It is located on the heating element airflow tube. Remove two large bolts located on the lid on the back. Now the top can slide back and off when you slide it back. The plastic control panel needs to come off now. Remove the 4 philips head screws on the top of the plastic panel. Rotate the top of the sloped panel so it is up and down being careful not to break it. This will disconnect the bottom of the panel which is latched at the bottom. Once the panel is loose lay it out of the way on top at the length of the cable. Remove the two screens on the door hinge. Remove the lower two screws at the bottom of the dryer opening. Remove the 4 screws at the top of the front panel. Lift the front panel, it latches at the bottom to the frame.
On the lower right side is a tube where air is sucked in, heated and pulled into the dryer drum. Slide the three spade connector pairs that are toward the middle of the dryer from the tstat, themal fuse and heating element. Take note of where they come from.
Remove the one philips screw at the bottom heating tube. The tube will now slide toward the front of the dryer and come out. The two devices will measure a minor resistance if they are good. The heating coil will measure a small resistance. The thermal fuse looks like a little metal can.
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When there's no power at all (no lights) it's probably not the thermal fuse, but the powersupply fuse or the powersupply itself. If you're tech-savy you can try using a multimeter on the inside connectors of the powersupply to see whether there is any power going to the dryer's circuitry at all. If that's the case; it might be fried internal electronics ...
There is a thermal fuse in the circuit between the dryer drive motor, and the dryer timer motor (control). It's physically located near the blower assembly. Whirlpool 33001762 Thermal Fuse AppliancePartsPros com There is a picture of it at this link. That's the only "fuse" I could find in the parts manual I have for the MLG2000AWW.
anytime a fuse trips it is due to too much load on a circuit-or over heating-tear down the machine and clean out lint look for it in the ducts that exhausts out of the house and even the outside flap-cheers Denny
Hello there and welcome to fixya Heating elementOften
a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker
or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special
wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity
means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating
elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is
burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside
the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually
embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the
fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To
determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, A
common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the
dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and
the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
I'll start by saying your post indicates it is a Maytag MDE9700AYW dryer. I'm not sure if you know this, but this particular Maytag is built by Samsung. To address your question as to where the thermal fuse is located on your dryer, it is one the heater housing, there is a hi-limit and a thermal fuse. If the Thermal fuse/safety is gone, replace the hi-limit as well. Here is a chart to identify which thermostat is which and it's location, the resitance value to check for and part number for replacement.
Once you've gain access to them you'll need to remove at least one wire to check the continuity...the values are shown in the above chart (basically it's either open or closed) As far as part, there are a couple of places I prefer, on-line at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com".
**unplug the appliance and turn off the gas supply before attempting any service...safety first** Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll do whatever I can. Good luck.
Ohm out the thermal fuse, if it is ok, then you can ohm out the heating element, be sure to visually check the element as well becqause it could just be shorted out internally giving you a reading, but first and foremost check your voltages be sure you are getting 240 across the outer plug spades and 120 volts from left to common and right to common, unplug this thing before you get into the element area or you could end up with a smokin fro !