Question about Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Maytag Dryer PYET244AYW won't turn on....

Recently my Dryer quit working and I thought it was the "switch", so I pulled that off and put the two loose wires together via electrical tape. That did not work. So I pulled the top part off (where the start button, buzzer and what kind of a dry you would want is located) and started playing with the OHM Reader/Meter. I have very little experience with this device but I noticed something odd. As I touched the probes to random wire endings of the start button (the one that has "shoter dry, longer dry, etc. on it) the OHMmeter would jump on all of them except the one the WHITE wire connects to. Now I am unsure what to do with that info. Does that mean that whatever that white wire goes to within the dryer is not working, the actual piece that I am checking is not working or something else altogether. Any help would be appreciated. My Dishwasher quit working 2 days later so I need to figure that out as well... :-)

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  • 1 more comment 
  • Jason Miner May 15, 2010

    I am getting 240 volts from the outlet so that is fine. Are you suppose to check the cord/plug itself? I checked with the OHMmeter and it jumped for the round plug & L shapped plug but not for the two side ones. Is that normal?

  • Jason Miner May 16, 2010

    I believe this will fix the issue...thanks....

  • Jason Miner May 18, 2010

    I included the previous thread below. I just checked the new thermal control I just purchased and the OHMmeter reads it exactly the same. So I would think that there is another issue somewhere. Any suggestions would be appreciated.



    Thanks,

    Jason





    ___________________________________________________________________________________

    Hi


    Thanks for using FixYa. It seems to be the issue with the Thermal Fuse going bad and needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Also, often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee





    May 15, 2010 - So is this something that would cause my dryer to completely stop working?


    May 15, 2010 - Yes right, also check for lint buildup around drive motor and Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.


    May 15, 2010 - ok, in trying to identify the thermal fuse, I found something in the front bottom near the vent duct that has 4 or 5 wires attached to it. I put my OHMmeter probes in different combinations on all 5 of them and all but one gets quite the jump on the OHMmeter but when I involve one of them it barely jumps and differs from the rest. Could that be my culprit or is that normal?


    May 15, 2010 - Yes right it can be the thermal limiter from what you have described so you need to replace it.


    May 15, 2010 - Ok, before I set this up to be shipped, I just want to double check. *Smile* It is part 53-2880 and it has 4 wires that were connected to it. When sticking the OHMmeter to it I was getting about 220 OHM's from the top one and the two side ones. The bottom (middle) one was getting 20-30 OHM's. You believe that means the piece is faulty? Thanks again...


    May 16, 2010 - Yes you are right. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 8,619 Answers

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. It seems to be the issue with the Thermal Fuse going bad and needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Also, often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on May 15, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • Jason Miner May 15, 2010

    So is this something that would cause my dryer to completely stop working?

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 15, 2010

    Yes right, also check for lint buildup around drive
    motor and Drive motor - start switch
    contacts stuck closed.

  • Jason Miner May 15, 2010

    ok, in trying to identify the thermal fuse, I found something in the front bottom near the vent duct that has 4 or 5 wires attached to it. I put my OHMmeter probes in different combinations on all 5 of them and all but one gets quite the jump on the OHMmeter but when I involve one of them it barely jumps and differs from the rest. Could that be my culprit or is that normal?

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 15, 2010

    Yes right it can be the thermal limiter from what you have described so you need to replace it.

  • Jason Miner May 15, 2010

    Ok, before I set this up to be shipped, I just want to double check. *Smile* It is part 53-2880 and it has 4 wires that were connected to it. When sticking the OHMmeter to it I was getting about 220 OHM's from the top one and the two side ones. The bottom (middle) one was getting 20-30 OHM's. You believe that means the piece is faulty? Thanks again...

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 16, 2010

    Yes you are right. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

×

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    An expert that got 10 achievements.

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  • Master
  • 2,468 Answers

Did you first check for 240 volts at the unit,then inspect the terminals and make sure all were still intact,these units carry a lot of current and terminals do burn off,if you lose 1 phase of power to the unit the drum will still turn,but it will no longer heat if its a 240volt element,did you check the thermal fuse in the dryer vent housing these go out regularly,then the high limit/cycling switch/thermostat,and ohm out the element all located on the element housing

Posted on May 15, 2010

  • Jason Miner May 15, 2010

    I am getting 240 volts from the outlet so that is fine. Are you suppose to check the cord/plug itself? I checked with the OHMmeter and it jumped for the round plug & L shapped plug but not for the two side ones. Is that normal?

  • danny Hendrickson May 15, 2010

    please check each wire for continuity or measure the 240 volts at the terminal strip inside the dryer where the cord terminates inside the unit

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