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Hi, I have a De Dietrich microwave, model is

Hi I have a De Dietrich microwave model is MN2523E21. Inside on top is a circular flexible 'cover' which I think is the Wave Guide Cover. Where it is screwed in the cover is perished and is now detached. I thought it would be easy to make some new holes then replace. However having unscrewed a couple of screws the nuts they went into seem to have been displaced so the screws have now got nothing to screw into. Help please!!!!!!!

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: Removing Old Built-In Microwave

You did not note your Make and Model. As there are many different types, all I can give you are basic directions.
First make sure the Power Cord is UN-PLUGGED from the wall.

1. Remove the Top Vent Grille Cover. There are screws holding this on, either Three you can see (one on each side and one in the center), or Open the Door and look for screws at the top of the Frame that go Up Into the grille.
2. Look in cabinet above unit for screws that hold unit up. Usually two (one on each side, front), can be more. Remove.
3. Look where Top Vent Grille Cover was removed. There should be a Long Screw or Screw-Type Lock at each( top) corner. These hold the unit tight on the Wall-Mount Plate. Remove. You should have HELP at this point as you will slide the unit forward until it comes clear of the Support Arms.
GOOD LUCK!!

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

SOURCE: Waveguide cover for Kenmore microwave

Try replacing the screws with larger ones. Maybe you ordered the wrong piece, if your microwave comes with a mica cover (A fine, square piece of mica) and you received a plastic one, you will need to get the right piece or adapt the one you received.
You can get the mica cover on any microwave service.

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Lightbulb in Emerson microwave model MW8115 SS

Hello,

You have 3 choices to use on removing the safety screw(s) on the MW (microwave or nuker as I call them) cover.

1 - The screw(s) is/are usually a modified TORX T-20 or T-25 bit adapter. Sometimes you can very carefully use a standard T-20/25 bit adapter to get the screw loosened. Sometimes! If that doesn't work then you have option #2.

2 - If #1 doesn't work you can use a small flat blade screwdriver that has been modified with a slot cut into the center of the blade end to bypass the center pin. First find a narrow enough flat blade srewdriver that you don't care about anymore, and make sure it fits rather snugly inside the screw-head just for a loose fit. If the blade is a bit wider - no problem - it can be ground down to fit snugly. Next - using a dremel tool and diamond cutting wheel attachment (or similar) cut a slot into the end of the blade. Make sure that the screwdriver is going to bite the insides of that screw-head first though before wasting a perfectly good screwdriver. You will have to adjust by trial and error until you get the blade to fit perfectly the head of the safety screw. If the screws are really tight use a pair of vice grips to clamp the screwdriver blade for extra leverage.

If neither of these methods work for you or you can't modify a special tool then you will have to do the last option.

3 - Using an easy out of proper size drill out the center pin and then use the proper "easy out" to back out the screw. Discard that/those screw(s) and replace with regular phillips head screws after replacing the light bulb.

Hopefully you will be able to do this repair yourself? Otherwise if your neighbor is Tim the Toolman Taylor I'm sure he'll be able to give you the necessary hand to do it for you.

Hope this helps fix your dilema you are in.

One note here -

Make sure you unplug the nuker first and be VERY CAREFUL as to NOT TOUCH the HIGH VOLTAGE CAPACITOR inside. Otherwise you risk a chance of SEVERE HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK!!!!!!!!!

BE VERY CAREFUL....

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: GE Microwave is arcing inside

Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck to the inside of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

The waveguide cover is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.

In some models it is the plastic ceiling.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced.

If you need more specific help, please reply back with your brand and full model number.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Repalce Door handle on GE Profile model number SCA1000DBB03

There're some half a dozen or so small screws securing that frame to the door face. These screws must be removed. Then, the frame can be pried out by releasing the plastic snappers (with a flat screwdriver) while in the same time gently helping the frame to detach from these snappers' hold and the door face. It's a tidious, somewhat annoying task. The snappers may and will even likely break in the process, but aren't needed for the frame to be resecured to the door face after the handle is replaced. Note that the broken ends of the handle must be held with a pair of pliers or a flat screwdriver needs to be inserted bewteen each of them and the hole, or the ends will turn with the screws. This is because the metal screws' grip of the plastic handle broken ends is very strong and will otherwise won't get separated.Once the above is accomplished, reassembling the door is a brease.

P.S.: The dual end latch may interfere somewhat with the job and can be removed for the prtocess to be undertaken without it disturbing. It's easy to remove and replace that latch, including its spring.

Posted on May 12, 2009

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1 Answer

Our De Dietrich DME715X microwave oven is sparking from the ceiling - have tried a new wave guide cover but that did not work.


Some ovens have a tuning stub in the wave guide. If it has become loose or rusted, it could cause the problem. If that's the cause, you would have to transfer all of the oven's components to a new cavity. This is usually not done due to the cost, although I did do this once on an oven that was still under warranty.

Make sure the wave guide is clean inside.

Also check for rust near the wave guide cover. Re painting damaged areas might help.

Sparks fly, too, if the ovens contents do not contain enough water to absorb enough of the microwave energy. Leftover energy converts itself into electrical current in any conductive material (such as cavity panels).

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I'd check the door switches first. The primary and secondary ones must go into the closed position when the door is shut.

You might also have an open thermal cut out on the outside of the cavity. There is also one on the magnetron you could check, although it's les likely to cause this problem.

Avoid all high voltage components, as there's likely to be a 4000 volt charge on the high voltage capacitor. Unpleasant to touch, and it could be fatal.

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follow this step and fix it. A power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
God bless you

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This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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