Question about Microwave Ovens
Hi I have a De Dietrich microwave model is MN2523E21. Inside on top is a circular flexible 'cover' which I think is the Wave Guide Cover. Where it is screwed in the cover is perished and is now detached. I thought it would be easy to make some new holes then replace. However having unscrewed a couple of screws the nuts they went into seem to have been displaced so the screws have now got nothing to screw into. Help please!!!!!!!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Removing Old Built-In Microwave
You did not note your Make and Model. As there are many different types, all I can give you are basic directions.
First make sure the Power Cord is UN-PLUGGED from the wall.
1. Remove the Top Vent Grille Cover. There are screws holding this on, either Three you can see (one on each side and one in the center), or Open the Door and look for screws at the top of the Frame that go Up Into the grille.
2. Look in cabinet above unit for screws that hold unit up. Usually two (one on each side, front), can be more. Remove.
3. Look where Top Vent Grille Cover was removed. There should be a Long Screw or Screw-Type Lock at each( top) corner. These hold the unit tight on the Wall-Mount Plate. Remove. You should have HELP at this point as you will slide the unit forward until it comes clear of the Support Arms.
Posted on Feb 01, 2008
Try replacing the screws with larger ones. Maybe you ordered the wrong piece, if your microwave comes with a mica cover (A fine, square piece of mica) and you received a plastic one, you will need to get the right piece or adapt the one you received.
You can get the mica cover on any microwave service.
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
You have 3 choices to use on removing the safety screw(s) on the MW (microwave or nuker as I call them) cover.
1 - The screw(s) is/are usually a modified TORX T-20 or T-25 bit adapter. Sometimes you can very carefully use a standard T-20/25 bit adapter to get the screw loosened. Sometimes! If that doesn't work then you have option #2.
2 - If #1 doesn't work you can use a small flat blade screwdriver that has been modified with a slot cut into the center of the blade end to bypass the center pin. First find a narrow enough flat blade srewdriver that you don't care about anymore, and make sure it fits rather snugly inside the screw-head just for a loose fit. If the blade is a bit wider - no problem - it can be ground down to fit snugly. Next - using a dremel tool and diamond cutting wheel attachment (or similar) cut a slot into the end of the blade. Make sure that the screwdriver is going to bite the insides of that screw-head first though before wasting a perfectly good screwdriver. You will have to adjust by trial and error until you get the blade to fit perfectly the head of the safety screw. If the screws are really tight use a pair of vice grips to clamp the screwdriver blade for extra leverage.
If neither of these methods work for you or you can't modify a special tool then you will have to do the last option.
3 - Using an easy out of proper size drill out the center pin and then use the proper "easy out" to back out the screw. Discard that/those screw(s) and replace with regular phillips head screws after replacing the light bulb.
Hopefully you will be able to do this repair yourself? Otherwise if your neighbor is Tim the Toolman Taylor I'm sure he'll be able to give you the necessary hand to do it for you.
Hope this helps fix your dilema you are in.
One note here -
Make sure you unplug the nuker first and be VERY CAREFUL as to NOT TOUCH the HIGH VOLTAGE CAPACITOR inside. Otherwise you risk a chance of SEVERE HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK!!!!!!!!!
BE VERY CAREFUL....
Posted on Mar 07, 2008
SOURCE: GE Microwave is arcing inside
Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck to the inside of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.
The waveguide cover is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.
In some models it is the plastic ceiling.
It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!
The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.
If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.
Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.
If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced.
If you need more specific help, please reply back with your brand and full model number.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller, AS-EET
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
There're some half a dozen or so small screws securing that frame to the door face. These screws must be removed. Then, the frame can be pried out by releasing the plastic snappers (with a flat screwdriver) while in the same time gently helping the frame to detach from these snappers' hold and the door face. It's a tidious, somewhat annoying task. The snappers may and will even likely break in the process, but aren't needed for the frame to be resecured to the door face after the handle is replaced. Note that the broken ends of the handle must be held with a pair of pliers or a flat screwdriver needs to be inserted bewteen each of them and the hole, or the ends will turn with the screws. This is because the metal screws' grip of the plastic handle broken ends is very strong and will otherwise won't get separated.Once the above is accomplished, reassembling the door is a brease.
P.S.: The dual end latch may interfere somewhat with the job and can be removed for the prtocess to be undertaken without it disturbing. It's easy to remove and replace that latch, including its spring.
Posted on May 12, 2009
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