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Air bearing removal Mitutoyo B-231 CMM

Air bearing removal from the top beam. I need to replace the 3/16 hose that provides air to the bearings with out disassembling the top beam.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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the glass top replacemnt is a pretty straightfoward task, a matter of unscrewing one and repalcing it wiht anew one. after ordering new top its a matter of lookin g at eh new top to see which screws would need to be removed from old. hardest part about job will be youll need to do disconnect the downdraft from the venting ,and pull unit up from the counter inwhich it is installe.< not difficult but cumbersome and awkward to manuver. check abd verify full model and serail number and cal manufacture for correct part umber. may cast anywhere fom 200-400 dollars depending on model

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ball Bearing Replacement

when spinning , it is noisy. How to overcome it.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: ford festiva front wheel bearing worn out

I do have the manual and there are several on eBay all the time for Festivas, because I check there often for Festiva parts. They are often sold for about $20-$25 for the complete manual. You might want to try that. I have the manuals for Festiva, but I don't have a scanner, but I do have a digital camera that I could use to photograph it. I don't know if I can get your email address so that I can send the photos of the pages to you. Let me know.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

  • 80 Answers

SOURCE: How to replace main bearing in a Makita GA5000 5'' angle grinder

i used to grab the armature and tap the housing off with a rubber hammer...

try tapping in opposite corners every time....

when it does fall have a cushion ready on the bench or floor to catch it...

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

  • 472 Answers

SOURCE: Need to replace bearing on the pump/motor unit.


Posted on Oct 14, 2009

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1 Answer

2003 maxima rear spindle

The rear wheel bearing assembly/spindle CAN be replaced as a bolt-on unit. You should not need to replace the beam assembly. Unless the spindle is damaged or bent it should be okay as well. I will tell you from experience that you should buy top-quality bearings as most 1-year warranted auto part store units fail prematurely. Additionally, precise torque specifications for the spindle bolt is critical to bearing life. You cannot grunt-torque them and expect them to last. Use a calibrated torque wrench at the proper torque. I personally recommend Timken bearings. Just a suggestion.

Aug 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Steering column bearing

wow , no year, you do make this impossible.... to answer
a generic answer:
battery neg lug pulled first.
Defeat air bags (96 or newer)? guessing at air bag cut in date.... i am.
RTM read the manual on bag defeat ways....
let car site for 30min, so battery lug pull has its effect. (caps discharged)
then remove the steering wheel and not damage the air bag coil spring, Read the FSM on these very tricky details.'
remove combo switch, and outside plastics.
the bearing should be there.
the FSM is best.
but might get you to here, log in and look.
most books never cover bearing swap. only combo, or column or
tilt wheel repairs. but id look/

Dec 22, 2013 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Runs untill you try to remove a bolt

I would check my reversal valve and make sure the knob is on the number 5 on both sides first and check my air inlet for trash. Other then that I would tear it down and inspect the tool for any broken parts or grooved front and rear plates in the air motor. If it all looks good I would order a tune up kit with bearings and replace everything that they give you in the kit.
IR 231-TK3

Oct 29, 2012 | Ingersoll Rand 1/2" Super Duty Air Impact...

1 Answer

2007 toyota tacoma replace front wheel bearing prerunner

The other guys have never taken the wheel bearings out of a 2007 Tacoma! Remove the tire (duh)
Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line securing bracket
Un-clip the air sensor hose clip
Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the brake assembly on the back side
Remove the rotor from the wheel "spindle"- slides right off.
Unscrew the four metric bolts (maybe 17mm) holding the wheel housing to its mount (they cannot be removed from the assembly yet, see below).
That's right there is no normal wheel spindle with a big nut on the end of a threaded shaft in the middle!
The wheel mounting plate (with the 6 studs) is pressed into the bearing housing.
Get a replacement bearing assembly and take it and your old unit to a machine shop (unless you have a good press).
An easy job, just expensive- $140 for the bearing assembly.

Mar 27, 2012 | 2007 Toyota Tacoma

2 Answers

Hi, the fan of my laptop is very noisy..its very irritating. How can I solve this problem? Is there some remedy for this? Thanks...

