Question about Philips 50PL9126D/37B 50" DLP TV
I have philiips 50' #50pl9126d/37 2007 model yr. When i turn on the power button the power button blinks blue for about 25 seconds and no pictures come on screen. And i think its the lamp indicator light that comes on that looks like a sun and does not blink and stays on and i press the power button again and the blue lights blink and the red lamp light stays on for about 15 seconds and the power completely turns off. And i pulled out the lamp bulb and it looked good but i noticed a white cloud mist inside the bulb on the very inside bottom of bulb. You cant notice it looking directly at it. With a help of a flashlight you could see the white mist or cloud inside. Do you think i just need the lamp replaced or what???? i know most of the time when the lamp lights blink red its the lamp bulb but mine didnt blink it stayed on. What is your recommandation.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV, monitor or amplifier will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.
If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.
If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).
Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.
I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at ww.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.
Posted on Jul 17, 2011
It depends on whether you are able to see a clear image or not. check the lamp first if its more than 2 yrs old you may need a new one, last one we checked with the problem you describe had a fan running slow. The fan nearest the lamp needs to run correctly or the tv will shut down. Good luck !
Posted on Nov 11, 2011
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