Question about Washing Machines
Washer goes through all the cycles except the spin cycle ???
Does your washer fill, agitate, then when it gets to the spin cycle it just stops? If this the case, this is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $25 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. The lid switch is available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Look for item number 11 (part #3949238). If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments. If I'm wrong about the symptoms, please post back and let me know.
Posted on Apr 01, 2008
This posting was very helpful, and saved me some money. Some as other posts for this comment, the plastic housing has poorly designed plastic tabs that hold the switch assembly together. I used stainless steel saftey wire along with a few dabs of crazy glue (careful not to spill onto the switcharm) and am back in business in about 35min.
One point to help folks with the troubleshooting section, the our symptom was that the tub finished washing but never drained, and I never heard the timer move forward, so I thought the problem was the timer switch, which was not the case.
Kudos for this solution, you helped me out! :)
Posted on Mar 08, 2010
I found this post very helpful. I didn't know anything about the washer. But since I am a DIY person, thought of looking at the internet for the solution and this post solved my problem. The lid switch was broken. It is made of plastic and for some reason it was broken. I unscrewed the lid switch and put a electrical tape over it and fixed it back to the washer. This resolved my problem.
Thank you guys for helping
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
Model# 110 24642300
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Sounds like the spin coil/brake solenoid is burnt out or broken. This is a coil situated on the motor plate under the machine with a lever attatched to it. When the machine goes into spin cycle, this solenoid pulls the brake away from the outer drum to allow the drum and agitator to spin together. The shaft that goes into this coil should move in and out freely. If tight, replace spin coil/brake solenoid.
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