Basic construction of a laptop cooling fan assembly:

The plastic fan is mounted in the middle to a Spindle. (Think small metal pole)
There is a small electric motor that spins the fan.

The spindle spins in bearings, or bushings.
Cheaper models use Bushings, better models use Bearings.

[ Bushing: A solid round chunk of bronze (Usually) with a hole in the middle. The spindle spins inside the hole. Also known as a Sleeve Bearing.
Bearings: Usually needle bearings in a cage. Less friction, longer life.



There is usually a bushing on the top of the spindle, and bottom of the spindle.
Or a bearing at the top, and bottom.

The bushings, or bearings can wear out over time.
This allows the small electric motor's armature to rub against the field windings, or the fan's blades to tip to one side, and rub against the surrounding cage. (Shroud)

How to know?
The laptop has to be opened up, and the fan physically checked out. There can be NO perceptible play from side to side. There is however a SMALL tolerance for up, and down.

It may be also that 'Gunk' has developed inside the cooling fan assembly.
['Gunk' = Dirt, dust, hair, food crumbs, etc ]

If too much Gunk has formed on one or two fan blades, the fan is tipped down to one side a little.
The result is the fan's blades hit the surrounding cage. (Shroud)

Solution is to try to clean the air intake duct, and the fan, with a can of compressed air.
Laptop off, ALL power removed. [ AC adapter (Charger) and Battery]

Laptop is held up on one side, (Fan grille opening down towards the table), on a table with one hand. (Towel on table to keep from scratching laptop, or table)

Break the lock tab off of the can of compressed air for computers.
Insert the plastic straw provided into the can of air's nozzle.

Bring the plastic straw close to the grille opening at the top, on one side.
Spray air across the grille at the top.

{Spray air as a professional paint sprayer would spray paint.
Squeeze the trigger in all the way when you start, let go of the trigger as you reach the other side. Refrain from tilting the can. Do not swing the can in an arc when using it.
Keep the can level, and parallel to the grille opening when spraying air}

Now drop down a space, and spray air again. Keep dropping down in rows, and spraying across until you have reached the bottom of the air intake's grille opening.

[When using the can of compressed air it will eventually slow down in pressure.
This is because the air is coming out so fast, that the moisture in the surrounding air freezes.
This can be noted by the can is cold, and may have frost on it.

Let the can sit, and warm up for a while. Then it can be used again ]

Refrain from spinning the fan too fast. The fan's bearings, (Or bushings), are only designed to spin so fast.
Spinning the fan faster than it was designed for can lead to premature failure of the fan's bearings.

{The cooling fan is a mechanical part. Eventually the bearings wear out. Spin the fan too fast, and you will speed this process up. Instead of lasting for years, the bearings may go out instantly, or within, weeks, or months. Premature failure }

Use Short Bursts of air at the fan. Squeeze the trigger in all the way, then let go quickly.

You may have damaged fan bearings already. This would require replacing the cooling fan assembly.
What is the model number of the Asus laptop?
Post in a Comment.


Sep 05, 2011 | ASUS Computers & Internet

1 Answer

The motor inside the air handler is making noise we shut it off my husband spray some w lubricant and works and after awhile starts making noise again

The bearings are sealed and if you can spray WD 40 on them and get them to stop making noise the bearings re bad, you could use a needle gun to put synthetic grease into the bearings but the best bet is just replace the bearings. You can get bearings at King Bearings for about $20.00 for a set and are not hard to change. otherwise you will have to replace the motor and it runs about $195.00 dollars.If you need help on replacing the bearings just ask and I can tell you how to remove them.

Feb 05, 2010 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

2 Answers

I have an Oreck air purifier model (air 4000). The power light is on but the fan will not turn unless I put it on high speed and manually push the fan to give it a jump start for it to start running but...

I tried that solution and it did not work due to the worn bushing. I went on line to CSH incorporated and ordered #534 Open Ventilation Fan & Blower Duty motor. The motor is a ball bearing motor rather than bushing, and is an exact replacement for the Fasco motor on the original. The repair is easy and a cheap repair at cost of about $67 dollars for the motor plus shipping. The unit now works great again.

