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There is no heating or hot water running in my building-its oil fuelled)I have a firebird 180 boiler system and thought the ignition might have gone out but when I press the button nothing is fireing up-haven't a clue what to do!

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Unplug it and restart it. Did you check your oil tank level? Are you out?

Posted on May 15, 2010

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Boiler won't ignite for hot water unless heating is on.


If this is in a RV the propane monitoring valve may require more gas flow to turn on than the water heater requires. A central heating system requires substantial gas flow so when the monitoring valve opens to fire the central heating, there is enough gas flow to also fire the water heater.

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Why the hot water temperature couldn't reach the set temperature (130 degree) in Amtrol WHS80Z indirect water heater?


I have a couple of thoughts. You may have air in the boiler water circuit at the loop that feeds the tank. You'll have to find the vent in the loop to get it out. Second, the automatic valve that opens for hot water may not be opening fully. Have you felt both the boiler water lines that go in and out of the tank? If the water going in is hot and the line out is very cold you have very little boiler water going through the loop. Make sure the isolation valves on the loop are open. Is your boiler full of water? If the boiler loop lines are hot going in and coming out, the tank is full of rust or debris and no water can get to the fins on the internal tubing to pick up heat. If that's the case there is no repair and its time to get a new tank. Hope this helps good luck.

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Wickes 102 combi boiler constantly loosing water pressure


It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

Feb 02, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I need a diagram for an indirect hot water system heated by a solid fuel boiler and an oil boiler


If you are using more than one heat source you will have 1 more pump than the heat source pumps Main pump = SYSTEM pump pumps through the indirect hot water system and back into itself. This is the system loop. The other two boilers tee into this loop upstream of the indirect tank, downstream of the SYSTEM pump. The cold water return to each boiler tees into the system loop next to and upstream of where the hot water for that boiler tees into the system the loop. The oil boiler will have its own pump on its return line from the sytem loop and the solid fuel boiler will have its own pump. When any boiler fires, it turns on its own pump AND the system pump. If you want a drawing email me -pipesster@gmail.com send a fax number and I'll fax you a drawing.

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1 Answer

Radiator heats up when running a shower.


Your boiler is overdue for a service.

Combi boilers are unlike regular boilers in that they have quite a few moving parts, it's vital that these are serviced annually if you want the boiler to remain reliable and to avoid expensive failures.

In your case, the diverter valve has most likely failed. Normally, when the heating is on this senses when there's a demand for hot water and temporarily diverts the primary hot water circuit to feed the domestic hot water heat exchanger. When the demand for hot water ceases the primary hot water circuit is diverted back to the central heating heat exchanger. The valve has a number of moving parts including a rubber diaphragm which can wear out and split and moving shafts which can seize.

When the valve fails it can leak and also can divert hot water to the central heating heat exchanger when hot water is used. The reason that only the highest radiators in the system are affected is probably because the failed valve does not necessarily cause the central heating pump to activate and circulate the hot water throughout the system (it does on some boilers though). If hot water is introduced into a cold heating system it will rise via convection to the highest points in the system like an old fashioned gravity circulation system which was unpumped.

Call a heating engineer out as soon as possible; I'm not going to advise how to do the repair yourself as gas appliances MUST be serviced by qualified persons only for reasons of safety. If you're lucky then the valve simply needs cleaning up and a few new diaphragms plus other minor seals and rings. If it's gone too far then the valve and possibly the manifold it's attached to will need to be replaced.

In the UK the part alone typically costs between £100 to £200 depending on whether it's just the valve or the manifold as well. The diaphragm kit typically costs up to around £15 and is routinely fitted when the boiler is annually serviced, and a new valve will already have new diaphragms fitted. For a routine service expect to pay for up to two hours labour (many can be done in one hour), but if the valve/manifold have failed it will be longer as one failure often causes other parts to need further inspection/repair.

I hope that I've helped you today, if so please return the favour by rating my answer.

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Central heating and hot water have suddenly stopped working


not an engineer but maybe a heating compant,, it sounds like you have a relay that has gone bad, you have what we call a winter summer system your domestic water comes from a tank inside the boiler, you might want to think about splitting the system to save you some money in the long run, seperate the water heater from the boiler so you only heat up in the winter, right now you are heating the system that heats your house to get 30 or 40 gals of domestic hot water, it would cost you less by seperating them

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Fan runs continuously


the air pressure which does not controll the fan it is a safe guard for the gas/oil burner to ignite nowing that the fan is running ( air switch normaly negative /positive prssure n/o,n/c circuits. it could be that your boiler is designed for a cant think of techinacal name but when in centre of house/factory and has 1 or more boilers connected to flue etc the fans run when only power to boiler is on , non vented system ? it could be a simple link to remove in controll panel i would phone technical help for manufacture ?

Jan 31, 2009 | Water Heaters

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