorter(it will probly break again)... or you can lengthen it, but it is not easy to solder... some places will fix it for you but the cost may be more than what it is worth.

This is just a guess, take your speaker outta the box, and look to see if these wires are broken, lose, or frayed.

good luck.

Looks like a broken copper braid that links the speaker terminal to the cone (from there on it goes to the coil which is underneath the cone).

Check the speaker connection terminals (near the magnet), you will notice that each terminal has a copper braid wire going from that terminal to the speaker cone.

Inspect both braid wires carefully at each end (near the speaker terminal and near the speaker cone), there will either be some damage to the braid at one or more of these four locations or the braid could be actually broken at any of these spots.

The braid can actually be resoldered at the point where it's damaged or broken - this task will require good soldering skills, mainly because this kind of braid wires are difficuld to solder (they are a bit difficult to clean because of their structure and solder won't attach itself well to oxydized copper), but also because some speaker cones are made of plastic which may melt if you overheat it with a soldering iron.

Besides that, when resoldering is being done, only a very short portion of the braid should be wetted with solder because the solder point will become rigid when the solder cools down, and the braid needs to remain very flexible when the speaker operates (if it's too rigid or too short, damage to the speaker cone could occur or the braid could get broken again when the speaker will be playing at a loud volume).

Hope you can have it repaired, it can be done at home, but there are also speaker repair shops where you can get it done (i'm not sure about the prices though).

Anyway, the alternative is to replace the speaker itself.

regards

3rq8 (Triarcuate)

I would tie both + from the speakers to the radio, and both - as well. This will give an equal amount of power to both speakers and reduce the chance of blowing a speaker. As for +&- on the speakers, It is usually marked on the black piece right by the terminals. As little power as you are putting to the speakers, it doesn't really matter which way you hook them up, as long as they are both hooked up the same.

flip the speaker upside down n it should b a hole thats where the screw is a woffer is nothig but a cone n a magnet

Yes you can if you >
The term blown speaker can have several meanings. If it was not fixable I would say it was a blown speaker.

So 1st is it a Subwoofer or a midrange.
The Sub a little easier to fix you can send it Back to the maker of the sub and they will fix it ($)
If the cone is damaged then just use silicon
if the wires + - that are attached to the basket and the cone have fried .Soilder a new coper wire on
If the voice coil has ripped silicon
and if the copper coil is melted (you can see it but the cone will not move in or out Frozen) then this is a good time to replace it

You can go online and see if there are professional Repair kits

Thank You Please Rate this solution

First of all how many ohm's are each subwoofer rated at . Are the subwoofers dual voice coil or single voice coil. Once I know that I can help you. I think the JL amp is not recommended below a 2ohm load.