Oct 30, 2009 | Oreck Console Air Purifier

1 Answer

Air comp bad crankshaft and rods need to remove and replace

What type of air compressor do you have?
Is it a single motor\pump combination is the pump and motor separated by a fly wheel? If it's the first one don't waste your time or your money. Hard to find parts hardier to justify the money if you do.
If it's the second then you should make sure you can get a rebuild kit and replacement parts. If you haven't already.
Assuming you have anyone of the more common pump brands like Dayton, Champion, Ingersoll Rand.
Dis-assembly should start with the top end. Remove the head and valve plate then the cylinder head bolts and cylinder head. Remove the wrist pin\pins and piston\pistons. Next remove the lower rod end caps and pull them out taking care not too nick the crank bearing journals. Remove the front crank cover and and (if it has one) the rear bearing cap\plug. You should be able to remove the crank through the front access. You may need to tap the back end of the crank clear or the rear bearing.
The bearings will probably need to be pressed out.
Unless you have a pump that is considered non serviceable or is an oddity this should do it.
If your pumps layout differs from the norm or you just need more specific information please let me know. Just include the make and model and I'll be glad to help you out. Good luck.

Aug 25, 2009 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Noisey during spin

yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

May 07, 2009 | LG WD-16115FD Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Change Bearings for HotPoint WMA62N

Hi, I also have the bearing problem on a hotpoint wma and have just stated the repair job. I have found the following on different forums, so maybe it might help others. You do need to remove the drum and there are two different sizes of bearings 30mm and 35mm. To find the size you need you have to get to the bearings and measure them.
. Ok,Hotpoint wma series drum bearing failure.Firstly very common problem since i work on these things every day-i think there is a design fault-nothing new in this trade!What follows is

the sequence of problems in changing the drum bearings:If the machine has been thrashed into oblivion just changing the oilseal/bearings will have you back to square one within a

couple of months since you would`ve damaged the drum shaft as the bigger bearing of the 2 goes into shapnell mode!So you`d best change the drum shaft(in the trade known as the

spider) however this thing is aluminium usually held onto the the drum via torx headed screws either in steel or soft Al2 also-forget it as your not going to get these out unless your mega

lucky,what we do at work is to replace the whole tank/drum/bearing assembly which comes with a new element and belt ie the whole tank unit,the trade price of this part is less than

£100.00-you can draw your own conclusions as to the retail price as you wish.If you haven`t thrashed the machine you can get away with replacing just the bearings or easier still the rear

half of the tank(trade price 30.00+vat) in which the bearings are already fitted via the factory and reuse the existing spider/drum shaft so long as it isn`t damaged by disintergrated bearing

shapnell.I hope this clears up this problem for you.Please note that this machine`s filter which is at the rear doubles up as the air trap-the oval section 8" long semi transpatent plastic tube

thing-the part that allows the water to compress the air so turning off the level of fill at the right level via the round swt behind the soap dispenser-called the pressure swt-if the filter gets

bunged up the machine o/fills and either overfills or overfills and floods or tries to spin with aload of water still inside the drum or perhaps no spin at all.Hope this helps someone.


The drum comes out through the front on this one. Take off kick plate and remove screws holding front panel to frame. Take out soap drawer & remove screws behind it. Take off band

holding door seal & peel seal back. Remove 2 screws holding door lock &push lock through. Pull control panel forward at left side & slide to right to remove being careful with board &
wiring. Remove screws holding top end of front then lift slightly &remove front. Remove back panel & take wiring off heating element & pump. Disconnect the pump hose at the drum end,

disconnect the hose from the soap dispenser, note that wiring is fastened to the drum at several points and will need to be disconnected. Remove panel from behind control board then

carefully move everything away from the front of the machine, the drum can now be lifted clear.

Forgot to mention unplugging motor but common sense will prevail.

Mar 11, 2009 | Hotpoint WMA64 Front Load Washer

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